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2 Jun 2008
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question for Yves and Algeria specialists
Hi there. I have spent much of the past few years walking (strictly on foot, no other transport) with my own camels through Morocco, the Western Sahara, Mauritania, and Mali - over 7000km currently. I was stopped in Niger last year this time due to the civil war. My goal is to make a West to East crossing of the Sahara on foot - I travel without backup but use local guides.
Currently I am restricted to only Libya and Egypt, as Niger is out of the picture. But I have recently been looking - since the border crossing has opened - at walking from Tindouf in Algeria through to the crossing at Dbada. Obviously I need to have long discussions with tour agencies there, but just before I get into the whole process of governments, planning, etc, I wondered if anyone on this forum has contacts in Algeria who are reliable to deal with on advice; especially Saharawi contacts in the East, or Tuareg in the South West? I need to buy new camels, as mine remain trapped in Niger, and also find an agency who can help me organise local guides to walk the various regions between the East and West of the COuntry. I usually use local nomads. You can look at my website to see where I have been at constanttrek » Home. I just thought that this is a good place to get a general overview before making official overtures....
Thanks to all in advance.
Cheers
Paula
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2 Jun 2008
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since the border crossing has opened...
Which border crossing is that?
I've never heard of Dbada - do you mean Deb Deb into Libya? That was another Libyan rumour that came and went.
Organising a long camel trek in Algeria would be no great drama but a desert crossing from Alg into Libya would be. John Hare and the runners got into southern Libya from Niger against the odds but not sure even that is possible now.
I've never been there - and one hears the west of Alg is closed to tourism these days - but I suspect the Saharawi around Tindouf are more refugees with a few goats than camels owners leading the nomad life as some Chaamba and Tuaregs do in the east (not really the SW, I think you mixed them up).
There was some Swiss?? guy coming up through Taoudenni heading for Mk via a corner of Algeria a few months ago doing the '52 jours' thing . I wonder what happened to him.
Ch
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2 Jun 2008
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Hi Paula,
the tricky points had allready be mentioned in the above postings.
- no leagal entry into Libya frm Algeria for Tourists, but may be arrangeable with Libyan Agency and/or Administration
- Western Algeria Tindouf - Touat (Erg Cheche) closed for tourism - normally.
>There was some Swiss?? guy coming up through Taoudenni heading for Mk via a corner of Algeria a few months ago doing the '52 jours' thing
He crossed Erg Chech with official permit (I will meet him in 3 weeks)! So there is a chance to obtain permission but that certainly requires some preparational work and official contacts
Because you will be filming, you might need a press visa in Algeria.
Crossing from Touat to Djanet in Algeria I don't see severe problems. But I suppose you have to stay in the south, the direct way to DebDeb/Ghadamis is closed for tourists.
Yves
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2 Jun 2008
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He crossed Erg Chech with official permit
What was his www again Yves? Did he get into Maroc?
tnx
Ch
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3 Jun 2008
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Chris,
>What was his www again Yves?
Orion-Tour :: Grenzgang durch die Sahara but the map is not correct, from abput Trahaza he went straight to Bordj Fly St. Marie solo, w/o camels. On Algerian side a stock with food and water was prepared for him. Later he joined a caravan towards Tabelbala.
> Did he get into Maroc?
yes, but not as intended overland. The border remained closed, he had to take the plane.
Yves
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11 Jun 2008
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latest from niger..
Niger is considering - looking positive - allowing me to come back in and collect my camels, then walk them back into Mali, and on into Algeria from there. I would infinitely prefer moving the camels North into Algeria from where they are, but like this I can collect all of my baggage, and also my footsteps remain unbroken (pedantic, but there you are). This puts me back into walking North in Mali, near Kidal, which I know is a major issue. But I am excited about having the camels, and I know a lot of Tuareg from the Kidal region who will look after me - and besides, just having the walk back without missing a step will be brilliant.
Chris, this will put me back into crossing at Tessalit - Bordj Mokhtar, and then basically following the route you mentioned before, except I would have thought to go North of Tam? Do you see any issues with this (Algerian side) - The Malian side I can deal with.
Thanks.
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11 Jun 2008
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Hi,
Tessalit - Bordj Mokhtar should be no problem for you backed up by your Mali friends, the border is open.
From there you could walk directly to Tam but there is no grazing ground for the camels or water and landscape is flat and dull (Tanezrouft). I would consider it more interesting to walk towards the Ahnet region which is beautifull landscape and there are still Tuareg nomads (about 400km without grazing ground and water). From there to Teffedest or Immidir as you like. I agree with Chris that the old piste towards Bordj Omar Dris would be very beautifull but I doubt that you will be allowed to go north of Illizi, except following roads. If permitted I would try to cross Erg Issaouane to Ohanet (following the gassi). But the most realistic it to enter Libya at Tin Alkoum ( Djanet-Ghat).
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Last edited by Yves; 12 Jun 2008 at 18:45.
Reason: corrected type: Ghat instead Ghadamis
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11 Jun 2008
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Head for Ahnet for sure. Actually there was a well a couple of hours from BBM. But not much to eat at all.
..."Out of Bordj we spent the night among the dunes near Ifaleg wells (not on the Mich map) where we saw a large camel train leaving after being watered. I never imagined camels out in the utterly barren Tanezrouft ..."
from a 2006 S-File.
To enter Libya at Tin Alkoum would not be so bad at all. All the Fezzan is ahead of you.
Ch
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12 Jun 2008
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I would love to enter Libya at this point, but was under the impression that this crossing was closed?
There has been a change in the contact I was using in Libya - the Austrade representative who has been so helpful has left his post, and Australia now has an official Ambassador there, who I think has more commitments and less time for chicks with camels, so my information is not as reliable.
I was going to contact Arkno tours - have read a few unpleasant posts on here about them, any word?
I appreciated also Andras' comments and contact in Egypt, which I will follow up. I am very interested in a possible crossing at Siwa, even if it involves enough paperwork to sink a camel. I had never intended to walk south of here - although I am fascinated by the idea, I will be both exhausted at that point and it is fundamentally extraneous to what I am doing. That is a whole expedition for another time.
One last - when the visa is acquired for Algeria, is it possible to have extended stay period - ie: 90 days or more?
Regards
Paula
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12 Jun 2008
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Just to clarify, Yves, I am confused about the mention of Djanet/Tin Alkoum and Ghadames as being the same crossing, as unless I have it all wrong they are some miles apart...I was understanding that only the border at Deb Deb and Ghadames is open?
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