Got through
Hi Margus,
how's your trip, did you get into Ethiopia, and what about the story about them asking a recommendation from your embassy to get a bike into the country ?
I'm in Sana'a, but the funny thing is, in just a few weeks I've had a slightly different experience than you. I'm going to explain here for anyone interested in goign to Yemen, but that also means that the situation may still be completely different in a few weeks.
The border crossing was easy, they didn't ask for any road tax. They asked 2 OR for the insurance, but I gave them 1.5 and they were happy.
In Mukhalla, the tourist police told it was Ok for me to ride solo to Hadramout, not even a permit was required. Instead, at every check point the policem called Mukhalla and asked if I was OK to go. No prob at all in Hadramout, the police manager in Seyoun said I was Ok to go around alone as well, Shibam, Tarim, Wadi Do'an, all cool, no escort needed. I didn't feel there was a need for it either, even with all the AQAP rant.
The inland road to Sana'a was still closed so I had to get back to Mukhalla, back at the tourist police where they told me I could just ride it through to Aden. I was a bit skeptical about it, but I left pretty early anyway, and as I expected at the first check point 20km down the road they stopped me and called for an escort (waited 1h).
I changed the escort mid-way, and after lunch left with a police car with 4 armed cops. Then somewhere on the coastal road in the middle of nowhere we've been stopped by 2 guys from a local tribe armed with Ak-47 who discussed with the police for 15 min. Then they, uh, firmly "invited" me (and my escort) to their village 500m off the road. There I was served tea in the shade of a tree while the cops where talking on the cell phone (good thing there was a coverage!). And there was a lot of arguing in Arabic with a dozen or so armed locals, who apparentily didn't all agree about the next steps. Finally after 2h of negociation, I was free to go. The police was never in trouble themselves, but they stuck to me and didn't get wound up into a fight, they calmly talked them out of kidnapping a foreigner. I think that was the right thing to do, but it was a bit difficult to know what was going on as nobody was speaking any English. But as long as I kept a low profile, and quietly drank my chai, I wasn't hassled.
Back on the road there were 4 or 5 military vehicles and an officer welcoming me with a proud "no problem", but we all very quickly got the **** out of there, this time with enough firepower to scare away the disgruntled locals.
Aden to San'a was cool, just a road permit needed. In Sana'a I was interviewed by the head of the tourist police, asking me what I thought about the "incident"... well, what should I say, I got through didn't I ?
Bottom line is, I wouldn't quite recommend the trip although it's entirely doable, and Yemenis are pretty nice altogether (when they wear daggers and not AK-47).
Cheers,
Laurent
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