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Post By yahuacua

27 Jan 2014
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Esperance, WA
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Depending on distance you want to cover, I'd consider the following as well (I take it anyway)
- Spare front sprocket- maybe a 15 tooth, so you can swap them out when the going gets tough.
- Spare set of rear brake shoes (I ride on the back brake a lot and once had to do almost 3000km without it because I couldn't find brake shoes anywhere. And when in rough, I use it even more/harder)
On the fuel pump (if you haven't replaced it yet)- I found when mine conked, I could get it to take me home, but I had to open it u and clean the contact breakers every few hundred km's
I got about the same fuel consumption as you, but found it has a lot to do with rpm. If I keep the bike around 100km/h on the open (fully loaded) or keep the tacho under 3000rpm and use <1/4 throttle, I get 400km+. Just out of interest, I had an 1100GS and it was more economical to run on-road than the AT, but when going off-road, the GS's fuel consumption would drop to 15km/l, whilst the AT's consumption would get better and I'd easily get close to 20km/l.
Also- I found a 150 rear tyre fits on the AT very well- some of the makes (like Micheline Desert) tends to scrape against the original plastic chain guard a little, but this is not an issue. You get much better mileage out of the 150, but most importantly, the 130's (knobbys) are not rated for the load of a fully loaded AT and you get thread separation due to the carcass overheating at speed on sealed roads. The 150's are much more expensive than 130's, but there is a larger range and they're made for the big beamers, so can handle the AT very easily. I find it very difficult to get 140's, and when I do, it costs the same as the 150, so I've just switched.
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
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What others say about HU...
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Lots more comments here!

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