WATCH OUT: we were very seriously warned by local Georgians in the mountains of Adjara (southern Georgia) about camping in the wild. I walked 200 m at night in the forest to go to the car from the house we were staying and the day after they said: ARE YOU MAD??? Never do it again. Due to jackals especially, and wolves and bears attacks. Apparently it is a REAL THREAT. Again, while changing money at the border post Guguti (GE)-Gogavan (ARM), it was after dark and we could hear the "beasts". -Jackals? -Yes. -Problem, danger? -No problem. -Here no problem, there problem (pointing out of the village). The guy stands up, moves hands and says: YES, YES, big problem. So be really careful about camping in the wild in the mountains there, ask first.

I personally enjoyed a lot Vardzia, since I had read about it a in book by Kapuscinsky. A city digged in the mountain, exposed after a side of the mountain fell following an earthquake. Georgian and Armenian churches and monasteries are amazing (especially considering the old times when some were built). Tbilisi is a lovely city to stroll, very charming.

Happy travels,

Esteban

EDIT: Borders GE-ARM were open in summer 2010, I assume it remains the same. We got to that border by mistake, a quite small post, not the BIG one and I would not use it: we did not cross a car for 45 min on that road, it looked kind of weird and I did not feel it very safe late at night (just a feeling). ARM officials were stupid.