dismantling front fork

[jmrivet]

hi
i need to strip my whole front end of my XT600 2000 model to remove the two fork bearings as they are shot. can anyone advise on the complexity of the job and how to tackle this. i have the workshop manual but its not of great help.

thanks in advance

[cyberzar]

The only problem is how to remove lower bearings. Easiest way is break the moving parts, and for the conic part that remains on steering tube, carefully use a dremel to cut it. Do not try with scalpel\screwdriver and hammer, does not work. With a dremel you can also save the lower seal, in case you bought only the bearings and you miss the seal.

To mount the new one it's easy: put the steering tube in the freezer, leave there for a few hours, make the new bearings hot, some grease on the tube, seal, bearings on.

If you get a tube a little bigger than steering to help the new bearings going in, will be easier.

sorry for my bad english, hope it's enough to understand.

[jmrivet]

many thanks for your quick reply and pls dont apologise for english cause i understand what you said very well - can you please only tell me what is a "dremel" ?

many thanks

[Nigel Marx]

A dremel is a small rotary power tool, which you can use like a mini-cutter. I have one of these:
Variable Speed MultiPro Rotary Tool / Model: Variable Speed MultiPro
It's my favourite tool in the shed.

Another way, if you have access to an electric welder, is to run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing outer (is that an oxymoron??). This will firstly cause the metal ring to heat up and then contract, to smaller than original and drop out. I have done this many times.

Regards

Nigel in NZ

[jmrivet]

Thanks Nigel

Any idea how much time it will take me to strip the whole front? and anything particular i should be aware of (anything difficult to do?)

Many thanks

Kind Regards

JMR

[bacardi23]

Hi... it's easy to take the whole front end of the bike....takes about 35min... if you have a friend willing to help, even better...

If you want to be neat..take the seat, fuel tank and air scoops out, headlight and front fender, speedometer and tachometer and disconnect the wiring harness from the front electrics

you can put the bike on a high stand so you can lower the rear wheel (to elevate the front) and that you can balance the bike on after you take the front end out...

To take the front end out, after you take the top clamp out, you'll need a hammer and a piece of metal tube so you can unscrew a "weird shape nut" that locks the bottom yoke axle on the top of the frame hole....(you'll see what it is)....

about the rest "how to" you can do how Nigel Marx said....

Good luck
Vando

[Nigel Marx]

2-4 hours if you have everything you need for the job (parts and tools). Repack even the new bearings with grease, if they are not sealed. I pick out the seals and repack them anyway, and put the seals back on. I use a seal pick, which is like a dentists probe but you can probably find something to do the job.

Watch out for over or under tightening of the steering head when you re-assemble. It's best to slightly (very slightly! It may even be well less than 1/8th of a turn) over-tighten so you feel the head bind a little as you move it though it's full travel left to right. Then you know to back it off until it is completely free, but has no slop. Over-tightening also makes the bearing seat properly so it doesn't loosen up on the first ride. Leaving slightly over-tight will make the bike "wander" as you ride, which, if the bearings are shot now is probably what is happening as well. It will also make the bearings wear faster. Under-tight will make the front end "chatter" or clunk under braking.

Do you know how to check for under or over tight? See the reference to binding above for over-tight. To check for under-tight, prop the bike up so the front is off the ground and grab the fork legs at the bottom. Standing in front of the bike, pull the fork legs carefully back and forwards. There should be no play. If there is play (slop or movement) see if it's at the point were the fork leg and slider meet (fork bushes inside the sliders are worn, not common). If it's not there, then is must be at the top in the bearings. Tighten a little at a time and check to see if the play reduces.

Sometimes the amount of play also reduces when you do up the big locking nut, making it over-tight when you think you have got it right. In this case, leave the bearing very slightly loose. The final nip-up of the big lock nut will take up the last of the slack.

It sounds complicated, but it's all pretty logical once you get into it. An extra 10 minutes getting the tension right can double the life of your steering head bearings. Checking the bearings with the front off the ground is something I do every 3-4,000km. They also need to be re-greased. It's a job that should be done every 15,000km or so to get the best life from the bearings.

Feel free to ask me for help, via here of PM.

Kind regards

Nigel in NZ

[bacardi23]

I said 35min just to take the forks out of the frame that's how much time I toke when I toke the forks out of the frame (all by myself tho)....

Vando

[jmrivet]

many thanks guys

i indeed stripped the whole lot and took me one hour. now i need to find new bearings!!

anyone can advise on line shop to buy the parts - in Europe preferably?

thanks in advance

[cyberzar]

eBay Store - Pyramid Parts Worldwide: Honda Fork Oil Seals, Kawasaki Fork Oil Seals, Honda Wheel Bearings

bought from them in USA, (cheaper) but they have shops in uk too, they delivered me from UK indeed. I bought fork seals and wipers, but they have bearings too.