Hi Sarah,
To the best of my knowledge it is not possible to purchase a Kazakh visa at the border. We're applying here in Canada for our Kazakh visas and for a single entry tourist visa a letter of invitation is not required. We do need to have a letter of introduction which is basically a cover letter for the visa application that gives some details on our trip.
China also does not give visas at the border and also doesn't require a letter of invitation. We are going to obtain that here in Canada as well. Yes, to operate private vehicle in China you need to have a guide with you at all times. As motorcyclists this can get quite expensive since the guide needs a car to ride around in that you have to rent. You may also need to have a driver for the car. And then you pay the food and accommodation for both of them too. What most people do is hook up with a group to spread the costs around. If you do a bit of digging on the HUBB you'll see quite a few posts of people arranging such groups.
We are sharing a trip from Mongolia to Beijing, Xi'an and Shanghai with a British couple in a car in September. Then next Spring we're thinking of riding from Nepal through Tibet to Kyrgyzstan with another group.
Have fun planning!
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Ekke Kok
'84 R100RT 141,000 km (Dad's!)
'89 R100GS 250,000 km (and ready for another continent)
'07 R1200GS Adventure 100,000 km (just finished Circumnavigating Asia)
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www.ekke-audrey.ca
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