Mgoun valley to Ait Bougemez (Happy Valley) via Tizi n’Aït Imi

[famous_walker]

Early February this year 2017 we attempted crossing from Rose Valley (Kelaa M’gouna) to Ait Bougemez (aka Happy Valley) via Amejgag, then two high passes Tizi Fougani* (3010 m) and Tizi n’Ait imi (2905 m). Toyota landcruiser hj61, single vehicle.

We’d done some research, and found out there’s a new piste built in 2015-2016 over Tizi n’Ait Imi. There’s little about it anywhere on the internet, certainly not much in English. Here on the forum the few related posts were dismissive of the idea of even trying it. Indeed, until recently there was only a mule track over that pass. But the sources we’ve found were confident that the piste was there and it was smooth, wide and fast. So we decided to try and see how far we get. Also, the google earth views looked promising.

We drove up to the village of Alemdoun on tarmac, overnighted at the gite d’etape, and the following sunny morning set off. Tarmac goes off west after the village, and our way was north so it’s piste from this point on, north to the nearby village of Amejgag (3 km away). From Amejgag maps give two options: a winding uphill/downhill to Ameskar, or a bypass following the gorge, both rejoining after 5-7 km. We chose the gorge piste - and that’s a beautiful route. Not difficult at all when we did it, only one place where you cross a shallow stream. I can imagine though the entire gorge can become one big torrent when the snows are melting, hence probably the alternative route over a big mountain. Anyway, the gorge section was so good it could be raced in 5-10 min.

Coming out from the gorge on the northern end we rejoined the well-beaten piste taking us along the narrow valley of Ameskar and past picturesque High Atlas villages. There are several gites d’etape there, probably actively used by hikers in summer. There was lots of ice down at the corners of the valley hidden from the sun. We nonetheless continued without any snow on the actual piste until a serpentine climb took us up to Tizi Fougani*, the first high pass. The piste here looked recently built using proper road construction equipment - bulldozer tracks were visible, and the surface was smooth. A guardian at the top of the pass emerged from his cabin, to inform us that the next pass (Tizi n’Ait imi) was closed. He could not explain why. But we’d seen no obstacles so far and decided to continue as far as we could.

Driving down the winding piste on the northern side we soon came across small patches of ice on the road. Crossing them carefully, after about 10 km we descended into a valley of El Mrabitine (possibly another name is used for it too , but that’s how a local villager referred to it). On maps and on google earth you will see several winding tracks in that area - we were aware of that, but we thought that the newly constructed one would be obvious and we would stick to it without difficulty. And that proved to be the right thinking. No questions with route finding. Besides, at some point during this winding descent from the first pass you begin seeing the second pass clearly on the opposite slope, to your left.

The villager also told us the second pass was not possible. But he also couldn’t explain why. We could now see it clearly going up to the top, without a single sign of snow - it’s a south-looking mountain slope. There was however plenty of snow on the 4000 m summits all around.

We then continued west along the valley (showing green on goole earth, so possibly really green in summer) until the brand new piste started climbing up to Tizi n’Ait Imi. The piste looked ideal, but not a single car on it, and not a single wheel track.

Wondering why, we soon came across a landslide blocking the road, about 1 km before the pass. The blocked area was about 10 m long only. With a sunny day still beginning we took spades out, determined to get through. If that’s the reason for the pass to be “impassable” we thought, we won’t be the ones to turn back here. Indeed, after 40 min we’ve dug our way through.

Then, after one last km of a very good empty piste we approached the pass. Alas, the 1,5m-high pile of snow at the crest, followed by at least 300 m of snow-and-ice-covered piste on the shady side of the mountain, was an obstacle we could not argue. Down the northern side I could clearly see Ait Bougemez and the village of Tabant, only 7 km away. The piste is there, so in a warmer time of year it would be a breeze. I even contemplated shovelling our way through the snow, but we hardly had any time left as the sun was now approaching the peaks of M’Goun, and soon it would be dark and cold at 3000 m. So we turned back. Late evening we were at a nice auberge in Dades valley.

Conclusions:
-the piste from Rose Valley to Happy Valley must be doable in a warmer time of year. Much of it is new and good quality, with a few rocky sections around Ameskar. The landslide will surely be cleared soon.
-Route finding is easy, as long as you’ve well familiarised yourself with the area with the help of google earth and detailed GPS maps. Follow the only piste which looks like recently constructed. From Tabant going the opposite direction the piste begins right outside the village.
-tackling this or any mountain roads in the High Atlas you must be confident of your mud-and-snow driving skills (we are) and have a worthy vehicle. Trying to fly over an ice or snow patch at high speed may result in your vehicle sliding sideways into the abyss. We’d seen that almost happen elsewhere in the High Atlas to an unfortunate 4x4 tourist driver.
-if the piste is open it can be done in one go, as it’s only about 45 km from Alemdoun to Tabant. Check the weather and plan to arrive before sunset.
-necessary equipment in our case was a good ergonomic spade and a jack to get through the landslide (forgot to mention it took us 2 hours to get back through it on return).

Peter

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*I’ve doublechecked the name of this pass using several maps. There appears to be some confusion between a Tizi Fougani and Tizi n’Ait Ahmed (more than one spelling of the latter, too). In any case, the one we’ve crossed is at 31° 31.545'N 6° 16.190’W. Please correct me if I’ve got the names wrong.

[TheWarden]

Great report, thanks. Sounds like one I'll have to try at some point

[Tim Cullis]

There was a discussion on TripAdvisor of all places about the new piste driven from the north over Tizi n'Ait Imi. The Argentine contributor had driven over the Tizi and beyond in April 2016. I could clearly see the piste on satellite images and, like you, I was able to trace a good route from the south as far as El Mratibine. There was an unclear section to the west of the village where the only route seemed to be along the river bed but it seems from your report that this is ok.

I'm in Morocco at the moment but more snow is forecast for the end of this week. ;(

[famous_walker]

Tim,

Much of that new piste that goes along the valley of El Mrabitine doesn’t actually enter the “green” area visible on Google Earth. I’d also been sceptical about having to drive through somebody’s fields and gardens, but the new piste avoids all that. Instead it approaches the green valley at 31° 35.679'N 6° 18.139’W, then follows it’s edge westwards for 1,5 km, then continues further west following the riverbed indeed for about 1,5 km before beginning to ascend to Tizi n’Aït Imi. Much of it is visible on good earth.

It is true that the bit along the river bed was the least “constructed” - perhaps because a separate construction unit would be necessary to build the concrete bridge-dam road resistant to flood.

Our experience with the “riverbed” section was easy. The piste is obvious, well-beaten and goes in a straight line. The only crossing of the stream we had to do at 31° 35.643'N 6° 19.104'W was nothing to speak of. That was after a month of dry weather so perhaps different on a rainy day, but then you won’t venture into that area at all if it’s raining/snowing - definitely won’t be able to get that far on a wet muddy piste. One has to keep in mind that the valley of El Mrabitine is at around 2250m, and may well be buried under snow and ice for continuous periods in winter.

Peter

[Mark hadley]

Just to give me a feel for this. I've got an Iveco 5 tonne 4x4. Is the pass wide enough and without overhangs? when you had to go back coudl you turn around or did you have to reverse several kms?

[famous_walker]

Mark,

The new section of the piste (more or less from Ameskar to Tizi n’Ait Imi, and probably all the way down to Tabant) should be wide enough to comfortably turn around. That includes the spot at the top of the Tizi where we had to U-turn.

There are narrow bits in the gorge near Amejgag, but that’s possible to bypass by taking the uphill-downhill piste running parallel, visible on google earth. But then I don’t think the gorge is too narrow for your vehicle.

Also, the section a couple of km before and after Ameskar is older piste, with various diversions. Some sections of it appear to have been recently washed out and bypassed (we could see where the actual piste deviated from what we’ve traced on google earth). The piste also goes through the village, but again I can’t recall too narrow places.

I’ve posted a similar account of this traverse on my livejournal page with photos, see link below in my signature.

Peter

[Chris Scott]

Snow, as predicted. Not much but howling winds are making a bitter wind-chill to keep everything icy.
This is 6am in Imilchil (2200m) - an anagram of ‘Im chilli’.

[priffe]

I live in a cold country but never been freezing like I did in the Atlas.

[Chri8]

We did the piste one week ago. From Tabant it is as good you can imagine, whatever car can make it to the Ait Imi (we saw the smallest type of rental car coming down). In the other valley there are still some works going on.

[NB64]

I did yesterday. Easy in July on an xr650r. Really excellent and enjoyable! I reckon it will become a classic route across the Atlas.

[Chris Scott]

I think so too; looking forward to trying it myself.
Not often we get a new piste.

[NB64]

https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=18662432

[NB64]

I've just added the Wikiloc link of the routes I did. At some point I made a slight mistake at Alemdoun. Just turn right in the village and head towards Amejgag. I carried on past the village and went up a hill to the west. Doesn't make much difference if you miss it.

[Chris Scott]

Thanks for that. Does the tar end at Alemdoun?

[NB64]

Yes.