Vladivostok, Russia to Chernovtsy, Ukraine

[Daaayo]

I could really use some direction from you experienced LD riders.
My last “adventure ride” started the day I graduated Monterey High School in 1973. I had a ’70 Triumph Trophy 500. So I tied a backpack and Army surplus mummy bag on it, stuffed $100 in my pocket, strapped on my Bell Star helmet and rode around Canada for 3 months… 35 years later… June ’08 my ’07 BMW GS Adventure and I will arrive in Vladivostok, Russia and I will be riding across Russia and Ukraine for 3 months stopping at every orphanage I can find to try and encourage the children to do something with their lives and not become a statistic. Within 2 years of “graduating” the orphanages 90% of the children are either in prison, strung out on drugs living on the streets or have committed suicide. Over ½ of the girls are forced into prostitution. I would like to film a documentary on their lives and living conditions and then find churches and service clubs to “adopt” an orphanage and the children in it.
I have been to Russia 19 times over the past 5½ years (never on a bike, yet) working with children in orphanages. I am fluent in speaking Russian but can’t read or write very well.
I would really appreciate any help you guys can provide with the following:
1) What is currently the best source for route planning? I have bought maps of Russia but the road details are very poor. I have been checking out Wanderlust GPS World Map and wonder whatcha all think of it and if it would work well in Russia.
2) It would be ideal to ride the entire distance without having to put the bike on the train through the swampy area. Is June/July an ok time to ride through that area?
3) I have the shipping to Russia taken care of and wanted to ship the bike home from Odessa but have heard that that is not a good port to ship back to the states from. Where would be the next closest port to Odessa that would be a good one to ship home from?
4) I will be camping when need be but prefer to stay in hotels along the way. Any “gotta” stay at and “no way” places along the route?
Thank you in advance for any words or wisdom, comments or suggestions anyone could share.

[MotoEdde]

You can route plan with a decent map...I used a National Geographic one and it worked...I fine tuned with local maps when I got into a specific country...

Depending on your riding skill, you can ride the entire distance...from East to West the road conditions improve...between Khabarovsk to Chita...95% of that road is not tarmac and you're riding into a construction zone...
Even when on tarmac between Vlad and Khab, the road turns to gravel...shockingly without a sign in corners!!! Its a well travelled route as there are MANY Jap cars being driven from Vlad out West...

There's an excellent Russian Rad Atlas that you should be able to pick up in Vlad...ask around when you get there...not sure if its available on the net or locally as its in Cyrillic..


As far as shipping goes...bonne chance...no opinion to offer other than check th shipping section of this website for leads and post a specific query about that in a different forum.

Hotels are expensive and shiite...presume $75 minimum and up...per night...no way around it...then there's the murkiness of registration...depending on what type of visa you get...you may be able to registrer just once at the Post Office BUT keep ALL of your receipts from Hotels...just in case.

HTH

[Daaayo]

Thanks HTH for the help.
I do have a National Geographics map but I will look into the Russian Road Atlas. I believe there is an online English company that sells those.
I usually get an annual business visa for Russia and have never had anyone at passport control ask about where I've been or how come I don't have any registration stamps. Because the value of the dollar has sunk to about 24.5 rubles to the dollar and inflation is rampant in Russia everything is going to cost MUCH more.
Shipping the bike is being handled by Nick at STS Logics. He read an article on what I was doing for the kids in Russia (he's Russian) and said he would cover the cost of shipping my bike there. I was humbled by his generosity.
Thanks for the tips on the roads. I was told it would be best to wait until August because the swampy area would dry out by then and the mosquito's aren't near as bad but I really can't wait that long because I am going to take my time.

[rhunjones]

Hello. your trip sounds great. If you are not staying in one place for 3 or more days you tecnicaly dont have to redgester but try to do it when you can. Fewer hotels do that now espesialy if your only staying for 1-2 night and they will be the expensive ones. You can get cheap places to stay which we didnt have any problems with(just dont expect 5 stars) for les than $10, may not get hot water though. We prefered to stay in the cheap ones becose you met more pepole that way.
When you get to a police check point with a stop sign make sure you stop and put your foot on the road even if no one is around, and then go. If you get caught speeding or anything dont give them what they ask for, $10 is usualy enough unles you have done something quite bad and they have you by the short and curleyes. Ukrainian police are the worst but if you pass them at high speed youl have less chance of geting pulled over, they have les power than Russians anyway. Russian border police are profesional and straight(we found) but Ukraine ones try to take the piss every time with us.
Hope you will let us know how you get along. Sorry about the speling, its not my first language.

[Daaayo]

Thanks, rhunjones!
I certainly don't want the Guyeeya's to have me by the "the short and curleyes"!

[maroonga]

Daaayo, Any chance you are looking for another traveler? I have been looking for someone to ride with from Vladivostok through Russia and into Ukraine. Your time frame works for me as does your agenda.

[Daaayo]

maroonga - email sent

[liketoride2]

I rode from Vladivostok to Latvia in 2005, so some things may have changed, but FWIW, some answers/comments to your questions:

1. I used an Atlas titled "Atlantic to Pacific Atlas" in english (the atlas is totally in cyrillic) that I ordered in advance from Stanfords in London (they ship to the US). I believe their stock # for the atlas is 125170. It's hardbound and a bit expensive but it seemed fairly detailed and I found it to be accurate. I thought it was worth it to have it in advance so as to study the route over the weeks/months before departure (also great fun!). I ripped out the pages covering my route rather than taking the entire large volume. Stanfords website is Stanfords' Maps and Travel Books Online. Garmin's world map had good detail of at least some cities (my gps didn't function for much of the trip). By far the biggest difficulty with navigation was in the cities as there aren't that many roads in the rural areas of Siberia. Good gps mapping for the cities would be of great help. Being able to speak Russian will be enormously helpful (I don't). All I could do regarding asking directions was point to where I wanted to go on my map, and the reply would be pointing in the direction to go and then indicating turn right or left. But turn when - in a km, 5 km., 25, etc.!!! Almost every person I asked for directions in Russia (and there were many) tried their best to help me and were very generous with their time. One fellow even drove about 30 miles out of his way, with me following behind, to get me on the road I needed to take. And we could hardly understand a word the other spoke. I met lots of wonderful, helpful people in Russia.

2. As said in a post above, riding the entire route will not be a problem for you if you have some dirt riding ability. You will encounter large numbers of biting insects in June/July according to most accounts. I rode it in the last half of August and encountered very few insects didn't see much swamp. More of the road in the so called Zilow Gap will presumably be paved when you go than in 2005. The goal of the Russian government was to have it entirely paved by the end of the 2008 construction season but I doubt if that will be met.

3. I air freighted my bike from Frankfurt so I can't help you with shipping advice. I also used STS Logistics in Bellevue, Wa. to ocean ship from Seattle to Vladivostok and they did a good job for a reasonable price. However, my motorcycle luggage was missing when I went to pick up the bike in Vladivostok (not the fault of STS) but "found" the next day. Details are in my website journal. Despite all the wonderful people, it seems theft is a large problem in Russia.

4. I'll copy my hotel list, with recommendations, below. Unlike Edde, I didn't find lodging expensive in Russia, although the exchange rate was more favorable in 2005 than now. I paid from about $6 at the lowest to about $128 at the highest, details below. I found that a quite nice room in a roadside motel/hotel, usually in a truck stop type complex, could be had for 400 rubles, about $14 then. Between Birobidzhan and Chita I camped as I saw few hotels and the Russian(s) I was riding with were camping every night.

Sorry for the long winded answer. If you have any more questions I might help with please email. Have a great trip. I greatly admire your work with the orphanages.

Mike
Idaho
Ride Around the World 2005

Mike's Russian Hotel List:
Vladivostok - Hotel Primorye. Located in the downtown area near the harbor. Rooms on the harbor side of the building are quieter (no street noise), larger, and with more
comfortable beds, but do cost more. I was told this was the least expensive hotel in
Vladivostok that could validate my Visa, required within three days of arrival in the
country. Conveniently located to the various offices one must visit to get a vehicle into
the country, and numerous restaurants, etc. but is far from the airport and main roads out
of the city to the north. Has both a restaurant and a cafe inside the building and a
casino next door. Recommended.

Birobidzhan - Hotel Boctok (Vostok) The only hotel I could find in this small city but a
gem with a nice restaurant and very pleasant staff, although only the head waitress (or
manager, not sure) in the restaurant, the lovely Lena, spoke English. Stayed two nights
since I badly needed rest at this time. Highly recommended.

Chita - Panama City Hotel. Rooms are in duplex type bungalows, very pleasant landscaped
grounds, nice restaurant, breakfast included in rate, accept credit cards. A few miles
south of the main road into the city, easy to get to. Recommended.

Ulan Ude - Motel AOHAN (approximate spelling, backward N) Large building on the south
(right) side of the main road going into the city from the west, set well back from the
highway. Comfortable, nice restaurant, reasonable price. Recommended.

Listvyanka (on Lake Baikal) - Hotel Baikalskie Terema. A resort type hotel in this small
resort town on the Lake. Very nice log construction, looks like an inn in a US ski resort
and of comparable quality. At least some of the staff speak english and the is
really cold, small but nice restaurant. The downside is that it's very expensive by
Russian standards - my cost was 3600 Rubles, about $126 US. And that was in 2005. It's a
bit difficult to find, being off the main road on the side away from the Lake on a side
street, somewhat uphill from the main street near the waterfront. Look for a natural log
structure uphill from the street and lake. Recommended if you want to pay that much.

Between Irkutsk and Krasnorsk - Hotel Ne'rpa (Approximate spelling, in a roadside truck
stop, left side of road. Clean, comfortable, excellent secure parking for the bike
(inside a gated, locked patio), shared bathroom down the hall. Basic cafe is the only
food available, but still recommended.

Krasnyorsk - Siberian Safari Club Hotel. A high end, large (several stories) hotel on the
river with a view of the city from the upper floors. Excellent restaurant. Quite a
distance into the city from the main road and difficult to find, but with a name like this
who could resist. It's listed in the Lonely Planet guide. Recommended.

East of Kemerovo somewhere - roadside motel - cafe complex on left side of road, name
unknown, small hotel above cafe. Not great but ok. No secure parking for the bike.

Twenty-eight miles west of Novosibirsk - hotel on right side of road by a small lake.
Sign on cafe in front of it = KATE y D3EPA (approximate spelling). The rooms are pleasant
and clean, the cafe is basic, and there is no secure parking except I could put the bike
immediately below my room window. Pleasant lakeside setting and back away from the
highway far enough so the road noise isn't obtrusive. Recommended.

Isulkur (approximate english translation), a small town a few miles east of the Kazakhstan
border on M51, large old Soviet style hotel, name unknown. Can't type the Cyrillic name
of the town on an english keyboard. South of M51, west side of street. Shared bathroom
and no shower apparently available anywhere in the building. The upside - very cheap,
about $6 US! No cafe nearby although there is a little grocery store next door. Ok if
nothing else is available (in the dark with the rain pouring down and after a very long,
hard days ride, it looked like the Hilton to me!!).

The Hotel from Hell - don't know the name or exaclty where it's located but about a days ride west from Isulkur, between Omsk and Celyabinsk (closer to Celyabinsk) on the right side of road, brick walls, two or three stories, huge parking area. Avoid at all costs (there's another complex 100 yards or so west on the left side that looked much more modern and pleasant, at least in retrospect).

Celyabinsk - truck stop type complex on road that circles the city to the north, north to
northeast of the city proper. Modern hotel building, cafe next door, clean pleasant rooms
but shared bathrooms. Recommended.

Oktyabrskiy - Hotel Poles'e (in english), adjacent to Cafe Madryt (in Russian). Truck
stop type complex on left side of M5 just south of the city. Modern building with
different level and prices for rooms. Mine was pleasant, clean, with a private full
bathroom, and at a reasonable price. This complex has the hotel, two cafes, an auto parts
store, two repair shops, and a welding service (a very talented welder). This is where I
had my bike repaired and serviced (the only service in Russia) and I stayed here two
nights. My first night in european Russia. Highly recommended.

Penza - Hotel ropn3OHT (approximate name). A few miles west of the city. Fairly large
roadside motel and restaurant (not a truck stop) on left side of M5. Clean, comfortable,
reasonable price. Out in the country by itself and very quiet, no services except lodging
and food. Recommended.

West of Moscow on M1 - Hotel TABEPHA, approximate Cyrillic spelling. In a truck stop
complex on left side of road. Comfortable, clean room. My last night in Russia.
Recommended.

[Daaayo]

Hi Mike,
Thank you for your extensive and comprehensive reply. I really do appreciate it. I just returned from Russia and brought Valya, a Russian orphan girl back. Her leg has been broken for 16 months now and still has not healed. We are hoping to be able to save her leg. Depending on how long the surgeries and subsequent rehabilitation will take I may have to pospone my ride until '09 :confused1:. Thanks again for your helpful info.
Pat

[maroonga]

Mike,
Any chance you want to make the trip again? I am looking for someone who can be in Vlad around June/July.

Pat,
Glad to hear you made it back with Valya.

Lance

[Nomade]

I do have a National Geographics map but I will look into the Russian Road Atlas. I believe there is an online English company that sells those.

Hi there Daaayo,

Atlas is available in Stanfords books and maps, UK.
Website is Stanfords' Maps and Travel Books Online.

Hopefully everything goes well with the kid and i'll see you on the same road this summer. Same goes for you maroonga.
I will be in contact with HU Vladivostok community prior to arrival.

Nasvidenje

[Daaayo]

After meeting with the doctor last Tuesday that will be operating on Valya's leg I will have to postpone my trip until '09. The doctor said it will probably take about 6 months of operations and rehab before there is a possibility of saving her leg. Bummer. But I gotta do everything possible to save the kids leg. She doesn't speak English and no one else in my family speaks Russian except me. Good new is that it will give me more time to plan, promote and find some more sponsors (hopefully). Also I am going to turn it into a RTW trip spending the majority of the time in Russia and Ukraine focusing on the children of the orphanages.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions. Any suggestions on shipping or air freighting my bike from Europe to the East coast of the US or Cananda would be appreciated.

[Big K's Man]

Gents, ( maroonga, Daaayo & others )

I'm also planning a trip Vladivlostok to Europe starting June 2008. I'll email you both, I'm flying solo at this stage, but looking to link up with people at various points.

If you don't hear from me, please get in touch.

Thanks

[Panmundo-Tobias]

Hi,
your project does sound fantastic!
I myself have just crossed Russia in winter (in fact, 2 days ago I made into Estonia coming from St. Pete) and I can tell you:

- The road between Chaborowsk and Chita is almost finished. It is absolutely no problem to drive/ride it - and I don't think that it will be much different in summer. The road is gravel, true, but except for a puncture in your tyre here and then, you will not face any difficulties riding it. Also, fuel is available every 100km or so. Sleeping: there are so called "gastinizas" (with your Russian knowledge you probably can pronounce this better than I can) along the road - not too often, but we found every evening a decent bed and got some hearty "Borscht". However, in summer you will be able to camp.

- Our average speed from Vladivostok to Lake Baikal was 74km/h (ok, with a Toyota Land-Cruiser, but ur BMW won't be much slower)

- People are super friendly all along the way

- After Chaborowsk there are luckily no more corrupt policemen (however, be prepared: after Novosibirsk they stand behind every snowhill).

- If you have time, visit Mongolia and the SOS-Children's Village in Ulaanbaataar for an exemplary orphanage

If you want to read my roadbook entry for the corresponding leg of my trip, please follow

PanMundo.Com

Have a great trip!
Tobias

------------------------------------
In 2 years around the world by 4x4
PanMundo.Com

[Daaayo]

Originally Posted by Panmundo-Tobias

I myself have just crossed Russia in winter
PanMundo.Com

Thanks for the current road condition report! That is encouraging and I will take a look at your website.
Hope you had a good heater in your vehicle!