Russian traffic police are definitely a mixed bag. Like most public servants in most CIS countries, they have low salaries and expect to supplement their incomes by taking 'tips' from motorists. The most important factor in considering how corrupt the local gendarmerie is going to be is where you are in Russia.

I have found the most decent police to be in Siberia, and the worst, by far, in the Caucasus. There are also specific stretches of road where the police know there are easy pickings - on roads near international border crossings, roads popular with holidaymakers etc. Moscow - Orel and Rostov - Krasnodar are famous.

My experiences range from professional (though rarely very friendly), to ridiculous (cops threatening big things for putting a wheel on a solid line at the side of the road, I couldn't help but laugh), to outright hostile and out of control (traffic police pulling a gun on me and asking me to take my trousers down - I didn't) in Ingushetia. Never have I given these guys any money. Sometimes, the traffic police may report you to the KGB as a foreigner (in the Caucasus too), which is nice.

The good thing with the real cowboys is that they have absolutely NO interest in enforcing the law. Once they know you're not paying out, they soon get bored and let you go on. Just don't let them think you're scared - laugh off their offences (real or imagined) or start shouting back. I've never met a cop who can be bothered to fill out the dreaded 'protocol' or police report, and I've been caught accidentally runing red lights, being over the limit for alcohol (I still think the meter was dodgy, I hadn't had a drink for about 16 hours), and being in an unmarked border zone etc etc. It sounds stupid, but it's difficult not to break the traffic rules occasionally (e.g. traffic lights hidden behind trees) and be sure the cops know exactly where people f***-up and they'll be there waiting.

NOT speaking Russian definitely helps if you've done something wrong. Pretending to be an idiot is also good. Combining both is highly effective.

Overall, stick to the rules, even if nobody else is, and sit tight for those bad apples.

Daniel

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