Going the way you are is quite possible, and you have mostly correct info - BUT the battery will have to be changed to a much smaller one.

The SHAFT is better on the monolever, but the rear wheel is NOT as strong. They changed it from a 3 bolt mount on the monolever to a 4 bolt mount on the paralever, and beefed up the hub generally. I have cracked a monolever hub and had to replace it. US$1000 new, no used available at the time.

Also the monolever wheel is tube-type, not near as good as the tubeless paralever wheel.

I'm considering going the OTHER way - monolever to paralever. BUT it's much harder, the frame needs to be modified. Yours already has the mods, and going BACK to a paralever is not a problem in the frame, just the fender and battery.

Overall, if I were you I'd just find a used paralever. The difference in price between a complete used paralever or a monolever can't be significant, especially if you have to buy a wheel as well - I assume your wheel at least is ok.

The only real problem with the paralever is the driveshaft, which you have to treat as a maintenance item, like you would a chain on a chain drive bike. The rest of the paralever setup is pretty good - assuming maintenance is carried out as needed. You can't just drive ANY bike without maintaining it over many thousands of miles. They'll ALL fail eventually somewhere.

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Grant Johnson

Seek, and ye shall find.
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One world, Two wheels.
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

__________________
Grant Johnson
Seek, and ye shall find.
------------------------
Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997!
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com