I've just spent 6 weeks in Iran after having ridden through India and Pakistan. During my time in various parts of the country I saw many Iranian women in brightly coloured headscarves (including red), as well as wearing jeans and less formal attire. Black is definitely not a requirement and only about 1/3 of the women we saw wore the hijab. Scarves, especially on young women were often way back on their heads with plenty of hair showing. Keep in mind that a good number of Iranians like elsewhere are not practicing moslems and therefore it was not uncommon for men to greet women with a handshake.

My wife for instance was frequently hugged, (might have to do with our age who knows), and we always felt comfortable. She was often on her own and had no problems. People treated us with respect and we did the same. We were invited into many Iranian homes, enjoyed wonderful hospitality and kindness and made many friends. Yes, there are certain cultural differences but they're not always as formal as some would have you believe. Follow your instincts, they're rarely wrong. If something doesn't feel right then it probably isn't.

I would recommend wearing a headscarf under your helmet only for the reason that it's easier than trying to put it on quickly when you remove your helmet if there's a crowd around you, and a foreigner on a bike does attract interest. Both my wife and I were approached constantly in the street by people wanting to know where we were from, what did we think of the country and offering help if we needed it. Yes, we were frequently stared at, but more in a curious way and most people returned a smile or offered a friendly greeting. Enjoy Iran, it's a beautiful country with wonderful people.

Ron