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  #1  
Old 28 May 2019
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Torque spec
Does anyone know the rear axel torque spec on a 2004 Dr650.

German-tight does not work. It will melt the rear hub as I have found that out.
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Old 28 May 2019
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There are two versions:

Rear axle nut: (with cotter pin) 100N·m (10.0kg-m, 72.5 lb-ft)

Rear axle nut: (self-locking nut, no cotter pin) 110N·m (11.0kg-m, 79.5 lb-ft)

That's a LOT of torque, otherwise known as super tight. If you damaged the hub I suspect there is something wrong in the bearing spacers, so I would check everything VERY carefully. Number one test, when it's fully tightened, does everything still turn just as easily as it did before you tightened it? There should be NO difference!

hope that helps!
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Old 28 May 2019
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It is a lot of torque, and as Grant notes, everything should still spin just fine. I suspect that the wheel bearings were not installed correctly and in the proper order.

The first bearing is pulled/driven down into the hub and seated in the wheel. The second bearing is pulled or driven with a tool that covers the whole bearing and pushes both races equally. If you seat the second bearing with something like a socket that pushes only the outer race, you can seat the outer race too far down into the wheel.

That is: the inner race will stop when it meets the internal spacer, but the outer race can still move farther to contact the hub. That, of course, stresses the bearing in a way it is not designed to handle, and it will fail.

................shu
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Old 30 May 2019
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BTW - something to keep an eye on that may or may not be related to any issues you have (posted elsewhere here, but lost where!):

Quote:
...repeated rear wheel bearing failures. The Suzuki DR650 has a propensity for this as well ... with disastrous results if you don't catch it early.

The solution that an Aussie guy came up with (and it seems to really HELP!) is to maintain fairly FRESH Cush Drive Rubber inserts.

This apparently helps keep everything more in line. When worn, hub can move some, exerting pressure on wheel and hubb bearings.

On the DR650 the Cush Drive rubbers only last about 10K miles at most. After that you can feel a roughness in drive train (feels like failing clutch basket) ... and of course you're on the road to failed wheel/hub bearings. They look normal but somehow stop working. I've been through this on my 60K mile DR650.

On the DR650 when the central hub bearing fails it can take out the entire hub, leaving it unusable. It's only happened to a few owners, and mostly in Oz doing very hard, off road work.

BTW, you can't tell by looking if Cush rubbers are worn. New and Old, to me, look the same ... but somehow swapping in new tightens things up, smooths out the drive line (this on DR650...
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Old 1 Jun 2019
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Spacer
I found out that an internal spacer was notninstalled in the hub. It goes between the hub and the rear wheel. One end is smaller in diameter than the otjer and it was missing from the hun that failed.

The guy who replaced the sproket was not working from abook and in a shop that was littered with parts from other bikes. If it dropped then he had nonway of knowing without looking at an IPC drawing or exploded viewnof the rear hub assembly. Glad it did not result in a 70 mpg skid.

Pressure anyone into "Open book" policy when working on your bike.y
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Old 1 Jun 2019
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Kinda what I figured in the beginning - something wrong with the spacers.

But missing that one is weird - that should mean the axle could NOT be tightened up, as you'd be trying to bend the swingarm and then the tire would rub - VERY wrong!

As noted, watch, and always check that everything seems right yourself. IMHO - best to do it yourself if at all possible. Wheel and tire and brakes etc you should be able to do on your own, if not, ask someone to show you the basics. None of it is hard, and familiarity with your own bike is a good thing when something goes wrong in the middle of nowhere.
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