Travel report on Iraqi Kurdistan from Turkey
Report on visiting Iraqi Kurdistan Region in September 2021 on a motorbike
Dutch nationality, regulations may vary depending on Nationality.
The Turkish – Iraqi border crossing is named ‘ Ibrahim Khalil’ near Turkish town Cizre. I crossed the border on Sunday, not busy. Do not know for weekdays.
Strange event: official at Turkish side warned me that other side would not accept motorbikes, but let me through anyway and did the paperwork. All in a friendly matter.
After bridge over river arrival Kurdish/Iraqi soil.
Three steps are to be made:
1 - Immigration and visa
2 – custom and vehicle paperwork
3 – checkpoint to see if nrs one and two are done
Step 1 immigration:
first had to show my COVID vaccination at a outside ticket booth. Seems to be okay but did not get any paper of otherwise approval.
Immigration formalities take place in large glass building with ticket booths. Locals showed/pushed me in the right line.
Show passport and pay 100.000 (Hundred thousand)Iraqi Dinar (approx. EUR 65/USD 70)
I did not have local currency and helpfully I was referred to ‘ kafetaria’ in same building tot change money. Got Visa and got checked outside before continue with motorcycle to next station for customs further on the terrain.
Step 2: Customs
This is where I got lost and accidently bypassed the customs building. The ‘ final check’ gate send me back and some confusion later I found the office where some guys take details including vehicle ID number (frame number) on a paper. In another building they make translation form in Arabic/Kurdish of the vehicle details. The one to be showed if asked for in Kurdistan. With that translation form I could get the demanded paper for
Step 3: the ‘ final check’ if you've done everything a supposed.
The whole procedure was a bit chaotic for me, but friendly and very forgiving. Took between 1-2 hours.
Later I realized that no one asked for insurance. My greens card is not valid in Iraq. Did not see an insurance office at border but also had no attention for that. Would not recommend to drive without insurance. Do as I say don’t do as I do.
Leaving Kurdistan into Turkey.
On Iraqi side I had to have two identical ‘ passenger lists’ , one for both sides. A policeman helped me to get them.
I had to write licence plate and name and passport number. Then visit custom and immigration to stamp you out. On Turkish side some confusion about which order of ticket booth to visit for immigration and custom but helpful staff will give directions as soon the see I didn’t know what to do
In Kurdistan.
Checkpoints
Globally every 40 kilometre there is a military checkpoint of the Peshmerga. Half of the encounters they want to see my passport. Always in a friendly atmosphere.
I guess they also prevent you from accidently leave the Kurdistan controlled region in case of an navigational error. My navigation system does not discriminate between the two entities. Suggested routes my lead through Iraqi Iraq.
Money
No ATM seen. I saw a exchange bureau along the road and did change EURO’s . Did not see much of these exchange bureau’s. One time I asked in a shop and they referred to a grocery store where they could change. It was close to the border, don’t know for more inland situation. Kurdistan is not expensive
Fuel
Filling stations widely available but most near city’s. In rural areas sometimes very basic pump systems without other facilities.
Roads
In the southern lowlands construction of modern motorways is and has been successful in connecting major city’s. From Zakho – Duhok – Arbil – Suleimaniya is mostly smooth new asphalt all the way.
The northern / eastern parts are mountainous and roads vary in quality from moderate tot good for main connecting roads.
Pay attention for speedbumps! They are present in villages where you can expect them, they are also in places I didn’t expect them and often they are not marked and hardly visible. Some are really nasty. And therefore effective.
General: people are friendly and willing to assist, seem to be pleased by tourists visiting Kurdistan. I did not encounter any problems with authorities. I felt very welcome.
Hope it helps,
Cheers,
Guido
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