Tetouan east on N16 along the coast

[Two Stroke Cat]

Hi,
need some advise.
We're on 2x DR's ( 650 & 800 ) and have our first stop in Tetouan on 12.th September.
Looking at the map we do fancy the coastal road east N16 from Tetouan to Beni Boufrah.
We will aim towards Fes area and across the High Atlas mountain area afterwards.
The question is - is it safe to use this route now because I read in Chris Scott's book to avoid the Rif area ( 2.nd edition from 2013 ) if possible?
We're confident riding off piste. Are there any suggestions what routes to take?
Reiner

[Chris Scott]

I would have thought the N16 coast road will be an interesting ride
Always meant to try it myself.
On the way south to Fez it looks like you can avoid Ketama (hash central) by taking the N8 to the east.
Never been there either, but it's more the hassle and attention you attract by wandering into this area, than any danger.

[Two Stroke Cat]

Thanks Chris for your comment.
I had the same thoughts on the N8 east road you suggested.
We will give it a go and report back in this forum.
BTW - your book Morocco Overland is a treasure of information !
Been to Marrakesh 4 years ago with my wife and hated it.
But, there is a different side to Morocco we will find out soon.

[Chris Scott]

As big 'oriental' cities go, Marrakech is over-rated beyond a day or two.
You will enjoy that coast ride and the south for sure.

Check out the free updates in the 'Morocco 3' signature below, and when you get back, why not full out a trip report for next year's AM Handbook.

[Peter Girling]

Driven through Ketama several times on the R509 en route to Fes. It's in pretty good condition and you'll make good progress. You'll get hassled to buy kif if you stop in town, so just keep going. Just be sensible where you stop for a break.

Happy trails,

Peter

[PanEuropean]

The N16 between the two points you mentioned is a major highway. I rode it in February 2019 on my Honda ST 1100 (not exactly an off-road bike) and had no problems at all (other than keeping the bike under the speed limit).

Lots of services and towns along that road, very nice scenery. You might run into some road construction - the Moroccans are doing a lot of work to improve that coast road - but other than that, it's a walk in the park.

Michael

[markharf]

Originally Posted by Peter Girling

Driven through Ketama several times on the R509 en route to Fes. It's in pretty good condition and you'll make good progress. You'll get hassled to buy kif if you stop in town, so just keep going. Just be sensible where you stop for a break.

Hmmm. Nine or ten years ago I had an excellent New Years Eve dinner at your place, Peter, for which I'm eternally grateful!

A couple of weeks later I rode from Fes north thru Ketama. As I entered town, a couple of kids jumped out in front of my bike hoping to stop me at their iittle shop; within town itself the road was flooded with soupy mud from recent rains; as I left town a bunch of guys in a beat-up sedan variously tailgated, pulled very close alongside, and jammed on brakes just ahead of me, all the while yelling out the windows about, I assume, their superior product.

None of it was malevolent, and it didn't feel dangerous like, say, riding around in drug-producing areas of Mexico, but it wasn't pleasant. I considered myself fortunate not to have hit one of the kids or slipped in the deep, soupy muck. Gas up and stretch your legs before leaving the government-controlled area, then again after transiting.

On a positive note, the Rif mountains are nice, and you won't be overwhelmed by swarms of Lonely Planet-toting travelers there.

Hope that's helpful.

Mark