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I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by Ulrike Hahnel,
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Lagune Route, Bolivia



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  #1  
Old 10 Jan 2018
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Botswana: exploring on 2 wheels - recommendations and tips

Hi,


I am on the early planning stage of a trip round Southern Africa.
Anyone has been to Botswana on 2 wheels, recently?

The highlights seem to be all the national parks, but bikes are not allowed, apparently.

Any easy way to get in, without spending $$$$? I would really like to visit some of the parks and the Okavango Delta.

Any suggestions, tips, ideas, blogs to read, most welcome.

Thanks,
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  #2  
Old 10 Jan 2018
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Originally Posted by maria41 View Post
Hi,


I am on the early planning stage of a trip round Southern Africa.
Anyone has been to Botswana on 2 wheels, recently?

The highlights seem to be all the national parks, but bikes are not allowed, apparently.

Any easy way to get in, without spending $$$$? I would really like to visit some of the parks and the Okavango Delta.

Any suggestions, tips, ideas, blogs to read, most welcome.

Thanks,
http://kaarmann.com/botswana-rules-in-safariland/

We were there a month ago. We had a driver and a trailer to take us through the park, but if you contact the car hire companies early enough, you might find a single-cab 4x4 truck that you can hire in Maun, load the bikes and self drive through the park, returning at Kasani. Just take enough fuel.

Other than that Botswana is a lot of long empty roads tbh.

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  #3  
Old 10 Jan 2018
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Originally Posted by kristox View Post
Botswana: rules in safariland – Kristo Käärmann

We were there a month ago. We had a driver and a trailer to take us through the park, but if you contact the car hire companies early enough, you might find a single-cab 4x4 truck that you can hire in Maun, load the bikes and self drive through the park, returning at Kasani. Just take enough fuel.

Other than that Botswana is a lot of long empty roads tbh.

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Thanks Kristox! Hiring a car (with a trailer!) would be the best solution I guess. I never thought of a trailer, but this is an excellent idea!
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  #4  
Old 10 Jan 2018
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Hi Maria,

I was in Botswana last July. I can give you some input.

Unfortunately, you need a 4x4 to visit parks in Botswana and it is expensive.

I did visit the Okavango Delta. There are a few options depending on your budget and your tolerance to risk regarding animals. The Moremi park entrance was 50$/person and 50$/night for camping.

Option 1) The simplest option is to go with a tour. Some campsites / hotels offer day trip. Price will depend on number of people. It may not be cheap for two persons.

Option 2) Rent a 4x4 with fridge and roof tent. It will be around 200$/day. Check with Mckenzie 4x4 in Maun. They have an excellent reputation.

Option 3) Go with your own bike to Khwai (It is near the Okavango Delta Park North Entrance and most animals hang around the river there. So there is no need to go inside the park. Many tour operators just go there to see animals. Camping is 30$ a night for just a peace of dirt (no toilet). They won't allow you to camp in the bush. There was an hotel closer to the park entrance but I did not ask for prices. If you go with option 3, there are some risks (see my comments below)

Option 4) There is a mechanic in town who rents 4x4 for 150$/day (no tent/ no fridge). Let me know if interested.

Option 5) You can join a group that are flying above the delta. Just go near the airport.

...

When I went to visit the Okavango Delta, I wanted to rent a 4x4. I had ridden really hard my DR650 going down the West coast of Africa. My metal water bottle holder started breaking in Namibia and decided to give a break to the bike and minimize offroad riding. I also wanted to experience what it was to travel in a 4x4 for a future trip maybe. But unfortunately, there was a 3 weeks wait to rent a 4x4 at Mckenzie. So I decided to go with Option 3 and ride my bike to Khwai.

If you take option 3, you need to know the following:

1) The dirt road between Sankuyo and Mababe is considered predators territory: But lions rarely attack humans. Only the old ones or sick ones may be tempted to attack an human because they have more difficulties hunting. Generally lions start hunting around 4-4:30pm. Be sure to cross earlier in the day. When camping, if you stay in your tent, lions won't attack you. They may come close to your tent to sniff but they will leave you alone. It would be better to rent a canvas tent instead of the super light tents.

2) South of Sankuyo toward Maun is Elephants territory: Safer but not without risk. There is a high volume of elephants crossing this area. if you meet an elephant in Botswana and it feels threaten, it will open their hears to signal that they will attack you if you don't go away. Just back off slowly and everything is fine. FYI: I was informed that in Zimbabwe, because of poaching, elephants attack right away, no warning. If you need to camp in elephant territory, it is recommended to light a fire to let elephant know you are there. Otherwise they may walk over you.


When I was there the road to Kwai was really bad. The corrugations were big and there was many sandy sections. I did not control myself and kept riding fast in the corrugations. What had to happen, happened: My frame started breaking around 1PM just past Sankuyo. The frame started deforming itself. I turned around and rode in first gear sitting on the tank for as long as I could. I was able to come back about 25km until the carb got separated from the engine and found myself in the elephant zone. To make the story short a pickup truck came to pick me up after dark. On its way to find me, the truck got an hole in his gaz tank. The road was bad!


A few days later, I did go to Khwai but in a 4x4. The first thing I liked about the 4x4 was going to the grocery store: You can buy and carry all the food you want. Impossible on a bike!

It was great to visit Khwai and Moremi. I had not seen much animals before. I did not go to Etosha park in Namibia. You follow jeep tracks on your own trying to find the animals. You can get out of the truck to take pictures (impossible on a tour). One morning I woke up and there was plenty of zebras close to the 4x4. It was a very nice moment. And what about the lions? there were mating, I did not see any

Patrick
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  #5  
Old 10 Jan 2018
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here is a small map
Attached Thumbnails
Botswana: exploring on 2 wheels - recommendations and tips-screen-shot-2018-01-10  

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  #6  
Old 10 Jan 2018
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Thanks a lot Patrick for the long post and all the advice.
We will go to Etosha. And rent a car or join a tourist guide tour there.

But Botswana seems quite something too.
We will try to rent a car then. Not easy to book in advance ... I still don’t have my precise departure date and so much can happen on the road. But I will make a note of your recommendations in my travel notepad!


Thanks,
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Old 10 Jan 2018
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Unfortunately the Game Reserves are out of bounds for motorcyclists - for obvious reasons. Hungry cats, buffaloes, elephants, rhino.....

Botswana is actually not the best ride for two-wheelers. Many of the backroads are very sandy. The Game Reserves are often only accessible by 4x4. Unlike the camp sites in NAM and SA the camps are usually not fenced in, meaning that the game can move freely between the trucks and tents. Quite an experience ;o)
In the south you could visit the Kgalagadi Reserve. Along the Nossob River is usually quite a lot of game. In the northern parts of BOT the Moremi NP is IMHO the most interesting reserve.

Bike-wise I think that Namibia and South Africa are much more rewarding.

Enjoy your trip!
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I really liked Botswana but I do agree with Vaufi and Kristox that it does not have much to offer for motorcycles.

Which bike are you taking?
Which front tire are you planning to use? If your cruising speed is around 100km/h on pavement do yourself a favor and use a more agressive front tire to play offroad in Namibia. Take something more agressive then the K60 front. It might be too much for you but I used pirelli's MT21 on the front and they last 12000km if you run them between 30-33psi. They last even more if you reverse the tire at the end of its life.

Namibia is great for offroad riding. Sesfontein to Puros is a nice ride, the road C13, Epupa to Ruacana, ...


Patrick
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  #9  
Old 11 Jan 2018
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Originally Posted by PatOnTrip View Post
I really liked Botswana but I do agree with Vaufi and Kristox that it does not have much to offer for motorcycles.

Which bike are you taking?
Which front tire are you planning to use? If your cruising speed is around 100km/h on pavement do yourself a favor and use a more agressive front tire to play offroad in Namibia. Take something more agressive then the K60 front. It might be too much for you but I used pirelli's MT21 on the front and they last 12000km if you run them between 30-33psi. They last even more if you reverse the tire at the end of its life.

Namibia is great for offroad riding. Sesfontein to Puros is a nice ride, the road C13, Epupa to Ruacana, ...


Patrick


Hi Patrick,


I will take my XT250. For my front tyre I just fitted a Pirelli MT21. The back tyre I got in Osh (Kyrgyzstan) and is a Shinko (fairly good Korean off road tyre- lasts forever).


so I think I can fairly well manage trails. The bike was outstanding across Russia and central Asia and we had some pretty nasty trails there (shortcuts are wonderful but never save any time!).


Alistair will ride a CRF250. He needs to set it up as he traded his old TTR for this one few months ago.


We are taking the Enduro bikes because we want to be able to ride anywhere; and those very light little bikes can get us through anything (albeit based on rider competency!).


Our main issue will be carrying fuel. I have the stock fuel tank (10l - 300km range). Alistair will need to change his tank (6.6l is not much) and in addition we have 2 fuel bladders (but not easy to fix on the bikes).


We contacted Gabe at Zen Overland (he built the luggage frame on the TTR and it was outstanding work!). We will get him to do a rack for the CRF and ensure we can fit jerry cans under the frame (between the rack and the wheel).
it seems fuel is an issue! so I will work on that.
Definitely planning to get off the main roads into trails and explore as much as we can.
WE have 4 months so plenty of time to visit.
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  #10  
Old 11 Jan 2018
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Hi Maria,

There are many Yamaha dealers and you can get parts quickly. You can refresh your bike before leaving and carry almost no spares (tubes and an air filter). This way you can travel really light.

North west Namibia is fantastic for off-roading. I would say prep your bike for sand riding: no tank panier, gearing 16-51 for road and 14 or 15-51 offroad, luggage far enough behind you so take can sit back comfortably, heavier fork spring and a way too prefilter dust before it gets to your air filter. Unfortunately "filter skin" don't fit well on your air filter.

Regarding fueling, I don't know which fuel bladder you have but you can find the desert fox model in South Africa and Namibia. It comes with metal rings to ease strapping it to a bike. I do prefer using rotopax or similar without the metal attachment. You cover the gaz tank with denier 800 or 1000 and sew nylon strap on it. When sewing you make a few small loops to allow your bungee cords to pass through it. This way you can attach you gaz can any where.

Don't underestimate water, it is heavy to carry too. The climate was dry when i was there and I was drinking a lot.

Riding a CRF250R sounds like a lot of fun.

Depending on when you are going, Windhoek can be chilly.

Have fun prepping your bikes and have a nice trip!

Patrick
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Old 11 Jan 2018
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We just finished Botswana, in the south there is nothing but middle and north are beautiful! We made a short movie from our trip in Botswana. Check out on the link below (and look for Botswana or photo from a Elephant with motorcycle).

www.youtube.com/oneroadoneworld

I'm sure after that you would love to read the story as well and see where to go haha.

http://oneroadoneworld.com/southern-...s-in-botswana/

For going to the Delta I would suggest you stay in Maun at Old Bridge backpackers, either you can find a group together to rent a car there or try to go with some other travellers with their 4x4. Or book a river cruise or safari from a local shop in town, this are your cheaper options.

If you have more questions please send me a message, I don't have a good connection all the time as we are still on the road, currently in Malawi. But I will answer all questions

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Old 12 Jan 2018
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So, with your light off-roaders you should be suitably equipped for the backroads
The region Patrick mentioned is the Kaokoveld in the North-West of NAM, basically west-northwest from Purros and Opuwo. The most spectacular way to enter it is from Opuwo directly westwards, down the Van-Zyls Pass to the Mariental Valley and then further to Purros. But this area is rough & tough. Sand, endless corrugations and VERY lonely. There is no way to contact anybody in an emergency.... And of course no petrol. You will have to carry food and fuel for a few days.

Here is a very interesting read concerning the Kaokoveld: Goat meat, good friends and riverbeds | Adventure Rider

The Epupa Falls north of Opuwo on the Kunene River are at the least spectacular (if there is enough water ;o). The trail from there eastwards along the Kunene is also well worth a ride.

Enjoy!
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Old 12 Jan 2018
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Originally Posted by maria41 View Post
Any easy way to get in, without spending $$$$? I would really like to visit some of the parks and the Okavango Delta.
Any suggestions, tips, ideas, blogs to read, most welcome.

Hi yes if been to Botswana 2 Weeks ago. If you cant enter the parks with your bike just jump on one of the game drives or boat trips which are offered in Kasane for 200 local bugs ca 20 US$. There are also mony more places out of official parks were you can get with a bike or normal car and see wild animales like Elefant Sands see here: In a rental car through South Africa, Botswana and Namibia





Quote:
Originally Posted by PatOnTrip View Post
Unfortunately, you need a 4x4 to visit parks in Botswana and it is expensive.
True but not for Etosha in Namibia and not for Krüger Park in Southafrica. For Chobe in Botswana just jump on a guidet game drive for 20 US$ insted of renting an expensive 4x4. Because they have Radios, they know were the lions are. Of course 4x4s are nice but heavy on diesel for long trips http://schoene-motorradtouren.de/?report=en_lkw_tour




Quote:
Originally Posted by maria41 View Post
Thanks Kristox! Hiring a car (with a trailer!) would be the best solution I guess. I never thought of a trailer, but this is an excellent idea!
Anyway hiring a car will be the cheapest option. It was something like 250 Euro per month + insurance if you want it. Thats cheaper then a bike, not talking about two bikes. Just bring your own tent. For a 4x4 thats what they charge you per day Another trip we visited Southafrica, Botswana and Namibia with the smallest, cheapest car available Hyundai i10 see here: http://adventure-travel-experience.d...=en_suedafrika



Enjoy your trip
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Old 18 Jan 2018
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Thanks for all the input guys. Some very nice blogs too. My evenings are going to be busy reading those!
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