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Photo by Helmut Koch, Vivid sky with Northern Lights, Yukon, Canada

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Helmut Koch,
Camping under Northern Lights,
Yukon, Canada



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  #1  
Old 12 Dec 2022
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Arrow From Russia. Around the world - THE WAY

" I'm going on a trip around the world!

I have to travel the world, visit the most hidden corners of the planet.

I do not want to rush, but my plan will be implemented within two and a half years.

My name is Oleg Kharitonov.




I was born in Russia and live in Moscow.

I did exhibitions, was engaged in advertising and real estate.

I have a son and I have a daughter.

I have a lot of responsibilities, problems and obligations.

I have nothing to go on a long trip around the world.

I will leave in the summer of 2014 and return in the fall of 2016.

Now, to leave, you need to do a lot.

I will have to completely turn everything in my usual life. And do it today. "


So I wrote on Facebook in the fall of 2013.



I left Moscow on August 20, 2014.

The idea was to see the whole world. The best way to do this is by bike.
Nine months have passed from my dream to the start.
I nurtured this idea for three months and prepared for the launch for six months.
The last three months before the start were the hardest for me.

When the idea arose, I made a list of what you need for a round-the-world trip. There were many items in the notebook, the most important of them were:
1. Motorcycle
2. Bicycle driving license
3. Money (a lot of money)
4. Ability to manage enduro (I wanted to ride where there are no roads)
5. Knowledge of English
6. Long-distance travel experience
7. Outfit
And another 500 different items.

When the list was ready, I added + to what I already had. I was able to put only 10 pluses in front of such items: toothbrush, socks, underpants and a lighter. I had nothing more to go around the world ...

Everything pointed to the fact that my dream is unrealizable. But I didn't believe it.

I really wanted to, and the world turned to face me.
I bought my bike in December and got my driver's license right before I left.
My friends taught me how to ride enduro and I managed to find some money and sponsors.
I managed to complete all the preparations on time, but it was much more difficult than you can imagine.

When I started, I was 43 years old. I will travel all over the world to reach the most remote and wild places.

I plan to travel over 150,000 km and cross 5 continents in 800 days.

My English is very bad, so I translate with Google...))







................

It's like a time machine. It's been 8 years.
This trip completely changed my life. Perhaps it was another life that God gave me.
Then I planned that I would return in 800 days and travel to 65 countries. Everything turned out to be much longer, larger and more complex.
I think my experience will help those who are going to completely change their lives.


To be continued..
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Last edited by khariton; 18 Dec 2022 at 22:21.
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  #2  
Old 12 Dec 2022
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Everything you need to know before reading to understand:



Who am I?



I was born in 1971 in the USSR
My parents were too young to properly raise me. They did not have enough time, and they sent me to a kindergarten, where I stayed around the clock, 5 days a week.

At the age of 5, I ran away from kindergarten. It was winter, I returned home when I was cold and it was dark outside. This was my first solo trip.

The next year, in winter, they sent me to a children's sanatorium in the Caucasus. There I persuaded a friend, and we fled. I had a plan: it was necessary to build a aerosleds in the forest and go home to Moscow. We did not die in the winter mountains, because they found us before dark.

I saved up money for a long time and at the age of 15 I bought a Karpaty Sport moped (50cm3) made in the USSR. I did a lot of work on it to make it look like a dirt bike, I put a huge rear sprocket on it and even an extra third ring on the piston, but my mother didn't appreciate it. When she saw a moped next to my bed, she decided to kick him out of the house, so I left with him.
I dragged him to the roof of our high-rise building in Moscow, built a hut (it’s a pity there was no YouTube then) and lived there with him for a whole month until the police arrested me. I had bad documents for a moped and it was confiscated.



At 18, I realized that I was bored with my friends. The day after my birthday, I boarded a plane and flew to work in Bashkiria. I wanted to earn money for a motorcycle. Then the best thing that was sold in the USSR was the Java 350 motorcycle.



I worked as a cook on the Ufa-Orenburg highway. This road looked very romantic, especially at night. I watched cars and trucks go by and envied the drivers.
Then I returned, and Moscow life dragged me into its nets. Then the USSR collapsed, Russia was going through difficult times.



I didn't buy a motorcycle. I was still a terrible adventurer, but my ideas were far from the romance of wandering now.

Before 35, I fell in love. She was the most beautiful and the best woman in the world!



It was she who took me abroad for the first time. We traveled from country to country and then I realized that the world is huge and seeing it all is a must. She was just as crazy as me. Life boiled around us and we rushed through it like whirlwinds.
She died in 2008. Exactly three years after we met. From that moment on, my adventurism and thirst for adventure disappeared. I turned into a boring layman with an extinct look.

Life returned 5 years later, when the idea of a trip around the world appeared. My phone began to ring frequently again, and again everything spun around! For the first time since her death, I was truly happy!
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  #3  
Old 12 Dec 2022
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15.12.2013 Path selection:

It took me two months to put this sinuous line on the map



Everything turned out to be not so simple.
It turned out that I completely forgot geography. That in order to understand which road to take, you need not only to find it on the map, but also read tons of background information, study dozens of thematic forums and reports of those who have passed these roads.
I have to go for many months and the situation in the world is changing too rapidly, so even a carefully designed route is just a rough plan.

The movements between the continents are not displayed - there is still a lot of unclear. I will write about this separately.

Prehistory:

Once my son and I traveled half of Europe on a bicycle.
Our path lay from Berlin to Paris and through the Alps ended in Prague.
We rode without preparation and training.
We learned everything along the way.




The idea has been in the air for a long time, but it turned into a kind of dream after my trip with my son in tandem.
But at that moment my ambitions were more modest. I dreamed of riding a motorcycle from Moscow to Beijing through Mongolia, together with my friend Sergey Lyubchenko, after I watched this movie:



We decided to buy two XTZ 750 Super Tenere motorcycles, take a year of preparation and hit the road.
But those were just dreams and words… None of us really did anything to make this happen. Once he called and said - “.. go alone. I can not. A lot of work.."

I took a map, a marker, opened the Internet and began to study the route. It turned out that this is not possible due to China's policy towards travelers on motorcycles.
They want crazy money for entry and you have to go with an escort ... ((
Then I decided to go around China and started drawing on the map. I didn't know where the line should stop. Every country she ran into I wanted to visit.
This happened when I was 42 years old. I must have had a midlife crisis, thinking all the time that I hadn't done anything special in my life that I could write a book about.
And when I finished drawing the line on the map, I put the marker aside and looked at what happened. A chill went down my spine… It was something to write a book about!
Within a few days, I couldn't think of anything else. All my thoughts were completely captured by the main adventure of my life.

As a result, the path had a length of 150,000 km. According to my calculations, I had to complete it in 800 days - it was a beautiful figure, but it scared me a lot. Never in my life have I been away for so long.

(During the journey, my route has changed. The time has also changed a lot)

Countries

At the moment it turns out 65 countries.
Some will have to go through more than once.
No South Africa yet. In general, much is not clear with Africa. The continent today is the most unstable. It is pointless to even guess which way I will move there today.

I want to go to Tibet for sure! But, the Chinese will not let on a motorcycle. Probably, me will have to leave the motorcycle in Nepal and hitchhike there.

Japan - I planned, but now I doubt it. Probably better to visit it separately later. It's too expensive and they don't accept Russian driving licenses.

Below I have indicated the countries along the proposed route.
In this list, I did not indicate the countries through which I plan to pass twice.



I'm looking at the list I just made. Makes me think...
I try to imagine myself somewhere in the middle of the road. As it will be..?
How will I get back?

.
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Last edited by khariton; 16 Dec 2022 at 21:36.
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Old 12 Dec 2022
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25.10.2013 Preparation

So, we can say that the journey has begun.
Preparation is the most important part of the trip and probably the most responsible. Now it is clear how and where two years of my journey will pass.
It's good when you have a lot of experience and you know exactly where to start and what to do. What I lack in experience I make up for in a high degree of adventurism.

There are people who, in my situation, will do it simply: they will buy a suitable bike in a motorcycle store, buy equipment there, draw a route and hit the road. This is not my case...
I always need to understand all the details. You need to be sure that all the technical details are known and prepared in a unique way, which I consider the height of perfection.
I can't just buy a bike and ride. I will definitely change everything for myself, for my understanding of technical perfection.
It is inappropriate to trust a motorcycle shop consultant and buy everything at once. I will sit on the Internet for days, studying the nuances of technology and user experience, until I find something truly extraordinary.
In a word, a perfectionist.
In this blog you can watch the pangs of choice. And not just motorcycles and equipment. This will include everything I need on this journey.



Your opinions, advice and participation are important to me!
Because this journey is only called "single".
Without the support of friends, the THE WAY project will fail.
It is very important to know that what I started is also interesting to someone.

"..Happiness is possible only when there is someone to share it with.."
.
Christopher Johnson McCandless (Alexander Supertramp)


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  #5  
Old 12 Dec 2022
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05.12.2013 Motorcycle.



On what to go?

Today there is already some understanding of the route. Сan guess which roads to prepare for.
If you count as a percentage, then very approximately, it will probably be the following:

30% - good asphalt
20% - bad asphalt
20% - good dirt roads
15% - bad dirt roads
10% - off-road
5% - full off-road

And of course the perfect dirt bike will not be as good on the highway.
But! Comfortable bike on asphalt has no prospect of pass on severe terrain.
In the worst possible time it could become a heavy anchor, limiting the possibility of moving to the most remote, and therefore coveted places on the map.
Therefore, have to sacrifice comfort for opportunity. Again, I remind you that is completely universal motorcycle does not exist.

Even with a very passable motorcycle, anything can happen. And I will need to somehow pull it. This is where every kilogram counts.
I feel that within 150 I can manage somehow. Moreover, the difference between a motorcycle of 150 and 160 kilograms is felt quite strongly. Heavier will be a problem, and too light will be bad on the highway.
I want a light touring enduro that has a good engine, is fuel efficient and can haul a load.

Now, in order to find out which of the existing ones fit best, you need to form a few more requirements, namely:

1. It is desirable that the motorcycle be produced by a major manufacturer. This ensures the availability of spare parts and service worldwide.

2. Reliability! Even the fastest and most passable bike becomes a burden if it constantly breaks down.

3. Fuel economy. Given the planned mileage of 150 thousand kilometers, it is easy to calculate how much each extra gram of fuel will cost.

4. Comfort. This concept, in this case, is relative, but still ... an important point.

How to figure it out?

You can, of course, trust some authority and make your choice based on his preferences. But, as it turned out, this is such a specific topic that even among the most experienced motorcycle travelers there are still intense debates, and the truth has not been found.
I decided to find the answer myself. To do this, I have been reading specialized forums for months, where those same disputes are going on, drawing my own conclusions and forming my own subjective opinion.

After reading terabytes of information and spoiling my eyes, out of dozens of more or less suitable applicants, I chose three:



HONDA XR 650 L - Motorcycle legend! The release began in 1992 and does not stop to this day. He himself is a continuation of two no less legendary motorcycles, famous for their indestructibility and sporting achievements, including the Dakar. It is air-cooled, which makes the design simple and therefore reliable. Low compression ratio, allows you to fill low-grade fuel without consequences. "Tractor" engine, high ground clearance and record suspension travel make it one of the best SUVs. If we add to this the low cost of maintenance and the availability of spare parts in almost any region of the world, then we can say that this Honda is almost perfect. Almost ... It raises doubts about its efficiency, behavior on the track, vibrations and oil consumption.

2.BMW G 650 X-Challenge - The model was produced for a very short time, especially when compared with Honda. Production started in 2006 and completed in 2008. He became a victim of marketing. Despite this, the motorcycle managed to gain popularity among fans of off-road travel. He has all the qualities necessary for a real "Enduro-traveler". It has a good off-road suspension with long travel, a high-torque, legendary "Rotax" engine and the ability to confidently move at high cruising speed on an asphalt highway. It has the latest technology where it's needed and holds the record for fuel economy.

3.KTM 690 Enduro - This model can not be called legendary, but the abbreviation KTM says a lot! Motorcycles of this brand make up the vast majority of Dakar participants. For off-road enthusiasts, KTM will provide maximum opportunities. Almost perfect suspension with a lot of travel and precise work, powerful engine, frame. Everything is sharpened for the active driver and works as it should.
Like! - what more could you want? But even here there are some nuances ... The nuances are expressed in users' dissatisfaction with reliability, poor fuel efficiency and the high cost of spare parts.

So:
After dealing with each of them, I decided to go through the elimination process.
I like Honda. I love their romance, because its birth dates back to an era when men were better versed in the number of valves per cylinder than in the number of electronic assistants on a motorcycle.
This is a real piece of iron! Reliable and bulletproof.
But its archaism has significant drawbacks.
An outdated carburetor cannot boast of trouble-free operation and is not at all sharpened for economy. Honda likes to eat a lot. And to the high consumption of gasoline, an increased consumption of engine oil is added. The counterbalance to its excellent cross-country ability will be instability on the track and a too high center of gravity. Of the trinity under consideration, it is the most unfortunate option for long runs over long distances.
What a pity, but you have to cross out.
Now, for a person born in the USSR and accustomed to choosing from no more than two options, the situation is simplified.



Both bikes are great. Both account for hundreds of trips in the most extreme conditions.
How to choose?
In a motorcycle forum, I did a poll - which of the three motorcycles to choose for a round-the-world trip?
The vote showed that the Honda that I crossed out would be preferred by most motorcyclists.
One day on ADVrider I came across some very useful information. The person found himself in a similar situation of choosing between these motorcycles:
Here is what he writes:

My choice of 2 bikes:
BMW G 650 X-Challenge
KTM 690 Enduro-R

The most important criteria are:
Front suspension travel (more = better)
BMW: 270mm
KTM: 250 mm
Rear suspension travel (more = better)
BMW: 270mm
KTM: 250 mm
Maximum power (but I'd rather have high torque than lots of hp)
BMW: 54 HP
KTM: 65 hp
Required engine speed for maximum torque
BMW: 5250 rpm
KTM: 6550 rpm
Curb weight (less = better)
BMW: 157 kg
KTM: 149 kg
Mileage per liter of fuel (more = better)
BMW: ok. 25 km
KTM: ok. 20 km
Service interval (more = better)
BMW: 10,000 km
KTM 7.500 km

One thing I notice when I read forums comparing two bikes is that the KTM has a 6 speed manual transmission (the BMW has 5). I looked at the specs and realized there is no real advantage in a 6 speed transmission. 1st gear with a wide range of speeds is important for overcoming off-road and high (5th) gear for good driving at high speed at low engine speeds.

Maximum speed in first gear
BMW: 7500 rpm - 57 km/h
KTM: 7750 rpm - 60 km/h
Engine speed at 120 km/h in top gear (lower = better)
BMW: 4986 rpm (fifth gear)
KTM: 5350 rpm (sixth gear)
Everything else is roughly comparable. The transmissions from the BMW are all slightly higher than those of the KTM. The second is almost identical, and the third is between the third and fourth on the KTM. Same with 4th gear and as you can see the BMW has a higher 5th gear than the KTM's 6th.
At race pace on the track, the KTM's 6th gear has the upper hand, but in the real world, in normal mode, the BMW's transmission is better.
BMWs are better priced than KTMs, which is another plus point for BMWs.


In my opinion, quite a reasonable approach. Anyway, I didn't have any conflicts.
If we add to the above numerous opinions about the unreliability of KTM and the reliability of BMW, then there is practically no doubt.

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Old 12 Dec 2022
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20.12.2013 The agony of choice. I am buying a motorcycle.

The choice became obvious - I need a BMW G650X Challenge.



Again you have to choose...
Unfortunately, the BMW device I needed was produced only for 3 years (2006 - 2008). So, there is no way to go to the store and buy a new one. And so you want something fresh, not touched by the crooked hands of a mechanic and not spoiled by bad driving.
I have at my disposal the main marketplace in Russia auto.ru Here we usually buy and sell cars and motorcycles.
It turned out the situation with the choice is terrible. X-Challenge can be counted on the fingers.
In Russia at that moment there were only the following candidates:



And that's it..!
One motorcycle with a claimed mileage of 6500 km. Not knowing off-road (according to the owner). For the price of a new bike. It has all sorts of additional options, of which I need only one - an additional gas tank.
The second motorcycle from St. Petersburg with a declared mileage of 7500 km. and a little cheaper. There are also options, the need for which is doubtful for me.
Agreed with the owner of the first and went to watch.
For some reason, "not knowing off-road" was in clay .., and on the engine covers there were traces of motocross boots. The plastic is yellowed, from frequent contact with clay or black soil.
The mileage of the motorcycle was highly questionable. Even more doubtful was the correspondence of the cost to this motorcycle.
What to do? Go to St. Petersburg to see one single instance? I think not the best option, especially considering that he was not particularly impressed by the photo.
There was also a third option, but no one answered the phone there.

In 2006, BMW did something tricky. They put three motorcycles on the market, actually making only one. It's called the BMW G650X.
In fact, this is a single platform on which suspensions and wheels that differ in characteristics are hung. A bit of plastic and here you have three seemingly completely different motorcycles:



Visually, the X-Country is the most different from the X-Challenge. Technically, it stands a little apart from enduro and supermoto, but not drastically.
The main thing that unites these twins is the legendary ROTAX engine! It was because of him that the choice was made towards this model.
X-Moto is closest to the task. It has different wheels (would still have to be changed), front brakes, rear shock absorber (would have to be changed too) and a front fender.
In fact, the differences relate to those details that would need to be changed in the X-Challenge. I don't lose anything!
In addition, the X-Moto is a road motorcycle and has not been off-road, and therefore was operated in a gentle mode.
I'm looking at X-Moto options on auto.ru.
There is one that fits.
So: BMW X-Moto with a mileage of about 2000 km. Looks good on the photo.
Called and arranged
Along the way, I negotiate with a good motorcycle mechanic for an expert review.
Let's go. Here he is..!
At first glance, I realized that it was this motorcycle that would take me across the continents. It's like love at first sight...! I immediately realized that fate had directed me to the right place.
Of course everything was checked. Long and detailed. I probably would not get out of this garage all day, but the manager was standing next to me and I had to respect his time.
The examination found that the motorcycle is excellent and the mileage is similar to the truth.



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