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2002 xt600e engine rebuild/replacement questions 2002 xt600e engine rebuild/replacement questions
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Igor Djokovic, camping above San Juan river, Arizona USA

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Igor Djokovic,
camping above San Juan river,
Arizona USA



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this day appeared pretty remarkable due to couple reasons.
removed clutch cover etc. and inspected oil pump.
and discovered that oil pump also has two parallel circuits... strangely, earlier upper thinner part was staying as one piece and i had no clue about it's existence, overlooking that section.
and all the maze of xt's oil delivery now is finally clear.
guess was lucky enough to receive all this knowledge in pretty unforgettable ways.
and this admonishment from the manual also makes much more sense -


but! somehow the manual still goes short about pump, for example, i can't find any indication that there must be two set of rotors to inspect, or applying oil into the passages of another circuit as well (two smaller holes below), which i also involuntarily skipped last time...

anyways, bike started pretty nicely on the first try and gave long-lasting smile.
bit of the remaining work and long-awaited break-in period is about to start.
besides of general "keep it smooth and slow-ish", if there're some bike-specific advices about break-in period (new crank/cylinder/piston), and how long (one tank? 500km? more?) please let me know.
No 30-40km is enough, most importan is start up fast dont let it idle, ride with 50- 75% load up and down and then 100%, good oil and change. The ones who get the most power is the one who has the roughest breakin in.
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well, thanks for the suggestions. "the most power" is not exactly what i was particularly looking for, but approach makes a good sense.
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well, thanks for the suggestions. "the most power" is not exactly what i was particularly looking for, but approach makes a good sense.
Well you do what you think is best for your engine, just dont crank alot, prime up carb and hope it starts on first turn with good oilflow, then various rpm and your good The bad part is for my understanding that you already have done alot of cranking looking for oilflow...
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Well you do what you think is best for your engine, just dont crank alot, prime up carb and hope it starts on first turn with good oilflow, then various rpm and your good The bad part is for my understanding that you already have done alot of cranking looking for oilflow...
you're right, there was some pre-run cranking.
at least, everything inside was well soaked into the oil, which hopefully could had survived before the first run...
had first short ride today and despite of not yet tuned carbs (pilot and maybe primary as well needed some attention from the last time), after all this time it felt so nice...
generally, i'm following your suggestions. was varying throttle without hesitations, but still didn't went above the third gear this time.
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you're right, there was some pre-run cranking.
at least, everything inside was well soaked into the oil, which hopefully could had survived before the first run...
had first short ride today and despite of not yet tuned carbs (pilot and maybe primary as well needed some attention from the last time), after all this time it felt so nice...

generally, i'm following your suggestions. was varying throttle without hesitations, but still didn't went above the third gear this time.
Good to hear you are on the road again, what break in oil are you using? Keep it up to 70% load in beginning, remember wrong fule/airmix is not good either for breakin in and remember dont leave on idling and low rpm above 1500 is good.
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Good to hear you are on the road again, what break in oil are you using? Keep it up to 70% load in beginning, remember wrong fule/airmix is not good either for breakin in and remember dont leave on idling and low rpm above 1500 is good.
oil is 10w40 semi by rheinol.
mixture must be bit richer than normal, will address this issue soon.
as advised, idling time is minimal.
by the way, does this engine need checking the torque/retightening of head bolts after some time?
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oil is 10w40 semi by rheinol.
mixture must be bit richer than normal, will address this issue soon.
as advised, idling time is minimal.
by the way, does this engine need checking the torque/retightening of head bolts after some time?
Ok, its not recomended using semi or synthetic oil, use break in oil! No its ok with headbolts torque.

Break-in oil is specifically formulated to seal the piston rings against the cylinder wall for maximum engine compression and power. Break-in oils use conventional base oils without friction-modifier additives to allow controlled wear between the rings and cylinder wall.
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