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  #16  
Old 26 May 2012
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And before I rush into buying one or another... Maybe someone has owned a Hyperpack CDI? Is it worth the money? Or should I just get a used one that's a third or even half of a price cheaper?
YAMAHA XT400 XT 400 XT550 XT 550 XT600 XT 600 HYPERPAK IGNITION IGNITIONS CDI | eBay
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  #17  
Old 26 May 2012
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Did you check for continuity in the actual orange cable?

Is your multimeter digital or analog?
the CDI has diodes, meaning only current from one side can go thru and not back.
If your multimeter is a digital one, when you touch the orange terminal on the CDI and one at least one of the other terminals on the CDI your multimeter should show you a voltage drop! IT WON'T make any continuity noise! just display some values on the multimeter display.. Either infinity: 1 OR it usually shows around .500ish voltage drop.

If it shows 1 on the display, switch the wires (where you had the black switch with the red and vice-versa) and it should be around .500ish. That means that that specific diode is working good!


If ya need help I'll add some pictures later tonight as an example..


STILL you haven't told if when you press the e-start button if you hear any noises or clicks or whatever!
Does the e-start motor turn?
Is the battery good?
Do you hear a click from the solenoid?
HAVE you checked the FUSE?!?!?!
Is the sidestand switch bypassed?
Is the clutch switch bypassed?



It could simply be your start cut-off relay malfunctioning and not the CDI!
In this case, when you press the e-start button you won't hear anything!


Vando
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  #18  
Old 27 May 2012
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Continuity in the orange cable (from ignition coil connector to CDI connector) is good.

The multimeter is analog.
Yes, I understand the diodes, and that's why you say to check for continuity two times on every two cables.
With analog multimeter there's no continuity in CDI's orange wire with any other CDI's wires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi23 View Post
STILL you haven't told if when you press the e-start button if you hear any noises or clicks or whatever!
Does the e-start motor turn?
Is the battery good?
Do you hear a click from the solenoid?
HAVE you checked the FUSE?!?!?!
Is the sidestand switch bypassed?
Is the clutch switch bypassed?
I think I have answered already: my bike isn't supposed to have electric starter. It's just the engine that has a starter motor. That's it. Originally there's no starter button on the bike, there's no clutch switch, because the bike was manufactured to have kick-start only. The engine was swapped, and now the engine has a starter motor. I will have to wire the starter solenoid to make the starter work.
E-start motor turns and runs when powered. Tested - works.
The battery is good. Bought it new last summer. But the bike used to kick-start without the battery anyway.
Solenoid works and clicks.
Fuse is good, everything else on the bike works (lights, etc.).
Sidestand switch is not bypassed. But anyway it shuts the motor only when you select a gear and the sidestand is down.
There's no clutch switch. And it doesn't have a connection to the wiring harness.

There's no other places too look at, just the CDI
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  #19  
Old 27 May 2012
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Can't wait to ride, so I bought another CDI, used, but a good one. I hope I'll receive it this week, as it shouldn't take long - shipping from Germany to Lithuania.

I hope I'll see the spark (at the end of a tunnel) now!
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  #20  
Old 4 Jun 2012
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Updates????

Fitted my bi-xenon 55w 4300k today.. had to hack it but it was worth it!


Vando
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  #21  
Old 4 Jun 2012
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Still waiting for the CDI to be delivered by the tracking info I should receive it in about two days... I see that Hermes is pretty slow

Glad you're done with it! How and why did you hack it? Where did you place the ballast?

I thought I will post some pictures of my bike's xenon installation for you after I receive the CDI and get the bike running, so I could put the headlight on, but as I said the CDI is still on it's way... did you have any problems with the light bulb's rubber cover?
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  #22  
Old 5 Jun 2012
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I thought it would've arrived there already...


Well.. the bulb is kinda dodgy Chinese stuff...

The two little screws that tighten the metallic casing to the H4 plate around the bulb were practically loose so I had to tighten them but the bulb still vibrates a lot!

After that I found out I had to disassemble the bulb LOol... remove the metallic casing, pull out the H4 plate, rotate and pull out a black plastic part so I could fit the stock rubber thingy, put in that metallic ring that holds the bulb in the headlight, refit the black plastic part, refit H4 plate, refit metal casing and tighten the screws Properly...and clean everything I touched...

Still, as I mentioned, the bulb still shakes in the headlight socket as she isn't tight and has some play..
I can touch it and feel that it doesn't fully stay in there..

Have to figure out what I can do to that FG bulb!

I fitted the ballast on the outside of my fiberglass airbox right behind the Left hand side seat plastic cover..
Fitted the 100cm extension cable I also bought to connect the ballast to the bulb...

Had to hack the cables from the relay that makes the bulb move up and down...

The small two cable plug that connects to the bulb for the High/low I had to extend it... I cut it about 15cm from the plug, soldered and heatshrinked some cables and fitted larger heatshrink (but didn't shrink so it stays flexible) over the cables to protect them and tidy things up..

Also had to solder and heatshrink the other two cables that connect to the H4 socket so when I choose hi or low beam on the handlebar switch it'll work. On the end of these two cables, I soldered and heatshrinked the pins I removed from an old broken H4 lamp so they fit nicelly in the H4 socket..

I plan on trimming down the excess cable that goes from the relay to the battery terminals..it has about 60cm just "hanging" there...


The only thing that I don't quite like is the 23000volt thingy...I only secured it tightly with electrical tape...I'll fix that later on probably..

I'll take some pictures tomorrow to show you how it looks fitted...



P.S.:
Don't forget to let us know when the CDI arrives!


Vando
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  #23  
Old 6 Jun 2012
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Received the CDI today. I was soooo excited, as I was thinking where will I go for a ride!
Installed the CDI unit, turned the key, kicked the bike over, and... kicked again... and again... and again...

THERE'S STILL NO SPARK!!!

All I need now is a piece of strong rope, a strong tall tree, and I can hang myself!

There's no continuity between new CDI's orange wire and any other wires, so: either my old CDI is good, or the new CDI is not working either. If someone could measure the continuity of a running bike CDI's continuity between orange and other wires I would REALLY appreciate it (11wire CDI).
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  #24  
Old 6 Jun 2012
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Also:
Pickup coil resistance meets specifications;
Stator coil resistance meets specifications.


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  #25  
Old 6 Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zergman View Post

STOP! Don't do it yet, you still have to post more pictures showing how you fixed it all (of what I'm sure), as well as of the XT personalization finished job, which already looks great.

I don't get a clue of your debate with Bacardi (electricity seems too abstract for my limited understanding), but still enjoy a lot your "conversation", feels like when you see a friend talking Chinese, then he makes a joke and all Chinese break into laughs and you think: he has to speak very well damn mandarin indeed!

Good luck and go on! The final reward will be even sweeter.

Esteban
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  #26  
Old 6 Jun 2012
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Tadas... Can you tell us the reference number on your stock CDI and the reference number on the newer used one?
If it is the same as any other of our bikes we can check some wiring diagrams.

Also you could post a pictures of the plug connectors (of each or two/three at a time) since the back of the bike until under the gas tank (ignition coil included)!

Regulator/rectifier, CDI, Battery, fuse, DIODE, stator, starter motor, solenoid, front and rear...

One more thing.. on the youtube clip it shows you can turn on the headlight...could you turn it on before you put the bi-xenon on there?


We gotta figure out what's wrong with that bike...


Vando
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  #27  
Old 6 Jun 2012
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Okay guys, I won't do that. Yet...

Quote:
Originally Posted by estebangc View Post
STOP! Don't do it yet
The conversation sometimes seems to go over the same stuff a couple of times, maybe because of a language barrier or something like that. My English isn't perfect.

Vando, the reference number on both CDIs are the same:
3YP - 00
070000-2180 QAC18

There's a picture of ignition coil in the previous page. There's also pictures of engine's connectors and CDI connectors, but I'll add some more.

Yes, the headlight was working perfectly before I installed the xenon kit, and it is working now. Everything works except that there's no spark...

It's pretty late and pretty dark right now, so sorry for bad pictures.

It seems that I have a limit of how many pictures I can upload (?)

The starter relay is installed at the back of the bike, close to the regulator/rectifier, as there was no other place to put it to. Done the wiring, starter works nicely. I've received the clutch switch that I bought off eBay, I'll install it later. (all the wiring for the starter is made by me, so don't bother about it, the bike HAS to run, and used to run, without all the e-start stuff).

There's the bike when it was assembled (almost- there's just the muffler, hand guards and the skid plate missing), and I thought I will go for a ride that evening. Now all the plastics are off again.
Attached Thumbnails
Yamaha XT 600 personalization-dscn7322.jpg  

Yamaha XT 600 personalization-dscn7347.jpg  

Yamaha XT 600 personalization-dscn7332.jpg  

Yamaha XT 600 personalization-dscn6976.jpg  

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  #28  
Old 6 Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi23 View Post
Regulator/rectifier, CDI, Battery, fuse, DIODE, stator, starter motor, solenoid, front and rear...
Made a photo of regulator/rectifier.
CDI.
Why battery?
Fuse is okay.
Diode does not exist in this wiring harness, nor it existed in a previous trashed one. There's a diode in the XT600E wiring that I have, but that wiring doesn't fit my bike.
I haven't opened the engine to see the stator, I will probably do that tomorrow. Starter motor is as all starter motors, it gets it's positive wire from battery through starter relay to the motor, nothing to look for there.
Solenoid works, but it also doesn't belong to the original wiring.
Front and rear?

Sorry for the lack of pictures, I'll need to start uploading them to the imageshack or somewhere else, because I reached my upload limit here as I see.
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  #29  
Old 6 Jun 2012
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You don't need to open the motor to check the stator!

You said you've checked it but just to check:
You need to check for continuity between all three WHITE wires (two at a time). There has to be continuity between all three.

Also test for continuity between every single Whites and a good frame ground! There can't be any continuity there!


One thing.. you said the sidestand switch isn't bypassed... try bypassing it to see what happens?!
The problem with a sidestand switch failing is that it'll "tell" the CDI that the sidestand is always down!


Yeah, you need to make an imageshack account.. it's the best way to keep pictures and it's free!


Another thing sometimes happens and doesn't allow the XT to start is the ignition coil cable that connects to the sparkplug CAP might not be making a good connection thus not allowing for it to start!

One thing that happened to me when I fitted the bi-xenon kit.. The fuel tank pulled the Orange cable off the ignition coil and the bike wouldn't start! Orange is connected to the TOP PIN on the ignition coil!


Vando....
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  #30  
Old 7 Jun 2012
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Hey! Where is your frame ground?!?!?!?!?

On my model it's a cable that goes from the battery negative to one of the e-starter motor bolts that hold it to engine! but since you ain't got an e-starter motor you need to have another good ground!!!
Remember, paint and primer don't allow for good grounds!


Check that out!
Vando
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