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4 Mar 2017
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With her bike fixed, Neda goes on a solo Croatian road trip!
It's Iva's birthday, so while my bike is in the shop Neda hops on hers to spend a long weekend with the girls in Pula.
She sends me a picture from Pula. Looks like she's having a good time.
I'm spectacularly unproductive while all alone in Zagreb. Didn't get one blog entry done. But I did watch a lot of TV...
We are members of an online Croatian motorcycle forum, and we know a couple of people from there who have kept in touch with us. Danko and Nives first rode in to visit us in Pula a couple of years ago. Now that we're in their neck of the woods, they invite us out for some Zagreb food. Gonna ZaGrab us some ZaGrub!
I don't say ZaGrub in front of our Croatian friends. I've learnt my lesson at the BMW dealership.
Having some delicious grilled meat with Nives, Danko and Danko's brother. Hvala!
Hangin' out with our Croatian biker friends after dinner
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4 Mar 2017
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And then another visit to the dealership to pick up my (yet again) fixed motorcycle. Third final drive this trip. Is there a record for most final drive repairs on a single R1200GS? Surely I must be winning. Perhaps "winning" is not exactly the right word in this case... *sigh*
We've been to Zagreb many times over the years, but mainly as a transit point when we are flying in to the airport and then catching a bus to Pula. In all those times, we've never actually ventured into the city to explore. So now that we're staying in town, we decide to ride in and do some sightseeing.
Another glorious sunny day to explore Zagreb!
I love having a motorcycle in Europe! Free parking everywhere!
We start our tour off at Ban Jelačić Square, Zagreb's central square
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4 Mar 2017
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I don't know what this sculpture is, but it would be embarrassing if it was like a bus stop sign...
Game of Thrones style map
Streetcar runs right through Ban Jelačić Square
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4 Mar 2017
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I'm guessing this is the part of town where all the tourists hang out
So one thing I've learned about Croatians is that they *love* their flag
Zagreb Cathedral
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4 Mar 2017
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"Oooh, that's Marija Jurić Zagorka! I have to get a picture with her!"
"Do you know her, Neda?"
"Yes, I went to school with her..."
That's Neda's stock answer whenever I ask her if she's familiar with any famous Croatian person. Always with the little quip: "Yes, I went to school with him/her". Now I know how she feels when I make stupid puns.
Marija Jurić Zagorka is a famous Croatian author.
Neda did not really go to school with Marija Jurić Zagorka.
The old town of Zagreb
Neda is grabbing us some fritulas, they're like little doughnut balls covered in powdered sugar
Canadians will find fritulas very familiar. They're basically slightly larger versions of Timbits. As she was scarfing down the golfball pastries, my wife garbled out: "My grandmother used to make these all the time for me!" I didn't know your nonna played hockey, Neda!
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4 Mar 2017
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Following this cat around.
Indigenous Croatian people! There was a wedding going on in St Mark's Church. The pretty roof is tiled with the Zagreb coat of arms
Automotive advertising
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4 Mar 2017
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Walking around Zagreb's secret underground tunnels
So this was kinda cool. Not many Zagrebians know that there's a secret underground tunnel beneath their city. The Grič Tunnel was built during WWII as a means to get to an underground bunker that was meant to shelter the citizens from a bombing raid. It fell into disuse after the war and was boarded up, largely forgotten by the population above. Every once in a while, the tunnels would make the news, when people are discovered breaking in and holding raves and art exhibitions. The general reaction would be, "We have a tunnel underneath Zagreb?!?"
It's very timely that we're here in Zagreb now, because the Grič Tunnel has recently been renovated and it was officially opened to the public just last week! Currently, it's solely a pedestrian tunnel providing a walkway to get out of the hot sun, but there are future plans to build a museum inside the shelter.
Cool! Literally. It was cold down here.
Statue of Nikola Tesla, famous inventor born in Croatia. Neda went to school with him.
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4 Mar 2017
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What the heck is this huge golden ball in the middle of one of the city streets? It's the sun!
This is actually part of an art project called "The Grounded Sun". It's turned Zagreb into a scale model of the Solar System. Scattered around the city, you can find all of the planets, spaced the correct distance away from each other according to the size of this sun. The planets themselves are scaled representations: Mercury and Mars are just marbles mounted on plaques on the sides of buildings. Jupiter is the size of a soccer ball. And Earth? It's a fritula.
You see what I did there...? Brought it all the way back to Nonna Hortons.
On that note, we climb back on the bikes and ride out of the old town like cowboys into the sunset
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6 Mar 2017
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6 Mar 2017
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Great interview! And so much truth about travelling instead being bonded to possessions. Thousands over thousands of items to manage, repair and keep them running (sigh)...
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7 Mar 2017
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Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/343.html
Two weeks pass by in Zagreb in the blink of an eye. It was a great break, but I'm not entirely sure that I'm fully rested up. With Neda's road trip to Pula and back, I'm not convinced she's recovered from travel fatigue either.
But we're on a slippery slope, on the far side of the summer solstice and we're both wary of the riding season in Europe quickly burning away while we remain cooped up in this comfortable, air-conditioned apartment.
We leave Zagreb on an overcast day and take the highway out of the country, through Slovenia and towards the Austrian Alps. When we cross over the border into southern Austria, we drop out of warp and hit the back roads. We're in a province called Styria, otherwise known as the Green Heart of Austria.
It *is* very green here. Negotiating some switchbacks outside the town of Hirschegg, Austria
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7 Mar 2017
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We're taking all the backroads through Austria, waypointing all the squiggliest lines on the GPS
Stopping for an early lunch at the top of Moasterhaus... and to fix my GPS
The power cable on my GPS has been cutting out intermittently. I've isolated it to the fuse holder. Every once in a while, we have to stop to jiggle and re-seat the fuse for the power to come back on again. This is a pain in the butt because to get to the fuse holder, I need to take off all the soft bags and seat. Every time I need to stop to reseat the fuse, it sours my mood. Yes, yes... I've got a short fuse... this is no punny matter.
We walk into the chalet for lunch. And walk right back out again.
Note for the future. Don't eat at ski chalets in Austria. Expensive!!! This was a sharp reminder that we're no longer in the cheaper Eastern European countries. We're riding through RichLandia now. Time to find a grocery store... 
Back on the backroads through the Green Heart of Austria. There are ski hills everywhere around here!
So not only are we riding through an affluent country, we are riding through the resort area of an affluent country...
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7 Mar 2017
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7 Mar 2017
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The reason why we stayed at Zell Am See is that it's just 35 kms away from the northern entrance to the Großglockner (or Grossglockner for the Anglophones), the highest mountain in Austria. It's also home to the most famous alpine pass in the country. So excited!
Großglockner High Alpine Pass. Yes!!!
At the base of the Großglockner Road, we read the sign that laid out the entrance fee: €25.50 per motorcycle. *gasp* RichLandia strikes again! That's over $70 CDN for us to take a ride on some twisty roads... We had to have a mini-conference just outside the ticket booth to decide if it was worth it.
Throughout this entire journey, we've had to make budgetary decisions that reflect what's really important to us. Last night we slept in a €25 campsite and ate homemade sandwiches and soup because this trip isn't a €200/night hotel room/Three-Michelin-Star restaurant vacation. It's a motorcycle trip. Roads like this are the reason why we set off in the first place. Ride The World!!!
You know... despite saying all that out loud, dishing out $70 to ride a road is still quite painful. Damn you, RichLandia!
Just outside the entrance we meet some fellow bikers
This couple were from the US and they were visiting their relatives in Austria. I think it was her father who lived in the area and he had a garage full of motorcycles which he lent out to them for the day. He was taking them on an alpine pass motorcycle tour of Austria. While Neda was chatting to the American couple, the father took me aside and showed me all the good roads on my GPS. Cool!
Check out the view from the Großglockner Alpine Pass. This is what they are charging for...
Neda admiring the view. Spectacular!
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7 Mar 2017
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There are TONS of bikers out today enjoying the twisties!
Every biker we pass, I can't help but tally up the entrance fees everyone has paid... €25.50 from you, €25.50 there, €25.50 from that guy... Großglockner is German for Gro$$ Profits.
That's a cool-looking trike up ahead of us
We were told to check out the Visitor's Centre at the end of a cul-de-sac. We have a long riding day ahead of us, but since we paid so much to get in, we wanted to milk that entrance fee for all that it was worth!
Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Hohe Visitor's Centre
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Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...
2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.
"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.
Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.
Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!
What others say about HU...
"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia
"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK
"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia
"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada
"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa
"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia
"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany
Lots more comments here!
Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook
"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.
Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.
Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
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helps answer the question - Why Go? Inspirational stories by veteran travellers Greg Frazier (5 times RTW), Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries), Tiffany Coates (Mongolia Mayhem) and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers!
break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
Cotton or synth sweat-wicking t-shirts with the cool Horizons Unlimited graphic on the front and a snappy slogan (changing every year) on the back.
Show your route on your panniers. Great conversation starter when you meet people on the road!
Motorcycle and travel books to inspire and inform you!
The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour video series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to!" MCN UK.
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