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14 Dec 2015
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So I went for a long (1,000km) ride this weekend. Here's my observations:
General lack of power - the throttle response is very poor, pretty flat really. Doesn't pull like I believe it should. On Saturday, it topped out at only 110kph and rpm was maxing at about 5k. The next day, after rev'ing the heck out of it, the revs got up to 7k max where it started coughing but at least the top speed improved again (150-160kph) but still very poor throttle response over the full range. The mechanic had said he'd only adjusted the air/fuel mix by 1/4 turn for slight fuel increase as apparently exhaust popping is due to lean mix?. At low speeds, its 'ok' but the problems are more noticeable at mid/higher speeds. It felt a bit like riding a 4 cylinder bike which was only running on 3 cylinders. (have since discovered a reason for this - tank had accidentally been left on 'reserve' by mechanic hence I suspect some crappy fuel got into the carb)
Fuel economy is bad - this weekends long run returned only around 14km/L. As mentioned below, this should be up around the 20 mark.
Aftermarket exhaust - very noisy and pops like hell on deceleration. My riding friends even experienced some 'spray' on their visors when riding behind me and saw a little smoke and actually a flame on deceleration which although quite cool, is not really desired..
Valves - have been adjusted
Oil/filters - have been changed
Battery - new
I've read about various elements that can wear out in the carb on these bikes and that the top end sometimes needs to be overhauled at this mileage however my mechanic doesn't believe these should be so worn at this stage. Unfortunately I don't have a proper work space here and my decent tools are all back in UK so can't do much personally.
Last edited by MikeS; 14 Dec 2015 at 17:10.
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14 Dec 2015
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You're going to have to start with a compression test..
Is there a diagnostic port in the 640 ? I can't remember..
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14 Dec 2015
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Yup, I requested that be done...still waiting
Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
You're going to have to start with a compression test..
Is there a diagnostic port in the 640 ? I can't remember..
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14 Dec 2015
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From your description it almost sounds like whoever did the valves got them set at 180 degrees off. Or ... it also sounds like a throttle limiter or throttle stop/restricter has been installed. (they do this in countries where younger folk have HP limitations so throttle is limited to Half or less)
So ... recheck valves making sure clearances are correct when at TDC on compression stroke. Lots of guys on the DR650 forum get this 180 wrong. Bike runs ... but runs like poop.
Easy to check on throttle. Have someone operate throttle while you look in at Carb. Once its wide open, turn throttle actuator and see it it will go further or is it on the stop? (as it should be)
Something is most definitely WRONG with your engine or carb. I suppose it could be electronics but that would be weird indeed. (and rare)
Try to go through everything step by step. Get onto KTM 640 forum, maybe someone can help. Very strange goings on.
Good luck 
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15 Dec 2015
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Haha yes, I actually did that with my DR650, very quickly realised and sorted it lol. No restrictor, that was clearly from some crap in the bottom of the tank I think. First, we are going to check the timing and advance to see what's going on there.
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19 Dec 2015
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Something is very off with that bike... First thing is to pull tank off and have a look at the carb... You can get at most carb wear items without removing the carb from the bike... First off pull the plastic cap off the top of the carb and remove the slide and inspect the diaphragm for defects... Have a look at your jet needle, make sure it has the metal washer on the bottom and the 2 plastic sandwich washers in place... The Jet needle sometimes will wear so much that it will break in 2... With a 17 mm wrench to unscrew the bowl plug you can then access the main jet with a right angle screwdriver and a bit of fiddling.. Take the main jet and the tube washer out and then you can pull the plastic slide guide up through the top of the carb... Inspect the slide guide for wear by looking at the wear indicator depressions on the slide running surface... Look at the needle jet{emulsion tube} to see if it has worn oval and check that the o-ring is in place on the bottom of the slide guide... All this can be done with the carb on the bike... also check the main jet #, it should be between 152.5 and 160, any larger than that usually causes an overly rich condition.. It has happened before where the pilot jet has rattled loose and found sitting in the bottom of the float bowl..
Like I mentioned before, issues with the fuel pump can also cause problems...
Last edited by Island Hopper; 20 Dec 2015 at 03:08.
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4 Jan 2016
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Have you wired your USB into the clock loom ??
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4 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Have you wired your USB into the clock loom ??
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There's a standard accessory socket on the front panel
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4 Jan 2016
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If your lights are dimming its due to voltage drop. Due to a drain which the circuit can't support or a bad earth. Try it with the engine running.
Some USB devices can perhaps pull more juice than KTM intended.
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4 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
If your lights are dimming its due to voltage drop. Due to a drain which the circuit can't support or a bad earth. Try it with the engine running.
Some USB devices can perhaps pull more juice than KTM intended.
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I'm not sure it's that. This happened when it was plugged that one time and ever since even when nothing is plugged in.
The time display disappearing is just weird too, I mean why not the odometer or trip readings too as they all display in the same part of the screen
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4 Jan 2016
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Gremlins. You need an exorcist.
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Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.
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4 Jan 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted*
Gremlins. You need an exorcist.
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My money's on aliens
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7 Mar 2016
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.
Last edited by MikeS; 22 Oct 2019 at 04:27.
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7 Mar 2016
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Nice work Mike! Beautiful bike! Worth the investment I'd think. 
De-Cell popping is normal but really noticeable when running a loud pipe. Ditch that pipe! Changing jetting can alter popping but for the most part it will be there
no matter what.
Best look to 640 experts for suggestions on opening air box, changing needle and re-jetting. If done right, the BST40 carb has a lot of potential to get the most out of your bike ... and still get decent fuel economy. Lots of options. 
There must be other pipes you can run that breath well but aren't obnoxious.
Good luck, keep an eye on the head gasket, rockers and valve clearance.
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14 Mar 2016
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Got a FCR 41 installed some weeks ago on my 2002 640 Adv, a much better bike!
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