Hi Dean, do you use the rebound and compression adjusters on your standard shock at the moment? Do you adjust the spring preload on it when you ride laden vs unladen?

If not, there's not much point going for an Ohlins. Just get a smart suspension guy to install matching fork + shock springs for your weight, usage and riding style.

Ohlins/Penske/WP will only do what you tell it to do. They are better shocks, yes; but they will only perform based on the settings you select (Comp, Reb, Preload). On my bike, I change the settings of my shock & forks for different temperatures, different surfaces, and when I run different tyres. EG, in hot weather, I up the compression and add a touch of rebound; cold I back both off in the forks as freezing cold air chills the forks, and thickens the fork oil, essentially increasing the damping (comp+reb) settings a few clicks. Rough road surfaces with a harder compound tyre I back off the settings a little to allow for a stiffer tyre carcass; on softer tyres that have more pliable carcasses I stiffen the settings up.

I know what good handling feels like, and I know what the clickers do; so when I'm not happy with the way my bike is handling I know what settings to adjust to get it right. This is the difference between stock stuff and Ohlins/Penske/WP - the stock Showa kit on my CBR600RR & 1000RR was frustrating as it wouldn't stay consistent - the valving, oil passages are made to a price point - when the oil viscosity changes, my damping changes... a lot. This isn't acceptable to me. I don't want to be half way through a track day battling it out having my rear end going soggy on me. I'm not going to pull over to click more compression into the rear and then blast out again. I want the damn shock to damn well stay consistent from beginning to end.

Another thing that annoys me is the rubber membrane in the stock stuff. The gas leaks through it and mixes with the oil, making what we call a 'milkshake' shock. The shock works the gas into the oil after riding for a while and it becomes foam, and voila - you've just lost any damping. The shock body depends on oil for cooling, and the shock piston is thrashing the hell out ofthe gas-riddled foamy mix, the shock body overheats, the piston scores the daylights out of the bore, the shaft welds itself to the seals and blam - bits break.

Ohlins/Penske/WP kit has a metal separator between the gas and oil, this keeps the oil and gas from mixing and your milkshake foamy mayhem from happening. Non-milkshaked oil keeps the shock properly lubricated and cooled, and thus prevents premature failure.

However, bang for your buck, if you don't use your adjusters, and you don't subject the bike to brutal punishment, the best solution is this:

1. Matching springs front + rear
2. Fork oil change
3. Learn to use your standard suspension clickers

If you are an experienced rider, and the stock kit does not offer you the adjustment you want, and (like me) you do notice the difference between the stock kit and aftermarket, then get someone to build up Ohlins/Penske/WP kit. Make sure you fully tell them as much detail about the application you will be using the bike for, the anticipated loads etc, and make sure you get their assurance that the shock is built with the correct internals for the kind of abuse you wish to dish.

If in doubt, email an Ohlins distributor or Ohlins technical support directly. They can suggest shims & bits and you can pass that info on to your Ohlins supplier to order from Ohlins and build you the shock that you need.

Edit: if you can get the stock shock professionally revalved and reconditioned for a cheap price, this is also a good option for the budget conscious. However, if it approaches 2/3 of the price of an Ohlins/Penske/WP, don't waste your money and try to polish a turd. Spend the bit extra and get a quality shock, that's properly set up.