Crossing Pakistan, my experience, Nov 2013

[Infinite Road]

Crossing Pakistan by Motorcycle

A good place to start is Akbahr Tourist Guesthouse in Bam. (~10$, negotiate it). He speaks well English and is very friendly. Coordinates: 29.09037, 58.36262.

I saw in the registration books, that around 30 People crossing Pakistan in a month. If you wait in Bam a couple of days, I’m sure you will find other traveller for crossing.

Bam to Mir Javeh
About 460 km on good roads (up to 120 km/h possible). Leave Bam early, so you have the chance to cross the border at the same day. The last 40km on Iran side is with an escort (you don’t have to pay the escort), but the escort will keep you passport and return it after the border process. The escort will show you a hotel in Mir Javeh if necessary. The Iran police provide you an officer who guides you through the border. Time for border processing on Iran side is around 2 hours. On Pakistan side you need also around 2 hours. The Pakistan police (Levis Force) will not let you go after 14:00 and you have to stay at the police station. The police will bring you food or guide you to the marked. There is also no need to pay money to the police, but they try to get some from you. Stay in a hotel is also possible (~15$, simple rooms, no shower, no parking).
Change money is in the border area possible.

Taftan to Quetta
First I will explain how the police work. The Police is responsible for you safety and will get a lot of trouble if something happen with you. The easiest way for the police are to bring you as soon as possible out from their responsible area. They don’t care about where is the best place to stay, they want to get rid of you just as soon as possible. So you have to plan by yourself and insist if necessary.
The whole way from Taftan to Quetta you’ll be escorted. Escort changes are most of time quick and also the registration process at the checkpoints. You are faster if you know you passport and visa number from memory (if you don’t know, write whatever you want. Nobody will check it).
Accommodations are in Dalbandin and Nushki possible, but not outside of these cities.
Distance: ~660 km on most good and ~20 km very shitty roads. Total 18 Registrations and escort changes! To do it in one day is not possible.

Quetta
To stay in Quetta Bloom Star Hotel is ok (~10$, with shower and parking). Be careful if eat or drink in the hotel. It’s very expensive. You have to pay all ordered s even if you drink it or not. There are a couple of small restaurants around the hotel. The hotel owner tell you it’s not allowed to leave the hotel after 18:00 (I know him primarily as a businessman of money making).
To leave the city a NOC (No Objection Certificate) is needed. The hotel owner will call you an escort who know the way to the Ministry. The NOC is exposed for the next day and you have to stay one day more. You don’t have to pay for the NOC. Finally no one checked the NOC. If someone know is it really necessary, please let me know. Time you need is around 3-4 hours to get it.

Quetta – Sukkur – Multan – Lahore
You'll be escorted to the border of Baluchistan, but after you are still not free. It’s not allowed to stay in all hotels. The police feel still responsible and will bring you in a ‘safe’ and expensive hotel. But you can say to the police, you don’t have as much money and he have to look for a cheap hotel, and they do!

Please feel free to ask me for more detailed information’s: bigdream@infiniteroad.ch
You can send me also your experience and I’ll include it.

Good luck, Chris

[Criptodrago]

Hi Chris!

Thank you very much for the description about your route to Pakistan. We are a spanish couple that are going to travel from Spain to Vietnam crossing Iran and Pakistan. This information is very important, thanks again!!

Best Regards,
Javi and Diana

[nacho_ds]

Hi Chris.
I coudn't contact you through the mail you posted. Can you give me an alternative one??
thank you

[saliadarunavuelta]

Yeah, this was basically the same experience I had.
I'd say it's extremely easy and straightforward if you follow THEIR rules. Be polite, maintain a low-profile, and the people of Pakistan will amaze you. They are truly among the most generous people on earth.

Don't be scared about what you hear in the news.

[Mogmog]

hi,
we tried to cross Pakistan from India to Iran.
We are traveling with an 4x4 Truck. we could enter Quetta. but there it was not possible to get an NOC for the road from Quetta to Taftan. After two day`s sitting in the Home Office Department we decided to go back to india.
We think, because of the security situation it will not be possible to get an NOC in Quetta in the next days? weeks? ...?

So if anybody is planing a trip from India to Iran, it is better to call the Home-Office Department in Quetta first. Tesl: 0092 (0) 81-9201878

[danielsprague]

Originally Posted by Mogmog

hi,
we tried to cross Pakistan from India to Iran.
We are traveling with an 4x4 Truck. we could enter Quetta. but there it was not possible to get an NOC for the road from Quetta to Taftan. After two day`s sitting in the Home Office Department we decided to go back to india.
We think, because of the security situation it will not be possible to get an NOC in Quetta in the next days? weeks? ...?

So if anybody is planing a trip from India to Iran, it is better to call the Home-Office Department in Quetta first. Tesl: 0092 (0) 81-9201878

Sorry to hear that. It looks like the Pakistanis have formally closed the Asian Overland Trail!! There are ways around this however, using back roads into Baluchistan to reach Nushki...

[Mark_Sassafras]

Originally Posted by saliadarunavuelta

Yeah, this was basically the same experience I had.
I'd say it's extremely easy and straightforward if you follow THEIR rules. Be polite, maintain a low-profile, and the people of Pakistan will amaze you. They are truly among the most generous people on earth.

Don't be scared about what you hear in the news.

I agree, a most friendly and helpful people. I think Chris gives an accurate picture of travelling in Baluchistan and Iran, although I was travelling east to west. Times change, but in 2010 I had an escort from Sukker to Bam.
In 2010 I was told that I could not access cash in Iran, I don't know if that is still the case, so I cashed up with rupee in Quetta and exchanged it at the border. Just check the exchange rate before hand so you know the rate.
There are moves afoot to open another border crossing to the south near Pishin, so that is something to watch. I really want to ride the Makran.
Cheers,
Mark.

[motokoerier]

Hello
Shared the same expierience a week before Chris
One thing comes in mind , when you change money , bring dollars instead of eur, you get a much better exchange rate
Have fun

Verstuurd vanaf mijn GT-I9505 met Tapatalk

[TJM]

hi guys!

i am planning to go back to Spain from Nepal on a motorbike! Have read all your comments and I cannot wait to start! My route would be India, Pakistan, Iran,Turkey, Greece, Italy and France!

I am still in the beginning of everything and I am still deciding on what motorbike using, and have some starting questions.. hope you can help me!

Since I am a bit low on budget I was thinking on getting a Yamaha RX 135cc that a club in Nepal would help me preparing (Hearts & Tears MC | Nepal Motorcycle Tours | Royal Enfield Tours). I was wondering if there are enough roads which i can safely ride without needing to use a highway, since i am interested in a "slow" trip... moreover, do you know if, in need, it is possible to use a 135cc in Highways in India Pakistan Iran or Turkey?

Another concern is crossing Pakistan. I have heard all kinds of things, but it seems that from your experience there is no need to worry? What would you recommend for safely crossing it?
I've heard that some people put the bike on a truck or on a train, do you think it is necessary and know where i can find some info?

These are the 2 main issues that concern me before starting with everything! hope you can help me!

Merry Christmas and congrats for your trips!

[Infinite Road]

Hi TJM
2 good questions!
For the motorbike maybe I cannot help much. 135cc is not very much and you will drive the bike always on the limit (maybe above). I expect you carry also a lot of luggage and the frame of a small bike is usually not very strong. Consider also how you get spare parts in other countries.

For sure there are enough road for a slow traveler. BTW not the road makes the travel interesting ... ;-)

For the second question, it's important that you decide for yourself. You are responsible for yourself. Don't trust if someone say "yes, sure Pakistan is safe". If you do not feel safe, take the train or ship the bike by boat to Iran (via Dubai it's possible). If you think yes I can do it, collect information's from other travelers to have a good plan to cross Pakistan. I felt basically better in a convoy and you will find other travelers by searching one on the HUBB.

Please feel free to contact me for more information's -> bigdream@infiniteroad.ch

Have fun
Chris

[timpel]

Most of the people putting bikes on trains did not do so by choice, you are forced to do that by the police, if they think it is unsafe to travel over the road.

But it's hard to say, security issues change day by day... We had a very good time in Pakistan.
I would say, get your Pakistani visa, and make your decision when you are in India. Be reminded that you cannot get your pakistan visa while you're travelling!

Have fun, it's a great trip.

About the bike, I think 135cc is not much, but people do these trips on bicycles as well, so there's plenty of roads where you can ride. In most of the countries you will visit, EVERYone drives a 80 or 110cc little motorbike, and they are able to carry a cow on the back of it...

On the other hand, petrol in these countries is very cheap! What will your millage be on your 135cc?

To give you a idea, my bike was a 650. My average was 1 Liter to 18.5 km. I drove together with a guy on a 250cc, his bike would do roughly the same if we drove around 100km/h.

Some stats

Nepal
658 km - 40 L - € 45
India
1154 km - 63 L - € 58
Pakistan
4560 km - 234 L - € 183
Iran
3837 km - 213 L - € 65 (!)
Turkije
2347 km - 127 L - € 208 (!)
Griekenland
830 km - 50 L - €175
Italië
1000 km -52 L - €78
Zwitserland
300 km - 15 L - €20
Frankrijk - Luxemburg - Belgie - Nederland
813 km - 45 L - € 60

Check my website there's more...

[Omie]

Hi TJM,
So you are planning a trip on the legendary Yamaha King; Rx135, fabulous. I have always admired this pocket rocket and love its acceleration and delivery of power which can keep up or outrun much bigger displacement bikes. It certainly is a treat to ride.

Despite my admiration for the bike, i have to admit that because it is 2 stroke it isnt as reliable as the 4 strokers. 2 strokers are powerful but not fuel efficent and Rx is a guzzler for its size. I would recommend that if you want to travel on a small bike buy a Honda CG125 or Yama YBR125 or Suzuki GS 125/150. They are more reliable, fuel efficient with easy availability of spares and experts along your way.

As regards Pakistan; its wonderful but comes with a pinch of salt. Just a reminder that 180 million people like me are living here and raising there children pretty decently.
If you come to Pakistan do give me a call and we can have tea together.

Cheers Omar