Central America 2013: “Yo soy italiano, no gringo”


Hellò everybody.

Excuse me for my english: I don't use google translator and I'll try to use my limited english skills: any correction wiil be appreciate.

This winter I was looking at the countries wehre I've never been: unfotunately a lot. I began to think to Central America. What I know about Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua Panama etc. ? The language wouldn't have been a problem: spanish is really similar to italian.
First I'd like to explain the title of my thread. During my vacation I ascertained that in all the countries I've travelled a lot of people, at the first touch aren't very friendly. Most of them don't like a lot USA citizens. When I clarified I was italian everything was going easy. You can have similar situations all around the world: in Lituania people don't like Russians. same problem between Chines and japanese. In the 60's there are a lot of problems between Italians from north and from South, when people from South are moving to the North, looking for a job.
I'm here just to tell you my vacation and I'm not able to judge this kind of situations: but this is a fact.
My first idea was to drive up to Yaviza a city in the state of Panama, where the road end, because begin the jungle, the Darien Gap that separate Panama from Colombia.



Setted the arrival point all I could do was find a starting point. As in the past, the cost for ship my bike (Suzuki DR 350) was too high. So I began to look for some motorbike rent. However in every state of Central America Motorbike Shops don't allow you to drive outside their countries. Another problem, the rental rate: very very high. Just in Costa Rica Wild Rider Costa Rica - Motorcycle Rental and Motorcycle Adventure Tours, 4x4 Car Rental, Costa Rica Adventure Tours and more ... was possible find a 45 $/day rent for a Honda XR 250, but just to drive in Costa Rica. Just in April I went in touch with www.mxmotoadv.com and the owner Mr Oscar write to me that he can arrange all the documents to can drive outside Mexico...but the most cheap bike is a Kawasaki KLR 650 for 75$/day. My idea si to drive for 24 day and so with the air ticket Italy-Mexico-Italy at around 780 $ my vacation will start with a cost of 2580$ !!!!!!!!
Unfortunately this is my only chance.
Another thing is that I've got to start from Mexico City: with google maps Mexico City is far from Yaviza 2200 miles. Go and back are 4400 miles this means 183 mile / day. With all the customs, roads and the weather ( hurricane season starts in May) this appears a little bit difficult. At the end I decided to start and drive up to..possible and then come back.
This was my way



Safety: it's dangerous travel overland and alone in this countries ? Loking at statistics seems correct
This is the rank of the 50 most dangerous cities in the world

Most Dangerous Cities In The World - Business Insider
(I read this article in Italy when my vacation was ended)

I've gone and slept in someone of this list

N° 47- Cuernavaca ( Mexico)

N° 20 San Salvador ( El Salvador)

N° 12 – Guatemala (Guatemala)

N° 5 – Districo Central (Honduras)

N° 4 – Acapulco (Messico)

N° 1 – San Pedro Sula (Honduras): 719,447 people and 1143 homicide/year

You can see pictures like this in every city in Central America







It's better to don't take shots at this men (police, security, military) they can get nervous.
You can understand that you aren't in a normal situation if you see a man with a double-barrelled shotgun and body armor that guards a bakery. I've followed some basic rule

1) Just drive with the sun light: criminals work in the night and so in the morning they sleep, wake up in the afternoon, plan operations and begin to work with the dark

2) Avoid to sleep in the big cities: I always was looking for little cities (pueblos) more safety and cheaper



I've followed a spanish course for 3 month and I used 2 road maps






2 guide book
one is the Footprint: at the moment if you have in mind a travel vacation are the best



the other is the Jump To...Central America 2013: this is my personal guide book and this is the book of the tenth anniversry



I started on 05/19/13 and went back on 06/15/13

Expenses

Motorbike rent
Sono partito il 19/05/13 e tornato il 15/06/13
In tutto ho percorso 7328 km
Spese
• Noleggio moto --------------------> 1.813 $ (1368 €)
• Volo Italia-Messico a/r-----------> 791 $ ( 597 €)
• Vitto,alloggio,benzina ecc…----> 1789 $ (1350 €)

Totale--------------------------------4393 $ ( 3315 €)

I'm european citizien and so no vissas for all this countries.
First idea was to rent hte Suzuki DR 600, but Oscar wrote to me that the bike was seriously damaged at the come back from a previous rent. The chance to rent a Suzuki 200 (perfect for me ) wasn't possible due to documents to croos the borders: not possible to prepare. So I had to rent the Kawasaki 650. To have less problems at the custom, we agree to prepare a sale contract, okay just a formal agreement between me and Oscar, but in this way I turn out to be the owner of the bike. With a rented motorbike some border could be very difficult to cross. I did a similar thing in 2010 in India, where sell a motorbike to foreign people is forbidden (except in Mubay I think). All the motorbike shops "sell" the bike to the tourist and "buy" it (for less) when you come back.

I started my vacation from the airport of Bologna with a hand luggage of 20 pounds(9 kg) and a bag of 26 pund (12 kg)



I land in Mexico City at 5 am of Monday withdraw pesos and take the subway. First direction is wrong, but when I get the right direction is working time and the mexican subway became a cage as in the MMA, and you've got to fight for your place, to get in and get out



I arrive at the hostel around 8 am, right in time for the breakfast, included with the bed, for 13 $ (10 €)

Inicio - Hostal Amigo





my roommates are sleeping so I lean my luggage and wend to the Zocalo, the main square of Mexico : is the third most wide square in the world, behind Tien An Men and the Red Square.





For two months in the square ther's a permanent presidium of the teachers, for salary reasons









across the square ther's another presidium: old people are complaining for the cost of drugs



Around 3 pm I met Oscar: he will give me the bike Tuesday (tomorrow), so I'll can start Wednesday.



Chedraui is a hard discount and I have gone there to buy food even for tomorrow.





The streets that bring you to this Chedraui are full of food shops and chicken shops
I've never seen so many





what else can you buy if not chicken ?



Tuesday May 20

No problem with jet leg: I wake up at 6,30 am (the first in my room) and I'm even the first for breakfast



My idea, initially , has been to start from Costa Rica or Guatemala and so in my guidebook,Footprint Central America, I don't have Mexico informations. But I've got my personal guide, The Jump To.. and couple of ideas.
One is to visit Plaza del las Tres Culturas, where in the 1968 (during the Olympic Games) police and Army shoot at the students
The second place is the Azteca Stadium, where in the 1970 (during the World Cup) Italy beat West Germany in an epic semi final 4-3 in overtime. In the stadium ther's a golden plaque that remember this game.




Plaza de las Tres Culturas is just 2 miles (4 km) far from my hostel: I can walk







This is the square of the slaughter and the memorial stone







this place remind to me TienAn Men Square, in the 1989: even here there were students, normal people and after a while the Army come and began to shoot: always ideas scare dictatorships

Reach the Azteca Stadium is a little bit complicated: you've got to take subway and a special train, the Light Train ( Tren Ligero)...no problema I can use the landmark gps of my guide






the ticket machine takes my money, but don't give me the ticket, but one ticket inspector write a special pass, just for me



The Azteca Stadium is impressive: is the third most big in the world, with over 100.000 seats



the golden plaque



the statue dedicated to the "fan"





in the late noon I meet Oscar that deliver to me the bike and explain how to use the air compressor in case of a puncture



In the hostel we define everything, I pay the rent, deposit and he give me a "purchase document", so the bike "is mine". Obviously in the document hasn't the notary signature, but who care ? (Remind this for Costa Rica)
Panniers aren't very big, so I decide to don't bring with tent and rucksack and the heavy hood






finish


very nice the hostel owner: he allows me to park the bike inside



Wednesday, May 22

the start



Immediately the mexican jam says "Good morning italian biker": a driver hit my lateral pannier with his car door. Ok it's breackfast time



my first planned stop is the Maya archeological site of Palenque, 540 miles(1000 km) far from Mexico City. In my first day I stop in Sayula De Aleman

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sayula_...28municipio%29









along the road you can find a lot of traditional and cheap restaurants




Today is very very hot and the engine of my Kawasaki begin to "stutter": damn !!! I get out the highway, looking for a mechanic. After a while the Kawasaki is going better. I take a rest to fill the tank and I notice that unlike in Italy here in Mexico the high octane gas is in the red pump dispenser and not in the green.
Oscar has told me to use just high octane gas. With the tank full of this gas, the bike restart well. I just have stopped to check the temperature level, but a mechanic told me that is normal to see the marker a little bit high when you're driving slow: today ther're 113°F (45° C)



At dusk I reach Sayula De Aleman and the owner of this shop suggest to me a very cheap motel





The motel is called Lena Loca ( Mad Wood): the owner give to me the room 150 mxp = 12$ = 9€..but not the key:" No se preocupe senor" Ok probably ther's some kind of security





A little walk to the "centre" of the city

Coming back to the hotel I rest for dinner :should be cheek lard





Thursday May 23

Before start, a little prayer: the statue is right to my motel. After I look down and I notice again a oil blot in the ground, under the engine. Mhhh maybe a check would be not a bad idea. On the map I see the city of Villahermosa, 500.000 people: there should be a Kawasaki mechanic. The city is just 124 miles (200 km) far from here.







The city is big and wide, but on the bypass I see a Yamaha workshop: the mechanic explain how to reach the Kawasaki dealer




Surprise, is an official Ducati dealer: coffe and air conditioning





The mechanic is too busy, but they send me to in a workshop : the name should be a guarantee



the mechanic is really professional: in a minute understand the problem and begin to work...very very fast



the problem is a consumed seal, but the engine is so dirty that I think that the mechanic in Mexico City have not checked well the bike



the mecahnic find in a shop the original spare part and in 3 hours everyrhing's fine



maybe will be possible reach Palenque to sleep there



Now is low season: no problem to find an accomodation. The cheapest are in the town, most you go close to the archelogical site, more prices rise up




Palenque is well organized to greeting tourists: banks, gym, restaurants, shops.

Palenque è organizzata per accogliere numeri importanti di turisti e quindi si trova di tutto: banche, palestre, ristoranti, negozi per lo shopping



this is a contest of a catering institute

dinner



corn on the cob as dessert



Friday May 24
The archeological site opens at 7,30 am



motel with spa (not mine)





Travelling during the low season allow you to visit the interesting places with peace and quiet. Finally I can really walk through the Maya Empire. It is always exciting to can touch something that you just watched on TV
Here you can find some informations http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palenque

I just can put some pics







It's very early: just now peddler are coming















around 1,00 pm I get out



I begin to plan my first border crossing. My second "scheduled" stop is the archeological sit of Tikal in Guatemala. I have in mind to cross the border at Frontera Corozal, where launches bring tourists and even motorbike across the river





this farmers work in a land trust and own the agricultural land



for lunch this mexican Kentucky Fried Chicken looks great





the owner



a check point



this is a very particular picture



is my last pic with the red wind stopper that I bought last year to travel in Vietnam. At the next check point a military tell to me that one of my lateral panniers is open. The look is broken. In Central America bumps are in every city to limit the speed: probably this is the reason for the damage



I drive back for some miles, but nothing: ok I need another wind stopper. I have bougt it for 40 $(30€): maybe I'll find something similar in Guatemala. I fix the pannier with my elastic rope







At Frontera Corozal (4 pm) the mexican custom is very quick (the bike is mine). I get some gas from a non official gas station: the man asks to me if I need to cross the river with the bike. He's got a launch: the price is 200 mxp = 15 $ = 11 €

cross the river on the launch is really funny

I'm in Guatemala



after the rise take a right and you're in the correct direction



At these little town it begins to rain and I stop in a little bar to drink and change the money. As in Central Asia the rate exchange is very close to the bank rate, and I prefer to travel with local money in my pocket.
I stop even cause I remember the suggestion of Oscar:" Stop to drive if begins to rain, in this part of the yaer begin the hurricane season and with the wind and rain is easy see branches fly on the road"






is a very easy off road...but for me and my pilot skills is demanding





after one hour finally the immigration



Just a little snag: here ther's just the immigration, no custom. What I can do for the bike ? An official tells that ther's no problem. I can get the documents for the bike (temporary import) in the first SAT office, the Guatemala vehicle office. This documents are necessary, because after Guatemala I've in mind to travel in Belize and without the Guatemala documents will be impossible cross the border.

Around evening I reach the city of San Benito. Tomorrow morning I'll go to SAT and then to the Tikali Park
More or less this was my way from Frontera Corozal to San Benito





Hotel Imperial 2 ( probably a motel chain) is ok: 50 queztal ( less then 7 $)






the San Benito movida offers to me a live church show

Saturday May 25

Very early in the morning I'm at the SAT office. It's Saturday, but banks are open so why not the office ? Because the bank is open on saturady..SAT no, even sunday. Ok today I can go to the Tikali Park, visit, come back and maybe find an hotel on the lake and take sunday as rest and plane the travel to Belize and tthen to Honduras, cause I'd like to travel by boat from Belize to Honduras.
Sabato 25 maggio





Let's go to Tikali, there are just 40 miles (64 km) to drive.



Very nice road, no jam, just me and...suddendly I have heard a rumor behind me: what the hell ? The bike begins to ripple and altough I was driving around 50 miles/hour (80 km) instead to brake slowly I've lost the control of the bike. I became a piece of chese and the road the grater. What a pain during the slide.

This is my slide on the road




the bike







me ( the piece of cheese)



some farmers that are working near the road, help me to lift up the bike. I find the neutral , turn the key and push the start: engine is ok. The damage semms to be just on the chassis. A lady stops her car and tells to me that she can call with her cellular phone a mechanic that has a pick up for the bike.
I begin to think to my body (bike first): I've got my medical aid. Is in the pannier...ohh I've lost my first aid, with the red jacket in Mexico. Even my t-shirt is damaged: I bought in India in 2010

It comes the mechanic and in 2 minutes picks up my bike.





We had a stop in El Ramate to a pharmacy: I'm lucky the clerk is a medicine student. He says that is better disinfect wounds: no problem this liquid doesn't burn. Correct, the liquid doesn't burns..sears !

[ur]=http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=4737&u=13013946][/url]



even my travel jeans are wrecked



at the workshop, finally I understand what's has happened. The right lateral stand wasn't well welded and so he had moved away and after went under the back wheel. The front wheel looks as happened a puncture. A son of the mechanic can bring me to San Benito. Instead the private clinics I prefere the public hospital. It's saturday should be really few people. I was wrong. Worst than in an Apple store selling IPhone 5 at 60 $. The waiting room is full of people: womans, childrens, parents, a little chaos
After an half hour a doctor comes to visit me: no visit rooms, just curtains that create different places. With me ther's an old woman with a problem in a foot. The doctor says that first is better disinfect the woundes( ohh no again), stich the hole in my knee and after make some X-ray. I tell to him that I don't think X-ray are necessary: I feel pain, but I can move the leg and bend the knee. The answer of the doctor doesn't allow a reply:" Even I belive that aren't fractures, but belive isn't the guideline of medicine"

Ok: yes sir.

A nurse comes to disinfect and tells to me " Don't worry looks like alcool but doesn't burn" I answer" Ohh because to save money is diluited with water" My mother is a former nurse and in the 60's (to save money) always in the hospital alcool was diluited.
After the doctor snitch my knee




now go to the X-ray room



the machine is 70's style



the X-ray is ok: no fracture. 8 days and will be possible remove the stitches: outside the hospital, in the pharmacy I can buy antibiotic, liquid to disinfect, painkilling etc...
Thanks doctor: how much does it cost visit, and X-ray ? Nothing, in every nation of Central America this kind of healthcare are free, even for tourists

Coming back to the workshop , we had a stop to a supermarket, called MegaPaca: I need to buy a wind stopper, a t shirt and a heat. Suddendly in the store I heard that air conditioning begins to work, but I think is too much: the wedding dresses begin to fall down. It wasn't air conditioning: it's an hurricane and the wind is so strong that employees have to close the doors. Ok hwen begins the rain is better to stop if you're driving.



After 1 hour wind and rain, but my driver tells that in this period of the year can happends even 2 or 3 times a day.
When we come back in the workshop the bike is ok





mechanic asks to me if I can drive the bike: I'm able to drive, because the right knee is necessary just to brakes, is the left food that has to work to shift. I've just to pay attention when I go on the saddle.
I follow him to El Ramate where I find a nice hotel, lakefront for just 40 queztal (5 $). very cloce a grocery sell the ice: I get antibiotic, painkiller, put the ice on the knee and then sleep till 6 pm. Ok tomorrow is sunday and I can use the day to visit Tikali using the bus to reach the archeological site. Half day is enough. It will reamain half day and night to rest and maybe monday I'll can drive again.
In a travel agency near the grocery I buy the bus ticket to Tikali: tomorrow morning at 6 am and he comes back around 3 pm: perfect.


Around 8 pm I go out to dinner: knee isn't bad and the doctor had told me that even snitched I can bend it






Back in the motel , with a pillow I fix the ice on the knee and sleep.

Sunday may 26

The bus to Tikali picks up at 6 am: I wake up early and at 5,15 am I'm ready to the stop. At 6,10 nothing, but I can see some veichle going. After 30 minutes I understand: Guatemala's time is one hour behind Mexico's time. I set the clock of my cellular phone. At 6.00 am the bus arrive: there are 5 tourists.
Before 7 am we reach Tikali



at the entry I buy a map with the monuments



then I chase the main path and walk... I limp towards the Main Square: is something impressive, I'm alone and I enjoy it a lot







distances between monuments, in Tikali are long, but if you have a hole in a knee they can look very very long
Around 9.30 am I rest for a while: the steps are breezy. I sleep for one hour and half. Now, wlaking, I feel the knee's better



In Angor Wat (Cambodia) the jungle wraps up the monuments: here the jungle covers the monuments and sometime they suddendly appear to you













After a rest to drink, I see the signal to the Temple IV: I've seen a lot and for this you've got to climb a very long staircase. Ok, doesn't matter. More or less there are 200 steps. but once at the top I remain open-mouthed. In the middle of the jungle 2 tips of the temples appear to you: amazing







at 2,00 pm I comeback to El Ramate and at 4 pm painkiller and antibiotic and sleep.



At 7 pm I wake up and walk to the lake and I can see something that remind to me the Italy in the 60's: woman are laundering while children are playng and men washing cars



Monday may 27

It takes one hour to prepare the bike, but the knee is going better



I look back at my itinerary: I don't have any informations about ferry service between Belize and Honduras: every day, once a week ? Overland is too long and so I have decided to skip this country and drive to Honduras.



First I've got to go to SAT to get documents for the bike. At the San Benito's office isn't possible: an employee suggest to me to go to the SAT office in San Flores, because it is bigger.




Even here no way to get the documents. Ok I've got to try to explain my situation at the border. Today is a day to use to "familiarize" again with the bike. Is a perfect day: rain and wind. This is a 2 hours stop somewhere in Guatemala




The ground cloth I bought last year in Vietnam is very helpful even if the Kawasaki 650 is bigger than the Yamaha 200 cc Serow





Around evening I stop somewhere near the border, more or less 19 miles (30 km): hotel Escorpion was waiting for me. Just half hour to have a showewrand hang out the clothes and I go out to find something to eat. In a little shop I find canned food: ok in the room I've got water and bread.
Inthe room ther's the television and watching channells availables ther's one that broadcast the Italian Cup Final, between Roma and lazio . Both team are of the city of Rome and ther's a fierce rivalry.
I'm not a soccer fan: I've played for 30 years to american football. But here, outside my country is nice to can watch this match and the broadcasters are fantastic





vince la Lazio: i commentatori sud americani sono uno spasso. Si entusiasmano e riescono a entusiasmare anche con un tiro fuori di 5 metri

Tuesday, May 28



The immigration is very very fast, but at the custom. Luckily, the employee, after have seen the picture of the crossing border mexico-Guatemala, understands and write(for free9 a kind o transit permission, so no problem with the Hoduras custom.




At the Hoduras side, I chabìnge $ with Lempiras. At every border you can find this people (is a regular job) that change money




In San Pedro Sula I've bought the chain spray: yes the most dangerous city in the world. Looks quiet, but 719.447 citiziens and 1.143 homicides...





Inthe afternoon I reach the Yojoa Lake and I eat a fish in a restaurant lakefront: they let you to choose the fish and then they cook it









In the late afternoon I arrive at tegucigalpa, the Honduras capital and I stop to a police station along the city bypass to ask the direction to Nicaragua border, the city of Danli.
The cops are amazing kind and sheperd me up to the right exit



From now I stop to be smart and the mule inside me let me became very stubborn. Is 8 pm and I see a motel. Is an hour motel: 30 $ for 3 hours and 60$ for the night. I continue to drive and a taxi driver tells that ther's a motel near the bus station: should be cheaper. No: 80$. I come back to the first hotel. I don't have enough lempiras. I've got the 100 4 bill, but they don't have the change. Can I use my credit card ? No. Ok I take the bike and drive looking for an ATM. In a bih shopping center I'm able to get the money. The bike is near a McDonald: is good because it starts to rain a lot. Ok once a time in a vacation you can eat in a fast food. I eat and look at my maps. Around 10 pmk it stops to rain Now I've got just to detour on the bypass. After 20 minutes I became a little bit nervous and again the rain, but slowly. I decide to get out the bypass, but when I see a man on a motorbike with his girlfriend I stop. I ask to him if he can bring me to a cheap motel. The first is 20 $, no. Finally he brings me to the Salomè Motel: 8 $ for the room, 2 $ for the parking and 2$ for him= 12$






Good night

Bellissimo anche in inglese! Grande Momi!

__________________
www.advtourer.com

Thursday June 6




I've in mind to drive along Pacific coastline, till Guatemala. If possible I'd like to visit the natural park of El Imposible. I've travelled for just two days in El Salvador, but this little country is amazing from a landscape viewpoint. Unfortunately the country is mainly known due his criminality problems. In the 80's, migrant people from El Salvador began in California to build one of the most dangerous gang in the world: the MS13 (Mara Salvatrucha 13). You can find the first references in the Danzel Washington's movie "Training Day"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MS-13

even the National Geographic channel has made a documentary



Ok everithing that this kind of persons make is unacceptable, but analize how this goups were born, grown and the way in that they run the organization, is interesting. For example their mimicry: but they are criminals.








The hotel Milagro serves breakfast





the little guard dog



my itineraty skips the capital





this girls are using the stop at the fuel station to make up their friend




this is a right place, is safety, because weapons are forbidden



a little diversion to can see the ocean: this country, from surfers point of view is a paradise







this should be one of the best beaches of El Salvador







ok now we are during the low season, but during the high season should be very crowed





again on the road, just stopping if something interesting appears









this tree had fallen down due the wind !!






This part of the road, along the ocean is amazing: sometimes the ocean appears to you after a turn

The natural park El Imposible is near the border with Guatemala: maybe I can sleep in the park and tomorrow afternoon cross the border. I've stopped at this crossroads to ask the direction to the park





I've got to find this road that bring to the park



Salvanatura - Parque Nacional El Imposible

Is very difficult find this road: my map is too little and everibody I've asked for direcion is giving to me different advice. At 1 pm I stopped for lunch. This guys invited me to sit at the table. Obviously me and my motorbike are intriguing and thay begin to ask me where I'm from: ahh ok Italy. After some normal questions one of them asks if is truth that italian womens are "Mas candela !" Italian is similar to spanish and I've studied spanish for 3 months, but I can't understand: what does it means candela ?



With an international gesture (is the last above in the right) I finally can translate Candela



Are italian womens very very hot in the bed ?
Ok now a little break is necessary. I don't think that in the world exist a human race (male or female) better than the other in the sexual activity. In my opinion it depends how much feeling you have with your partner, that can be tall, short, white yellow, orange etc...
When i was young I remember the wedding of a my friend. He was one of the first to get married. During the pre-ceremony cocktail (it has begun since 2 hours), we are speaking about sex ( age average about 23/24 years), sex position etc.. A guy a little bit older ( 28) suddendly tells " This is a little bit disgusting: my wife don't think and don't do this kind of depravity" . I was behind him and remember to had answered: " With you !" He become purple and had gone.

I tell to this guys, that I can't evaluate the passionate nature of the italian womans, but I can explain thei nature.
Typically the italian woman (or girl) is very strong and is the home chief. When an italian man finish to work and comes back home, has to play with childrens, bring out the garbage and the dog: if foodstuffs are necessary the man has to go to the market. The guys look at me as I'm speaking of a population from the space, but the woman that run the little restaurant smiles. The first guy says"Is impossible" "Come in Italy my friend and you'll see it" I answer.

After lunch I try again to find the road for El Imposible. For the umpteenth time I ask to the people. Finally an old man tells to me that the road is next to the right but he suggest to me to don't go to El Imposible. I ask why. He tells that the road is difficult even for a 4x4 car, the road is muddy and I'm travelling alone: a perfect target for pandillas. He tells that normally tourists go to the park with car and security. I remember how emty was the road to volcano Motombo in Nicaragua: it's better go on.
I'm very close to the border with Guatemala: this means I'll have more time, for example, to visit the lake Atitlan
El Salvador/Guatemala border





I arrive around 5 pm at Cinquimullilla: hotel San Carlos

Sorry for the stop of the report, but in this days I'm very busy with the work

Friday June 7

I wake up and decide to let check the knee in Escuintla: it is still a little bit red and blubber.




hospital parking



I wait 10 minutes and when a door open ther's a woman, the doctor. In the same room ther's an old woman, with a problem in one arm. The doctor says that she's got to wait. Ther's still a little bit infection: what ? Since 9 days I've taken antibiotics. She asks to see all my prescriptions.
Her, in this picture ( I've taken in Mexico City) you can see all my prescriptions and drugs at the end of the vacation.



She explain to me the situation: first doctor in Guatemala has given antibiotics and painkiller, but in the drugstore the employee gave me just painkiller. Second doctor , the one that has removed stitches hasen't written antibiotics on the prescription. For 9 day I've taken a lot of drugs, but not antibiotics. No problem she says: now with this antibiotic i'll resolve the problem in fwe days. It was natural for me ask "Are you sure ?" She get up watching me in the eyes: "Yo soy cubana " (I'm from Cuba): you know that doctors of Cuba are probably the best in Central and South America and often are working abroad, as support.












Italy's mark



perfect place where let weld the stand of the bag



now begins the mountains zone near the Atilan lake













Suddendly the road disappears: a big fload has destroyed it







The slush is delicious, but kids have surronded me









low season means fog, but I was born in the Padan Plain and this fog is nothing for me





Finally I reach the lake and God has given to me a 30 minutes break from the rain: so it's possible relax, and get some food







This has been my route around the lake to can reach the panAmerican Highway









Again the rain, but this time I've stopped at a school: interesting because in the morning is a primary school and in the afternoon is a secondary school.



Huaoo no more rain..but even no more pave





at this pump the attendant write a map for me



again the rain, but now I'm on the Panamerican Highway



It's late and so I've stopped in Nahuala. Ther's just one motel, but without the parking. The entry is too much narrow and so isn't possible to bring the bike inside. The owner suggests to me to go to the fireman station and ask if they can keep the bike for the night. The firemen (bomberos) are very nice and not only keep the bike, but even me, because they've got a bed in a room with their equipments. All the firemen are volunteers and it was impossible for me give some money for the room.





for dinner this local Fried Chicken Restaurant is perfect










Saturday June 8

For some minutes I become a honorary firemen





breakfast in the market













I really don't know the name and what's is it, but everibody was eating it





I'd like at least reach the mexican border



today just 180 km (112 miles), but rain, mountains, wind (and a very second-rate driver) don't allow me to drive for more

again the fog





at 3 pm is necessasry a stop at this pulperia and I visit the home of the family that runs the shop



mom and daughter are cooking



this is the daughter: 19 years and a son two years old





after 60 km (37 miles) under the rain I reach the border. On the Guatemala side everything's fine...on the mexican side no. Immigration has been quick, but at the custom the official tells to me that I've got to wait: something's wrong in the motorbike documents. After two hours (I was beginning to conceive the Mexican prisons) it's finisch. The motorbike was bought in Texas and at the time Oscar made the import documents at the border and then had regulated the import at the office in Mexico City. The documents numbers are different from office and border, so the police noticed this difference.



Somebody has told to me that in a nearby motel a room costs 15 $. The owner watch my motorbike and asks 25$: go to the hell. I've driven till Tapachula and for 2 $ a taxi brings me to an Hospedaje ( a cheap hotel): 10 $ for the room






the main square





finally I find the shave soap



Sunday June 9

I've decided to reach Acapulco. In the middle ther's the city of Puerto Escondido. In Italy is a very famous place due this movie





breakfast in this road cafè







In Chiapas checkpoints are very common





at midday the sun is hitting me with a baseball bat. At this pulperia, the old man is happy to can say that he knows two famous italian actress: Gina Lollobrigida and Sophia Loren



Around 3 pm I met this bunch of mexican bikers. They are going to a motorcyclist meeting organized for charity to local population: some days ago an hurricane has damaged a lot of houses

This 9 years old bikers sure is better than me to drive



I hail everybody: I'm goning in the opposite direction



hte damages of the hurricane



first sign to Acapulco



my idea is to rest in Tehuantepec, but the engine begins to sputter and the bike goes slow: I just can use the third gear and I'm not able to ride more than 25 miles (40 km) speed. After some minute I saw the sign to Mixtequilla 2 km ( 1 mile) : maybe a mechanic ? Around 7 pm I'm in the city, ther's a mechanic but it's closed. It's sunday. After few minutes two men with a car arrive in front of the workshop: great they are the owners. " Carburador senor" (carburetor) is the diagnosis. Tomorrow morning they can fix everything. Inthe city aren't motel, but just a kind of "eco lodge": the room is a little bit expensive 18 € = 24 $, but this is my only option










ther's a big dog (doberman) ..but he's fastened to a chain. This is a good thing because very close to the doberman ther's the clotheshorse. I begin to hang my travel clothes when I heard snarl: no problem the doberman is fastened...but in this lodge there are 2 dogs. Obviously the other is free. Despite my hurt knee I'm faster then the second dog to run to the restaurant of the lodge, where the people stops the dog. Ok, for sure I'll go in the city to eat.


the church



the movida in Mixtequilla offers a female volleyball tournement, near the church





dinner







It' going dark, but I heard some music. Now happens one of the amazing moment that sometimes the fate organize for you: thanks bad carburator
It's a parade of a politician candidate to mayor of Mixtequilla





After I've taken some shots with my camera the people sign up me "officialy"







The candidate is Benito Orozco Mendoza and I think he has won http://www.ieepco.org.mx/acuerdos/2013/plamovciu.pdf his party is the Movimento Ciudadano

me and Benito Orozco Mendoza



the candidate parade begins to move along streets and I follow with my motorbike the parade. The soundtrack is "El Pueblo unido jamais serà vencido



this is the staff of the candidate...as in Italy I think too much people=too much salaries



ok: the showgirl isn't bad



a slush



Monday July 10

If mechanic is able to fix the problem in the morning I should reach Puerto Escondido in the afternoon



In the mechanic's workshop there are really any kind of veichle





this guy is an engineer..out of work at the moment



the problem was the carburetor: too much dirty



two hours and everything's fine



breackfast



advertisements here are made by hands: no poster



Looking at the map I had thought to drive along an ocean side road: wrong. It's very sporadic to can see the ocean. The road twist and turn between trees and is up and down on little hills






The motorbike is running well: what can stop me ? A puncture. Perfect place: desert road and an unskilled biker...me. But I've got the glue to repair the tire and a littel air compressor.
After half hour this is the situation: the glue is all around the ground and the air compressor doesn't works.
A guy driving a car stops and tells to me that forward ther's a tyre center (vulcanizador). After he had driven to him he went back: the tyre dealer don't have a pick up to can load the bike and isn't sure to can repair the tyre.
I begin to push the bike when it comes the vulcanizador that tells that his shops isn't far away.
Who knows what's mean in Central America not far away ? 2 miles ? 5 miles ? 20 miles?
I turn on the motorbike: 1st gear, little bit of gas and go ahead. The wokshop is in Copalita: 4 miles (7 km)








same cards as in Italy



the air compressor could not work: too big the hole, look at the nail







Ok and now let me write something about the vulcanizador. This man (67 years old) has 3 wifes and 6 children. For this reason he must work a lot to pay maintenance. Now things are going a little bit better. He discovered that the second wife has 2 lovers. He spoke with this 2 men: "Ok I don't give a damn of this situation, but you've got to donate money for maintenance" Now he hopes that even 1st and 3rd wife could find a lover.



In the late afternoon I'm in Puerto Escondido



A cabanas on the beach: 8 $ ( 6€)



shower and a walk through the town









with a lot of people should'nt be nice, but during hte love season is a relaxing place





this is the pizzeria of the italian emigrant that inspired the movie









An ice cream and some chat to end the evening

Love reading your thread,great and amazing.
Always most enjoyable.
Good luck and always stay upright, Italiano.

Cheers