and import it & register it in Georgia? Should be fun....

whats the problem?

thanks for info. picture is random, since haven't made it of my part.

yep, that "fun" roughly adds 20% on the price.
considering current budget, it's out of question this year.

meanwhile, cases are split and stuff is out.
collected nearly all pieces of piston.
gearbox is alright, no worn teeth or dogs.
sadly, not the same with the crank. so far was unable to measure runouts, but other measurements are not very promising -

guess at least new bearing is needed. after finding the way of measuring runouts, further decisions will come.

Ok, bearing and rod, dont use old if you first take the shaft apart. If you havent changed any bearings around its time to do them all, how about the head cam etc any wear
marks?
Was the rotor stuck or did it come off easy? The problem is that with all you need for doing this complete rebuild its no low budget build, do it all or you will regret later when you have to start from beginning.

thanks, will consider the new rod as well.
head & cam were looking good, haven't checked valves and springs yet. but cam chain was almost to the end of its life, tensioner had one last position left.
rotor was not very stubborn. came off pretty similar like last year when had to replace the starter clutch - good pressure with diy puller + one good hammering.
yup, this rebuild is still pricey than expected. although, the reserve of some spares (gaskets, chain, clutch etc.) collected earlier somehow help. also, maybe couple friends abroad (greece and germany) will be able to find and send used parts in good condition, this also might make the life easier, let's see...

Ok, yes been doing alot of buying from Germany earlier years, it was alot of parts and good price. But lately its not the same, prices is really high and not much good used parts. Here you cant find used parts for those, still good buys on good bikes low km. Good luck getting bike on the road again

thanks a lot for a good wishes! hopefully, not too much of the spring will be missed..
meanwhile, checking some options of con rods and even used crankshafts online. this later is sometimes listed with appropriate measurements as well, making option to consider. all this leads me to the new question - are there any year or model (xt/tt) difference for con rod and crankshaft?

Its only years from 90-2002 3tb

another important info, thanks again!

conrod kits from PROX are relatively cheap and quite well made, had one in my racing supermono. easy to find in ebay.


question is if you have a decent shop who can put it back together with the right alignment.

thanks for info. seems they also have pistons and other parts which i'm gonna need sooner or later.
yep, that question about decent workshop is very exact and actual. still have to check couple remaining options but expectation so far is not very optimistic.
that's why considering maybe whole crank/rod set (used..), assuming that someone will be ok/able to measure at least free plays. let's see.

hi there.
after lots of online searching, direct and indirect communications and finally, shipments, i'm having some updates & questions.

living in a country where there's no place to assemble/align crankshafts and machine the cylinder sleeves to fit in the block made me to look for the whole crankshaft & con rod set, as well as cylinder & piston kit. used ones.
and this items with some other parts (strainer, pump gear etc.) are already in my garage.
some remaining small stuff is still on the way.

well, crank seems within specs (but still without any info about runouts).
but piston and cylinder are at least worth asking some questions.
with the depth and accuracy of vernier caliper, cylinder inside diameter is about 95,7mm.
piston seems oem (that izumi and yamaha markings inside) but it's larger compared to my late standard one. and having different, cylindrical skirt, not 8-shaped one i was expecting.
can't compare their weights because of broken part of my older piston.
visually "new" piston looks pretty clean and undamaged, but there're some differences in the diameters, which also seem strange -






planning to show cylinder and piston to someone more experienced in this domain for precise measurements and overall assessment. also, let me ask some questions here as well -

1. that ~95,7mm of inside diameter of cylinder indeed indicates some overbore. 3rd step maybe?

2. what about different diameters of the piston? ok, having smaller top is maybe normal (like that 94,3mm on my older one) but how about different diameters on the bottom?

3. will that different skirt be a problem? if it's heavier, for example...

4. in the case if i'll decide to keep this set, will i need appropriate head gasket for it or it's not related to oversized cylinder?

From dimensions, sounds like you bought a +0.5 piston/cyl



but in any of these measurements you need to at least work with a digital caliper...or better a mictrometer, vernier not good enough, but thats only for external diameter, and yes, the point ot measure is more on the skirt than the top



for the cyl diameter you really need special equipment to measure.



luckily, there is a work around: put your piston mid stroke in the cyl in the right orientation and see what size feeler gauge fits between skirt and bore. thats essentialy your clearance. according to the manual it shouldnt be more than 0.1mm limit , but seen bikes run reasonably ok with even more than that.

hope you open the manual from time to time becuase its quite clear on this

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thanks for infos.
yes, for now main concern is about cylinder dimensions which probably i'll have measured professionally in the upcoming days.
will remember that good trick with the feeler gauge as well.
about manual you're right, somehow overlooked that part in the beginning, seems my file was being scrolled mainly around engine disassembly section )

there are dims also for cyl there, remember to add +0.5 as you are 1st oversize

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