North through the Caucasus - Current political situation??

[Declan]

Hi All,
I'm planning a trip next May from Ireland anti-clockwise around the Black Sea and back to Ireland - the furthest point hopefully being Baku on the Caspian.

Proposed route will be east across Turkey to Georgia and south into Armenia, then north back to Georgia and on to Baku in Azerbaijan. From Baku back to Georgia then north through the Caucasus taking the ferry to Kerch in the Crimea then home through Odessa and Chisinau in Moldova and on westward.

I'm just wondering will the current political situation in the Caucasus will I be able to realise my plans.

Would really appreciate any advice regarding borders, visas (I'm an Irish national) route options, links etc.

Thanks

[eurasiaoverland]

You cannot go from Crimea into Mainland Ukraine as far as I know.

Russia to Ukraine you will need to avoid Luhansk and Donetsk Regions, meaning a diversion far away from the Black Sea (I suggest the Belgorod - Kharkiv crossing).

North Caucasus are fine but be aware there are active insurgencies in Dagestan and Ingushetia. Not necessarily a reason to avoid visiting, depending on how risk-averse you are, but something to be aware of.

There are travel reports on my website of both the South and North Caucasus, click below.

Cheers

EO

[Declan]

Thanks eurasiaoverland,
Not being able to travel out of Crimea into Ukraine, if this road is closed would be problematic for me as the diversion to Kharkiv will add a lot of time.

I have also just read that if I am allowed to cross this defacto border that Ukraine authorities may impose a sanction on me for illegal entru into Ukraine, given that I entered at Kerch onto what they consider is Ukrainian territory.

[eurasiaoverland]

Originally Posted by Declan

Thanks eurasiaoverland,
Not being able to travel out of Crimea into Ukraine, if this road is closed would be problematic for me as the diversion to Kharkiv will add a lot of time.

I have also just read that if I am allowed to cross this defacto border that Ukraine authorities may impose a sanction on me for illegal entru into Ukraine, given that I entered at Kerch onto what they consider is Ukrainian territory.

I am not sure if you, as a foreigner, can enter Crimea from Mainland Ukraine (i.e. do the trip the other way round). Certainly my Ukrainian friends can, but I'm not sure if the crossing is multilateral.

[FS]

I havent been to Azer myself, but from what I heard it is not so nice. Corrupt police and brain-washed people. Maybe that makes it interesting for some...

[eurasiaoverland]

Originally Posted by FS

I havent been to Azer myself, but from what I heard it is not so nice. Corrupt police and brain-washed people. Maybe that makes it interesting for some...

I think a second-hand opinion (i.e. gossip) such as this has very little value, in fact it strikes me as rather odd that it is the only subject of your post.

Azerbaijan is certainly not as tourist-friendly as Georgia or Armenia, nor does it have the scenery or the historical sights to match the other two countries of the South Caucasus. It is also rather expensive, and the cost of a visa is very high (a transit visa is pretty cheap, but you can only keep your vehicle in for 72 hours).

Azerbaijan is however an interesting place to visit to get some perspective on the political situation in the region. The scenery along the Zaqatala - Baku road is beautiful, especially in spring, and Baku is not a bad place to visit. Although it is not on your route, I also drove through the exclave of Nakhchivan last year, which I thought was very nice indeed. Azerbaijan has some very charming small villages and is generally unspoilt by tourism.

There is also some nice mountain scenery in the north, which I have not yet visited, though it is similar to the highlands of Dagestan (which I am familiar with) and which are fascinating. I'm planning on seeing Xinaliq and Laza this year.

As for police, well like in most ex-USSR countries they are best avoided. Some of the speed limit signs and other road signs are very hard to see, and some of the speed limits are extremely low. I do hear a lot of foreign bikers (not so many drivers...) complaining about the police on the main Ganja - Baku road stopping them to pay very steep speeding fines... I wonder how many of them were actually sticking to the speed limit. Simply not having much cash on you would be a good way to avoid having to pay them.

Regards people, well there are some very strong opinions on Armenia and the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict which are rather far from being objective, but that aside they are no more (or less) brainwashed than the general Joe Public anywhere else in my opinion. Everyone I met in Azerbaijan was very friendly and decent, as is typical of the region.

One of the best travel guides I have ever come across is that for Azerbaijan by Mark Elliott (published by Trailblazer) which is almost guaranteed to get you interested.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Azerbaijan-E...iot+azerbaijan

So in a nutshell, if you want to see amazing mountains go to Georgia, if you want to see somewhere with a lot of history and culture, go to Armenia. But if you like to see places which are slightly less obvious in their attractions, are willing to put up with minor annoyances, and enjoy places which are not so touristy, go to Azerbaijan.

EO

[FS]

Originally Posted by eurasiaoverland

I think a second-hand opinion (i.e. gossip) such as this has very little value, in fact it strikes me as rather odd that it is the only subject of your post.

Im sorry my post didnt meet your standards. I figured my post could maybe spark further investigation regarding this. The comments I heard from fellow travellers were pretty negative about this specific country, hence my post.

At the very least it seems my post got you to expand more on the topic. So maybe we can all be glad that OP got some info in the end.

[Eshark]

I have fully evaluated this root just opposit direction- not going to Crymia due to war RUS/UA, not going to Azeri due to corruption of officials and idiotic customs rules (even you have visa for month, your veacle shall leave country in 3 or 5 days).
So, im leaving from Oslo (LV) 26.04 to Samara (RUS) for biker party. After I will go Georgia, Armenia, Turkey, maybe Greece and to next party in Brest 30.05
You can join me. Russian visa is easy and Russia is cheap now and much more fun than Azerbaijan.

[eurasiaoverland]

Originally Posted by Eshark

...customs rules (even you have visa for month, your veacle shall leave country in 3 or 5 days)...

Are you sure about this? AFAIK If you have a visa for 30 days or more, your vehicle may remain in AZ for 30 days. That was according to a customs official I spoke to at the Jolfa crossing last year, I have not actually tried it...

[Eshark]

Unfortunately I didn’t manage to find information in English, but if you use Google translator than: [url=http://www.az-customs.net/rus/082-030904.htm]

[Eshark]

Unfortunately I didn’t manage to find information in English, but if you use Google translator than: [url=http://www.az-customs.net/rus/082-030904.htm]
In few words: temporary import of private motor vehicle can be import and registered in 72hr. by custom. Actually you have to leave country in 72hr.
OR see index 3.4- if you import vehicle up to 30 days than it shall be stored in custom zone.
Or you can you can ride with no issues and pay bribes to Police and Customs.
By the way, [url=http://www.vesti.az/news/213470]- from 16 of August they will ask for additional document which confirm that your vehicle have Euro 4.- Even more opportunities for corruption

[eurasiaoverland]

Interesting. Regards the EURO4, I think this is only for vehicles being permanently imported.

I have read accounts of people overstaying the 72 hour allowance and paying a small official fine.