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Photo by Marc Gibaud, Clouds on Tres Cerros and Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia

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Photo by Marc Gibaud,
Clouds on Tres Cerros and
Mount Fitzroy, Argentinian Patagonia



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  #1  
Old 19 Sep 2012
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950 "high mileage"
Well, there's "miles" and miles.

Mine has 47k KM and has see ALOT of off-road, never out of 3rd gear riding.

They're wonderful. Fun. Capable (always reminding you that the weakest link is the fool holding the handlebar) and great all-rounders.

Like the "OLD" GS they have a few niggles that can be addressed a la @Wantok describes (and I have). I'd add the VRR for remote travel (a problem on MANY bikes !), and a Fumoto oil valve to make oil changes quick and (not) dirty. With each year from 2006 the niggles are more & more addressed at delivery.

Once those are addressed . . . it's pretty much free wheeling fun. The exception is to see the necessity of a valve adjustment after the initial one, though it's a PIA to check.

What other bike's rider is grinning so much on such an ugly bird !
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Old 21 Sep 2012
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I have an 07 with ABS.
In this post I read that the back brake can be a problem even when the TSB was resolved. I have experienced this myself. Because the ABS bikes have the ABS switch, which requires one to think ahead of time, we all make one error time after time. That error is; We forget to turn off the ABS when we hit dirt. Braking on the dirt with ABS, activates the unit. This in turn forces what air bubbles are in the main unit under the seat to travel down the line to the rear caliper. This is the 1st problem.

2nd problem: Dot fluid attracts moisture. The rear reservoir has a piss poor seal and generally will let air in and out at the right hand side Phillip screw head. When you are hot dogging about and heating up the rear brake, you literally boil the moisture in the fluid causing air bubbles in the line. Over a long time this builds up and a bleeding is in order.

Use high temp 700F fluid, squeeze the calipers for your final action before butting up the systems and do not ride in dirt with ABS on. Following these suggestions have made my brake work every time for thousands and thousands of care free miles.
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  #3  
Old 27 Oct 2012
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My KTM - admittedly the 990 Adv - has done 53,000 completely trouble free miles. I did fit the Oberon slave cylinder and the BDCW side stand re-locator to try and avoid any problems.
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  #4  
Old 13 Jun 2013
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100,000 miles...or more?
Food for thought.

The Original: KTM 950 Adventure Bike

The Great Adventure !
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  #5  
Old 21 Jun 2013
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Fumoto valve
Quote:
Originally Posted by Genghis9021 View Post
and a Fumoto oil valve to make oil changes quick and (not) dirty.
Does this fit to the sump drain, that pretty inaccessible oil tank drain, or both?
I looked at the Fumoto website and it has just one of their models of valve recommended for this bike - maybe this valve fits both locations on the bike (if the thread is the same dia and pitch)?
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Old 21 Jun 2013
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Fumoto F109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkabout View Post
Does this fit to the sump drain, that pretty inaccessible oil tank drain, or both?
I looked at the Fumoto website and it has just one of their models of valve recommended for this bike - maybe this valve fits both locations on the bike (if the thread is the same dia and pitch)?
The LC8's are dry sump motors like most modern engines. So, as you may know, very little oil comes out of the sump.

Therefore the "quick drain" valve goes on the oil tank, out of harm's way. A length of line, perhaps a small bit of grinding/filing and some have used a few washers to ensure good access to the valve switch.

Mine works great !

Quick Change Oil Valve
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Old 21 Jun 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genghis9021 View Post
The LC8's are dry sump motors like most modern engines. So, as you may know, very little oil comes out of the sump.

Therefore the "quick drain" valve goes on the oil tank, out of harm's way. A length of line, perhaps a small bit of grinding/filing and some have used a few washers to ensure good access to the valve switch.

Mine works great !

Quick Change Oil Valve
Thanks.
I couldn't see a deal of advantage for draining the sump but it's a whole different game for the tank.

I see you got the one with a nipple for attaching the drain hose.
So a washer, or two, allows the valve handle to point in the best direction for future operation of the valve.
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Old 21 Jun 2013
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Shims/Washers
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Originally Posted by Walkabout View Post
Thanks.
I couldn't see a deal of advantage for draining the sump but it's a whole different game for the tank.

I see you got the one with a nipple for attaching the drain hose.
So a washer, or two, allows the valve handle to point in the best direction for future operation of the valve.
Yep. you still use the fiber washer that's beneath the sump drain bolt and then enough thin washers/shims for orientation.

Very reliable fixture - used by nearly every car manufacturer.
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