I just installed my new Zeeltronic CDI for the older CDI version XT's. Installation was very straight forward since I had already programmed my advance curve. The unit came programmed but I wanted to faithfully follow the curve in the manual so altered the setting just a bit. 7000 RPM limiter was already set and can be removed if desired. the 250 Minimum RPM for Kickback protection was already set and I left that as well.
The programmable CDI comes with the Stator Plug and the 2 bullet wires going to the Stator already installed. The other, shorter wire loom has the Orange wire female bullet connector for direct plug in to the coil. The other 2 wires is for the Kill function and is Black/white stripe and ground is a solid black and have the correct bullet connectors installed.
The models of XT's without the kickstand switch will plug in directly and only need the 8 wires provided. If your bike has the Kickstand switch there will be a plug to route the neutral light wire through the CDI and an input for the Sidestand switch.
By now many have already bypassed the faulty sidestand switch so it is really not necessary. If this is true for you then you need the basic model and currently the only model ready to purchase. My 86 has the side standstand switch and it was bypassed. I removed the plug close to the CDI location, added the appropriate bullet connectors to match the CDI and plugged it in. Part of the process is to connect the blue wire from the neutral switch to the sky blue wire going to the neutral light. Just plug them together or solder and tape them.
OK, so how does it run??? My seat dyno wants to say much better, but I don't know yet to be honest. The XT has so much power anyway at 1200 feet AMSL it just pulls your arms very hard. Starting is a 1 kick affair if warm. If sitting for a day or two or more, I learned here or another forum to do the following: gas on, key off, no throttle, Kick 3 or 4 times ( I do 3 times) fairly easily, then key on, kick slowly until the compression release clicks, release kicker then kick a full kick and 9 times out of 10 it will start right up. This was true using the Hyperpak unit as well.
As I was enjoying the ride, I reved it till the RPM limit hit. Engine just kind of fluttered and would rev NO higher. I grabbed the next gear and off I went.
There is another loom for optional use, one wire is for a shift light, one for driving an electronic tach and one to go to +12 volts if you want to use the handheld programmer with the engine off. If you use the USB cable and a Laptop, the USB port will power the unit for programming. You most likely will not need the programmer, but I like to "Know" how things are programmed. One last wire is for switching between two programmed advance curves by either grounding or un-grounding the wire via a handlebar mounted switch. You can make your own or buy one from Zeeltronics. His web site has various plugs and pins for crimping your own. Go to www.zeeltronics.com
. This unit is not listed yet but an email to Borut will bring you a response to your questions.
I will continue to ride and evaluate this unit and report honestly. So far I am happy.