My experience crossing borders (solo), tips on money, and hiring handlers:

I never paid a bribe or an excessive amount to a handler (US to Costa Rica and back)

Laredo, Texas > Mexico - easy process, no handler, parked my bike near the security guard at the parking lot entrance (bought optional insurance in Texas)

Chetumal ,Mexico > Belize - easy - no handler, parked bike near as possible to "toll booth" (bought required insurance just over the line, was stopped 2 or 3 times and checked for insurance while traveling through Belize)

Benque Viejo del Carmen, Belize (Western Highway) > Guatemala - fair easy (my spanish is weak, the process was straight forward), no handler

Guatemala > El Salvador - ran into a paper wall filling out forms - a handler jumped into the process and was disappointed that I gave him the equivalent of $7.00, but I told him that is all I have...my first experience holding the line with handlers...

El Salvador > Honduras - was approached by handlers at gas station several miles from the boarder. We negotiated a two part deal, a fee for get me and the bike out of the country and a hand-off to another guy who would manage the paperwork into Honduras. If you are working with a handler on one side of the board that you like, ask to be connected with a handler of the other side of the border. I think I paid the handlers $5 per border, and gave their friend $1 for watching my bike. While that might not seem like a lot of money, many people labor hard all day for similar pay and these guys aren't breaking a sweat filling out paperwork. I had no problem tell the handlers that I didn't have much money and was on a very tight budget.

Honduras > Nicaragua -was surrounded by handlers and money changers, all trying to get my attention. I got off the bike and walk 75 feet away to a food shack (the bike was never out of my line of sight.) Got a bite to eat, a drink and a smoke, then waived the handler who I noticed before who was standing calmly at the edge of the pack. Most of the other handlers and money changers had walked away, but this guy was patient and that is a key thing. Don't let the handlers rush you at any point. They are in a hurry to process you through and move on to their next client, but time at this point should mean little to you. Getting the paper work done right and paying the right amount is your goal. I spent a few minutes talking to the handler about the various steps, the number of windows and the fees, so I would exchange enough local currency, but not too much. He agreed to $5 to get me out of Honduras and to connect me with a handler on the Nicaraguan side. I bought the required insurance. Note: Before getting far from the various border buildings, you will be stopped and all of your paper work checked.

Assume you will not get a great exchange rate from guys standing around at the border with thick stacks of money. Some will offer a stupid bad rate to start and that is where you need to be prepared. I recommend carrying a palm sized calculator and you'll need to know the "official" exchange rate. I downloaded a free application to my iPhone called CURRENCY. The exchange rate is close to what you might get (buy and sell rates are different so use rates that you see online as a guide!) If you are prepared, then you won't be horribly ripped off, but remember that the money changers are trying to make a living and don't expect the world from them.

I put together two sets of document in binders with clear plastic sleeves. One had the original document (title, medical documents, International driver permit and Inter-American driver permit, etc) and the other contained multiple copies of the first binder. I recommend making multiple copies of your passport, title, license, and registration. Having copies will reduce, but not eliminate, the trips to the copy shacks. NEVER hand over your original documents to a handler. ONLY let them handle the copies. ALWAYS be present when fees are paid and handle the money yourself, then there will be no confusion as to how much was paid. I have heard of handlers claiming they had to pay (or bribe) for things that the traveler didn't see...make it clear up front that YOU will handle all the original document and pay all the fee. Also make clear exactly how much you will pay the handler. I found that $5 per border is enough. They usually can't assist you on both borders, unless they are a dual citizen, which I imagine is rare. Get everything done before paying, because they disappear as soon as they are paid.

Nicaragua > Costa Rica - hired handlers, bought insurance. By this time I proven system, $5 per border, or $10 per frontier (here are two borders per frontier.) Get the handler fee worked out ahead. If they don't like the rate you offer, then someone else will take the work. Yes, its the free market system at work. Exchange a enough money for gas, and border fees...but not too much. The handlers all want to be paid in USD.

On my trip north I connected with two gringos near the Nicaragua border. It was a lot easier crossing borders with company, much lower stress. We tried to make our border crossing early in the morning to avoid delays and long lines. Honestly, the guys I traveled with were a bit more free with their tips. I pitched in here and there, but don't recall the handler fees we paid going north.

As you head north you will want to spend any excess local currency before hitting the border. Keep enough get out of the country. You will get a low rate buying USD with the multi-colored monies that you bring back.

Consider researching and opening an account with HSBC, CitiBank or Scotia, so you can withdraw local currency without paying bank fees. I have an account with Bank of America and their Mexican parther, Santander Serfin, will allow you to withdraw Pesos without a bank fee. Bank of America only has a partner in Mexico. The rest of the time I was cashing American Express Travelers, which was a major pain in the ass.

Last piece of advice, if there is a long line of cars/trucks queuing up for the border, then drive around them and go to the front of the line. It is not expected that a motorcyclist will wait in a long line of traffic. I think it was crossing into Nicaragua, there was a line of truck about mile long! You might not want to cut in front of the person at the very front of the line.

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Peter B
2008/09 - NJ to Costa Rica and back to NJ
2012/13 - NJ to Northern Argentina, Jamaica, Cuba and back to NJ
2023 - Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia...back to Peru.

Blogs: Peter's Ride