Crossing the Amazon river - guide

[zwyszomi]

As I crossed Amazon river between Belem and Macapa, let me share some practical information.
Step #1. Boat ticket.
I’m pretty sure that ticket for motorbike can be purchased in Passengers Terminal (1°26'32.1"S 48°29'43.1"W) in Belem but at least basic Portuguese skills are necessary. The alternative solution is to use the travel agency, in my opinion the ticket price was exactly the same. I have used Amazon Star (operacoes@amazonstar.com.br) very responsive and perfect Customer service. The owner has the phone numbers to boat owners so can provide most up to date information regarding timetables etc. etc.
I used Navio Breno boat, the trip took 24hrs. Tickets are as follows: cabin 600 BRL (pretty tiny, 2 beds included), bike – the price depends on the cylinders, for twin the price is 600 BRL too.
The bike has to be loaded before the passengers boarding and is not allowed at the Passengers Terminal. The departure time for my boat was 3PM so I had to be at docks at 11AM. The cargo loading point is Porto Tamandare (1°27'43.8"S 48°30'15.7"W), I got the voucher at Amazon Star which was required by boat staff. The loading procedure was fast and simple although don’t leave any bags on bike which will be needed by You during the trip. When the boat arrive to Passenger Terminal Your bike will be covered and surrounded by uncountable number of cargo bags, boxes etc. so almost no access to the bike.
When bike is loaded You have to go to the Passenger Terminal to exchange another voucher for passenger ticket and wait for a boat.
The boats depart every day except Sunday. The good accommodation in Belem is Residencial Dom Fernando (via booking.com), they allowed to park my bike for 3 months, large covered area good for bike repairs etc.
The boat trip was amazing - different world
Step #2. Arriving Macapa.
When boat arrives to Macapa (Santanta a few kms from Macapa) You have to wait a bit when cargo will be unloaded enough, in my case it was a bit challenging to leave the boat as the gangplank disappeared somewhere so small jump was required.
In Macapa the beautiful place to take a rest is Chale no Sitio em Macapa (via booking). A lot of space – kind of ecotourism and really, really friendly owners, family atmosphere etc. The bike can be parked for a long period too.
Step #3. North of Macapa.
The road to French Guiana is nice, including the dirty part ca. 120km when there is no rain. I can imagine what is going on when the rain starts – mud, mud and once more mud. French Guiana is empty and expensive territory.
Before boarding the ferry to Suriname (7AM, 8AM, 9AM, 3PM, 4PM, 5PM) You HAVE TO BUY the insurance for Suriname. You will not be allowed to leave the port area without insurance. The insurance can be purchased in Saint Laurent in F. Guiana. The ferry is really tiny so pls. be ahead of scheduled departure.
I had no insurance for Suriname so I spent around 3 hrs trying to find an option how to buy it. There is an insurance agent in Albina but it was closed, nobody was able to find or call him. The Customs at the port are really helpful and they were able to manage the insurance in Paramaribo for me even.
In Paramaribo my bike has broken down so I had to park it somewhere too. My hotel owner was so kind and helpful too, she allowed to park my bike for a long period, I had to ask her that I could pay for it. I can really recommend that hotel for bikers (Tran Elite Hotel Apartments via booking.com)
I hope it helps
Ziggy

[huguesfrederic]

Wow thanks what is your destination? Are you going thrue Venezuela?

[zwyszomi]

Well... now I had to park my motorbike in Paramaribo due to alternator break down. Yes, Venezuela was on my route but now even if You manage the crossing into from Brazil there is no option to enter Colombia with bike when leaving Venezuela. So the detour via Peru and famous BR319 is the only option to continue the trip to New York where it all began

[Peter Bodtke]

Hi Ziggy,

The rainy season gets real in November/December and BR-319 can turn into a few hundred mile mud story. Wahooo. I haven't done it, only planning/dreaming of riding that stretch of dirt. There was the French guy I met who rode BR-319 in December. He said he never dropped his bike so many times in his life... I believe I bought his next drink.

Please post your experience with French Guiana and liability insurance. It was hard to get at a reasonable price back in 2012. Check out the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guiana_Space_Centre but don't go on Saturday, the museum is closed.

Get your visa for Suriname in Cayenne, French Guiana. They don't issue visas at the border.

Load up on cash in Georgetown, Guyana if you are drawing from a foreign bank. The banks in the south don't have relationships with an international bank that support ATM cash withdrawn. Oh yeah, and they drive on the other side of the road in Guayana.

Enjoy the Guyanas.