Shadowraven, you have taken the front casing off, I hope the battery was disconnected and stays disconnected when you refit the case, if you short out that diode board ( and it is easy to do, believe me......)

then your alternator will not charge.

just sayin..............



oh and you may want to check the condition of the connections on the fuse-box. now is a GOOD time to upgrade to resettable breakers, expensive, yes, but much easier than buggering about with fuses.

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Martyn,
Thank you for the advice. Yeah the battery was number 3 thing removed following the seat and tool box. You mention the resettable breakers. Please elaborate. I'm quite interested in the modification.
Adam

Nice, we don't see many build-threads here.

You are sure it's from the engine and not from the gearbox?
Beside the seals itself there are a few possibilities:

Oil-pump cover:
It should be perfectly straight. Put it on something completely flat (glass) to check.

RMS:
RealOEM.com � BMW 47E3 R 80 GS CRANKSHAFT/CONNECTING ROD/MOUNTING PARTS
Is #5 in good condition? Have you replaced the o-ring (#6)?

Engine case:
It's extremely rare but they do crack. Check it carefully.

I usually mark the position, it's good enough to get the engine started. When the engine is running I use a timing-gun.

Yes, it's marks on the sprockets so it's pretty easy. It's rarely necessary to replace the sprockets, most people change the chain, guide and tensioner.
If you decide to change the sprockets you might find the upper one hard to remove, the lower is easier but you need to remove the camshaft.....

I see your point but I wouldn't have done it this way. It's a hassle to install the cables and you introduce several weak points. A vehicle should have only one main-ground connected to the battery.
I can write more about this but by introducing several ground-conditions you increase the chance of fires, periodical problems, burned components and problems with charging and you get a system which is hard to repair.

Basically you want your ground-cable to be short and fat, personally I have it fixed to the lower left mounting bolt but the original position is better because it reduces cable-length.

There are a few things that can be done to improve the original setup but (beside the rotor) BMW did a great job designing this.


Again I see your point but it's difficult to do this without introducing voltage-drops to the system. Voltage drops leads to hard starting and charging-problems.

Alibaba,
I see the thinking..basically its a matter of KISS (Keep it simple stupid). Don't add anything that unnecessary and keep it all low tech and BMW originally designed.

To address the points you brought up,

The oil leakage:
I did have to replace the RMS, flywheel ring and oil pump cover this past spring, I may have screwed something up, I know I did not torque the oil cover bolts as I did not have a consensus on the values. I will check once I get the trans off. The leakage you see there is about 1000mi worth in hot temps, not a major leak, but a leak just the same.

Timing chain:
I guess I'll do what the consensus does and just do the chain, guide and tensioner. No sense messing with what works.

Electrics:
I guess I'll make sure to limit the runs of wire. I have heard to make sure the timing cover has good contact with the case too.

Disconnect:
I plan on using marine grade stuff for this. It may introduce future issues, but the added security is well worth it to me

1/3/11 update

Today I spent further pulling stuff from the bike. I am going away for a couple weeks in Feb so want to have it ready for the powder coaters so it'll be ready for reassembly when I return.

Holding off on the handlebars till the end. I'm actually balancing the bike part removal process front to back and vice versa. Should I pull too much off of each end the bike would tilt off of the lift.


Trying to decide if I want to aluminum coat the covers, I took mine and hit it with the metal wax today. Worst I can say is that the oxidation that came off got imbedded into the metal and slightly darkened it. Doen not look too bad though. I may save myself 30-40 bucks and just leave it as is.


Pulled the bean can and the charging system except for the rotor....waiting on the tool. Very dirty in there, and there was a combination of rocks, spiders and other nasty things



Take a look at the rotor in the last photo...looks melted doesn't it???
Some closer photos. Anyone have any ideas, nothing else is melted. I'm guessing it's where the wires come down from the slip rings.



The dirty beancan, marked throughly to aid in replacement.


The next project is to rip into this. What are my upgrade options here...especially if I go to a R1100 caliper


The box of replacements and extras is getting bigger

Aaarghhhh! Clean it

Doing one better, taking it off and letting a powder coater do their magic

My pleasure.... here ya go! ATC Circuit Breakers

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Thank you, they look pretty physically big, are they?

they are longer ( or taller whichever way ya wanna look at it....) but it is easy enough to extend the lid of a fuse box, as long as u have the room... I would make every effort possible to use the them, saves a LOT of hassle.

M

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Have you thought about replacing the alternator with a permanent magnet type?
You would get rid of diode board problems as well as any potential problems caused by breakdown of the rotor windings and carbon brushes .

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Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan
"When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ."

I ended up with a 450w Omega. I got a deal, $100 less than the perm magnet system

Did some research on that charge system.

Found out a couple points that I like on the Omega vs the Endura

Cons of Endura:

1. The Endra possibly won't work with bad battery...or no battery? So no charging a flat battery. Makes sense with a kickstart.
2. Replacement parts and hard to diagnose issues.
3. Heard to be Noisy
4. No replacement parts available, need to spend another $500USD to replace

Cons of Omega:

1. more parts to fail
2. Replacement parts only available from Rick, not from dealer
3. charges best at speed

Pros of Endura:
1. Few Parts to fail
2. Charges all the time close to max
3. Frees up room in charge section.
4. Less connections to fail.

Pros of Omega:
1. More ultimate power
2. Will run a batteryless bike.
3. Easy to diagnose by maintaining the airhead simplicity
4. Individual parts are available from Rick the seller...yes a pro too as he sells good stuff and stands by it.

Conclusion:
Both systems are equal in benefit, it all depends on what you want. I need heated grips, gps, liner and gloves at speed. I also like the ability to start and run a bike that the battery died and I had to kickstart to get running. This kit delivers for my needs.

I may need to do some work in that dept. The fusebox location on the g/s seems like an afterthought. I'll have to look into it.

Don't a bloody R80rt then, the bloody things are in the headlamp shell!!, and a pain in the ass to get to..., I ended up relocating my fuses into the tank box ( it was an ex police R80 and had the radio box built into the top of the gas tank)

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Maby this sort of thing is better Pico 5575pt Master BATT Isolator Switch

or this: Battery isolator - removable key in the �on� or �off� position

Cheers,
John

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Nostradamus Ate My Hamster