Hi,

I got back from Zanzibar on 9 July 2016 after bringing my bike (Africa Twin) over to the Islands with the twice weekly Azam Sealink RORO ferry. The reason I brought the bike was to go from Dar Es Salaam to Unguja on to Pemba and catch a ferry to Tanga on the mainland without backtracking to Dar. As it turned out I had to go back to Dar anyway. There is a “regular” RORO ferry between Mkoani (Pemba) and Tanga leaving Mkoani every Sunday but the Sunday I was going the ferry was cancelled due to too few passengers/cargo. There are also unscheduled Dhows crossing from Wete (northern Pemba) to Tanga that, with some loading effort, can take a large motorbike. I was quoted 200 000 TZS (100 USD) for the bike alone before negotiations.

It was costly to bring the bike and somewhat bureaucratic. Unguja Island is not biking country as the roads are flat, straight and rather uninteresting, almost never with the sea in sight. The only reason for bringing or renting a bike is as a form of transport. Pemba Island on the other hand is very beautiful with hilly and curvy roads with lots of foliage and rice paddies, splendid biking country and a lot less developed.

The Azam Sealink leaves Dar Es Salaam on Tuesday and Friday evenings making the crossing to Zanzibar City overnight. There are three costs: Passenger 35 USD, Motorcycle 80 USD, port tax 20 USD. The latter two may vary depending on who you ask. On the way back I paid less. The passenger ticket can be bought separately and the motorcycle fare and port tax can be paid when arriving at the port (preferable). Motorcycle registration document and passport are required. There is also a port tax in Zanzibar City of 10 000 TZS (5 USD) that must be paid both on arrival and departure. You also get a stamp in your passport at immigrations.

Everyone driving a vehicle in Zanzibar must have a special Zanzibar Driving Permit issued by Department of Transport and Licensing in Zanzibar City (S6° 10.687' E39° 13.367'). It cost 15 000 TZS (7 USD) for one month and is valid on both Unguja and Pemba. I was unaware of this and the police gave me a hard time at a checkpoint. An international driving license is not enough. I was specifically shown this in the book of law by the police. There was also talk about court and jail if I didn’t pay the penalty. Bullcrap! I was let go after half an hour without paying any fine promising to go straight to the DTL.

The Azam Sealink continues from Zanzibar Town (Unguja) to Mkoani (Pemba) on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. I paid 35 USD for the passenger ticket, 100 000 TZS (50 USD) for the bike and of cause the 10 000 TZS for the port tax. Port tax in Mkoani is only 3000 TZS (2 USD).

The Azam Sealink leaves Mkoani for Zanzibar City on Thursday and Sunday mornings, continuing on to Dar Es Salaam the same night. I Paid 35 + 35 USD passenger fare 100 000 + 100 000 TZS for the bike, 3000 in Mkoani port tax + 22 000 TZS in Dar ES Salaam port tax.

In total I paid 170 USD for bringing the bike Dar - Zanzibar City return trip, 110 USD Zanzibar City – Pemba return trip, plus 7 USD for the Zanzibar driving permit. For myself I paid 35 USD for each of the four ferry passages.

There you go. Don’t bring the bike.

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/Anders Bråhn
www.voodoochile.se