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14 May 2007
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Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Alt Penedes, Barcelona
Posts: 130
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Thanks a lot !
I'll talk with the Toy guys about all your points and let you know. After all, they do prepare the hdj's for the Dakar and should know what they are doing.
But charge quite a lot an hour so I'll let my local mech take care of the easy stuff, if the is any.
The injectors only got about 40.000 kmts. So I think I'll do the following:
1- fix the leak at exhaust manifold
2- check valves
3- check wheel bearings, CV's, etc..
4- remove the medium (big one) exhaust silencer
5- use new A.T. fluid
6- check filter at A.T. and clean the sump.
7- increase a bit turbo preassure
8- ajust the I.P.
The engine sounds great, and I'm afraid checking the big bearings would be real nice but not essential ?¿¿.
Reading what you guys say about I.P. vulnerability I learn it would be great to get a PREFILTER Racor 500 FG , I guess is the one Gil talks about.
-- Do I really have to open the engine in order to check the bearings ( or just asking them politely about their well being is enough ) ???
-- Can a mechanic, non-familiar with hdj80 12v, do the valve job, since the shims thing ???
-- does the I.P got to be removed in order to be ajusted ???
I had, have, Land Rovers (and used to work in a remote place) so I'm kind of used to check everything. I fact I got myself an 80 just for the pleasure of it , I rarely had problems with the LR, perhaps, (who knows) because they are Santana. I just find the LR's beautiful and Toy effective.
Thanks for the lessons !
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14 May 2007
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Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ledbury, Herefordshire, UK
Posts: 324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armadillo
5- use new A.T. fluid
6- check filter at A.T. and clean the sump.
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A couple of things about the auto box. Firstly when you drain it you will only get around 5-6 litres out, not the full 9 (or 12 litres) that are in there, do measure what you take out and put the same amount back in.
If the old oil is blackened much or smells of burning, it is advisablle to drive a couple of hundred miles and then do the change again - this should get enough clean fluid to dilute the degraded stuff.
If you don't have any lumpy muck in the oil when it it drained there is little point in dropping the pan to look at the filter which is just a fine metal mesh.
Quote:
Originally Posted by armadillo
Reading what you guys say about I.P. vulnerability I learn it would be great to get a PREFILTER Racor 500 FG , I guess is the one Gil talks about.
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Depending on where you are going you are best off spending the money on a couple of spare toyota (don't buy cheap 3rd party ones) fuel filters.
Quote:
Originally Posted by armadillo
-- Do I really have to open the engine in order to check the bearings ( or just asking them politely about their well being is enough ) ???
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The only way to check them is by dropping the sump - if you only have 40k miles on the clock I wouldn't worry about it - just make sure you use decent oil in it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by armadillo
-- Can a mechanic, non-familiar with hdj80 12v, do the valve job, since the shims thing ???
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Yes. They do need a special service tool to make it easier, but if you remove the camshaft you won't need it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by armadillo
-- does the I.P got to be removed in order to be ajusted ???
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No. You can adjust the fuelling levels and pre and on bosst fuelling with the IP in situ.
__________________
Cheers,
Julian Voelcker
Overland Cruisers - Specialising in Land Cruiser preparation and servicing.
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