How very true! Most of what I read before I bought my GSA was hearsay. There's also a very biased attitude towards BMWs on this forums based largely on the buzz that Ewan and Charlie have created doing their LWR and LWD movies. I always wonder what would've happened if they would've done the trip on KTMs...

Anyhow, as an actual 2009 GSA owner who bought his in November 2009 (because I did not want the 2010 engine) and with 11.000kms on it already it I can share what little experience I already have.

Why did I buy this bike and not one that costs half as much?
When you're travelling two up there's one thing more important than anything else. I call it rule #1: keep the pillion happy. You can have the best bike ever, one that never breaks, is light as a feather and reliable as a Russian tank but the joy you will have on any given trip is reciprocally proportional to how miserable your pillion is. Personally if it was for me we wouldn't be riding anything larger than a 600cc single like the Tenere. Infact that's what I've had before I bought the GSA. However, my wife was not too happy with it because of limited space due to a rather short(ish) seat. We did a lot of research, rode a bunch of bikes and eventuelly both concluded that we both felt most comfortable on the 1200 GS, especially my wife. She simply loved the space she has in the back, key for long distance riding, without feeling disconnected from me. We ended up buying the GSA because the GS felt too small for me (6'2") and lacked a bunch of extras that the GSA comes with by default, like decent crash bars, engine guard, rack, additional headlights, spoked wheels, etc.

Am I happy with it?
Short answer yes, long answer yes, but... after 11.000 kms including a 8.000km trip through the UK on- and offroad with my wife and full gear I absolutely LOVE that bike. Sure, it's about as big as the Arc de Triomphe but as soon as you get going it feels surprisingly light and handy. I did hairpin turns with it in the Alps in which a Yamaha XJ900 Diversion and a KTM 950 Adventure had to reverse and take it in two turns! Fuel economy is amazing for a bike that size - I manage 4.5l/100kms (52 mpg) solo and 4.9l/100kms (48 mpg) two-up fully loaded. The 'but' part of my statement above is rust: it's already taking overhand, especially around the crash bars and pillion hand rails. I am a bit worried about the fact that if the bike breaks I won't be able to fix it myself. However, the 2008/2009 model is supposed to be the most reliable one and I'm hoping for the best. The truth is that every new bike you buy has more technology and electronics built-in than the moonlander so it's not a problem specific to BMW. I did the research on that topic and was shocked. The only way to escape is is getting a used bike between five to ten years old but that'll only buy you some time. Eventually, a few years from now we'll either all end up with computers that happen to have a motorcycle attached to them or we'll all start buying Royal Indians. Let's face it, that's what's going to happen.

Would I buy it again?
Too early to tell. If BMW continues to blame me for the rust (first time I tried I was told it was totally my fault, I should be cleaning and polishing it more often...) I might even return the current one and demand my money back. Don't get me wrong the bike is great but I'm not willing to pay for a piece of rust that already started to flourish after a month! If it's true that you get what you pay for then this is just bollocks. I've already asked a lawyer (always good to have one in your family ) and was advised to not let go and get that fixed or replaced.

What else would I get?
Well, that's the problem - there isn't much left that wouldn't violate rule #1 (keep the pillion happy!) but that would also be capable of going offroad. Yamaha has already recalled all first generation Super Teneres (in Germany at least) and is replacing most of them with revised editions because there's just way too many things that went wrong. The Super Tenere is also heavier than the GS/GSA and has just as much electronical bits and gadgets built-in. The 660cc Tenere violates rule #1, so does the Transalp and the F 800 GS. We've tried half a dozen bikes that are all absolutely perfect for going solo but completely inept for taking a passenger.

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"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid across the line broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, leaking oil, shouting GERONIMO!"