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#1
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Help! Home made pannier problems??
I have searched for hours on the hubb.
I still cant find ideas on how to attach the actual aluminium pannier to the pannier frame that I will be making (not the bike frame). I would like them to have a quick release (not to thieves) if possible. Most old posts are in a foreign language or dont exixt anymore. Photos would be fantastic. Any ideas please?? Orrin
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#2
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If you make your pannier frame out of square section tubing ,you can weld some aluminium angle to your panniers that will fit over the frame .
Drill through both the frame and aluminium angle and fit a long bolt through the pair . If you have a thin strip of steel welded to the pannier frame that will hold the bolt head "captive" [ or in other words prevent it from rotating ] you can then attach the nut inside the pannier [use a wingnut if you wish]. When you lock the lid you will have prevented any access to the nut so it cannot be undone by a light fingered thief . The beauty about this system is that you are spreading the load over a wide area and the bolts do not take any strain except of course to hold the mountings together and prevent the pannier bouncing off .
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Blessed are the cracked, for they let in the light. - Spike Milligan "When you come to a fork in the road ,take it ! When you come to a spoon in the road ,take that also ." |
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#3
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As the other ride suggested, but instead of indenting the bolt head, weld it in place, then have the (we used 1" stainless tubing on the bottom) support hold the weight of the pannier and on the inside, instead of a nut, we have two of the ???knobs?? shaped like small wheels so the can be spun off easily. Ours looks a bit strange because we ride a scooter and the angles are not exactly straight up and down, but it works. On a dark night or with cold hands, you can still flip up the little levers that hold the wheels and spin them off and remove the pannier. A thief has no access.
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#4
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Quote:
Fasteners ~ Protex Fasteners Ltd John
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Nostradamus Ate My Hamster |
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#5
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EIBC would sell you a set of the poly mounts to fit their boxes I'm sure. Not the cheapest option perhaps, but they work quite well.
Matt
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http://adventure-writing.blogspot.com http://scotlandnepal.blogspot.com/ *Disclaimer* - I am not saying my bike is better than your bike. I am not saying my way is better than your way. I am not mocking your religion/politics/other belief system. When reading my post imagine me sitting behind a frothing pint of ale, smiling and offering you a bag of peanuts. This is the sentiment in which my post is made. Please accept it as such!
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#6
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on the tripplanning / bike pages is a rough page on panniers:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tri...e/panniers.php
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Grant Johnson Seek, and ye shall find. ------------------------ Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997! www.HorizonsUnlimited.com |
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#7
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Quote:
A simplified description that may help - a lip or ledge at the bottom or inside edge of the pannier that hooks over the lower rail of the rack, and then latches of some sort at the top to hold the pannier on. The latches can be obtained from a ships chandler - lots of yachty latches will work well and can be padlocked.
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Grant Johnson Seek, and ye shall find. ------------------------ Inspiring, Informing and Connecting travellers since 1997! www.HorizonsUnlimited.com |
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#8
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I've got the same issue. I think I’m going with this option largely modelled on the Touratech ideology.
![]() The idea is to tack (and get properly welded somewhere professionally as my ARC welding sucks) some SHS onto some angle section, and then get the nuts welded onto the SHS. The bolts are on the inside of the pannier. There will be 4 of these on the pannier. The locking bracket will be upside down along the top middle of the pannier rack. This nut is welded one with the bolt not too tight with loctite. The other bolt is the removable bolt for when I want to take the pannier off. The bracket then rotates down essentially using the loctite bolt as a hinge. You can see that the locking bracket is slightly offset from the tubing with most of the gap filled in by some adhesive rubber or foam to allow for the rotation. For lateral movement I’ll just drill the tubing and stick some M10 bolts through it on either side of a few brackets to lock them in. This should be pretty simple to construct. A bit of drilling, cutting and tacking. If you’re a better ARC welder than me, you could do the whole thing yourself. I’m staying away from aluminium brackets as the last brackets broke in a crash. Never in the mood to try and find a TIG welder. If they are a bit heavy, I’ll use half the angle section length. The SHS is not that heavy. |
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#9
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Fantastic info!!
Thanks
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#10
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Put a sheet (10 X 30 cm) of (thin 0.5 mm) steel inside the pannier behind the
U-profile (that goes over the rack) to prevent the holes from "bulging out". Aluminium is less "springy" then steel. Maarten
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