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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 1 Nov 2012
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xt600 tenere 3aj not charging

HELP! wee problem with my xt ...about 350 miles in to my first european bike tour i come out of a service station and bike wont start off button,kick starts ok and i head off,then lights start to dim,ok prob with charging,getting dark and no lights so get lift from AA to london,next day take bike to local dealer as electrical knowledge is pretty poor,he suggests r/r,i drive to brigton buy one,fit it no joy,then he suggests generator do the same no joy,check connectors and wires around charging system seem ok,after four days of getting nowhere,give in,bus back home,get old slabby and start journey again,great adventure and gonna do it again next year but hopefully on xt this time round.
bike blowing fuses now every time i earth the r/r, but wasnt doing this initially before new generator and new r/r were fitted,has initial problem got worse?should i refit original generator,arrghhh any ideas very welcome
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  #2  
Old 2 Nov 2012
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Is the battery duff? have you had it load tested? and please don`t say "its a new battery" have you had it properly tested or tried another battery.

Mezo.
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  #3  
Old 2 Nov 2012
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bought new gel battery while away older battery has same results which is back in bike now
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Old 3 Nov 2012
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And the generator & rectifier are brand new also or used?

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  #5  
Old 5 Nov 2012
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both are new,pattern.
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  #6  
Old 6 Nov 2012
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Have you tried measuring resistance between positive & ground/negative, after the fuse i mean not with the thing hooked up to the battery, just to rule out a short in the wiring.

Then measure between your negative terminal & the frame to make sure you have a good ground there.

Its a matter of going back to basics & proving every item one by one im afraid, blowing fuses is fairly serious & don`t be tempted to up the rating of the fuse, that`s hiding a fault not finding it & you could have a meltdown.

Im a sparky by trade but i friggin hate bike/car shit, LoL

Mezo.
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  #7  
Old 7 Nov 2012
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Usually you trace this sort of thing to a short or dodgy connection somewhere.
I have seen some odd problems with a poor connection in one of the connector blocks. You will sometimes find a connector in these blocks which has corroded and therefore not connecting and somehow forcing a "re route" of power causing a fuse to blow.
If you can work through the connector blocks and check the individual connectors this may prove to be the cause!
Long winded I know but I have seen this many times.
Can you check/clean all your earth points too.

All the best bud, stick with it.
Dave.

Last edited by djorob; 7 Nov 2012 at 09:02.
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  #8  
Old 8 Nov 2012
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Thanks guys for the reply i was kind of thinking the problem is lying somewhere in the maze of wires..

started to clean up block connector from ignition switch to loom,popped out first mini blade connector(red one) to clean properly and it fell apart(very brittle and slightly green in colour),hopefully this might be the prob with my luck its prob not,also the black wire up at the barrel was loose/disconected,the 6 wires from the switch have all been cut and joined to fit onto the original block connector its looks a bit messy,got a new igniton switch from wemoto today and
its far too short with the wrong connector the same one as on the bike, found the correct one on dave lambeth ebay shop just now,thankfully this happened in winter.
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  #9  
Old 9 Nov 2012
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Unfortunately some peoples idea of wiring leaves a lot to be desired.

Here`s a couple of pics from my old 3AJ loom, i laid it out on the bench & went through every join soldering & heatshrinking until i was happy.

Just some of the horror joins.













Some of the crappy connections i removed & guys wonder why there bikes break down.



Im amazed it never caught fire.

And its so simple to do it right, solder & heat shrink & then tape it back in to the loom, jobs a good un.





Then clean all your connectors with an acid solution, don't leave them soaking for more than a few mins or you will tarnish the copper.





Any dodgy looking ones i removed from the connector block & cleaned with wet & dry paper (what was handy but gets in the small bits)



Close up any female connectors to get a better join, we all like a tight fit eh. Then treat yourself to some dielectric grease for all the connector blocks right throughout your bike (all of them).

Read this, The Miracle of Dielectric Grease

If you at least get your wiring sorted properly then if you have a fault on the road its far easier to diagnose as you can rule out the ol "dodgy wiring"

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  #10  
Old 10 Nov 2012
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Mezo, your photo's had me nodding and smiling!
Seen all sorts on peoples bikes, twisted together and insulated with chewing gum, selotape, a plaster from a first aid box.
Big thumb up for silicone grease, £4 a tube from maplin, I use it liberally on my connectors.
Good luck with the fault finding Tenere.
Dave.
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  #11  
Old 10 Nov 2012
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The green wire was just loosely twisted together without any insulation whatsoever, and the previous owner was a Porsche mechanic???

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Old 11 Nov 2012
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A quick tip for properly soldering wires together with flux solder:

1- Cut the wires a bit longer than you need them as you'll have to take the insulation off to be able to solder both ends of the cables.

2- Pass the heatshrink wrap over one of the cables and try to pull it a bit away from where you are soldering or it'll shrink where you left it if it is too close to the joint!

3- Open the BOTH ends of the cables to join (spread the thin pieces of copper like a tree)

4- Join the both ends of the cables until you can make the insulation from both ends almost touch each other.

5- Hold one side of the wires and tightly wrap the other half of the wires.
6- Hold the side you've just wrapped and wrap the other side of the cables IN THE SAME DIRECTION but backwards as you did before. This creates a very tight connection by itself!

7- Heat the joint with the solder iron for 1 to three seconds! (to avoid burning the insulation)

8- Apply the solder on top of the joint and put the soldering iron beneath the joint!

You should now have a pretty strong and good looking soldered joint!

9- Let it cool down for about half a minute and slide the shrinkwrap over the joint and for god sake don't use the soldering iron to apply heat to the shrinkwrap!

I'll try to post a few pictures tomorrow to show this..


Vando


P.S.: In step 6 I said: "Hold the side you've just wrapped and wrap the other side of the cables IN THE SAME DIRECTION but backwards as you did before. This creates a very tight connection by itself!"

Imagine you're wrapping the first half with your right hand in a clockwise direction (as if you were tightening a bolt) you have to wrap the other side WITH THE LEFT HAND also in a clockwise direction.....

Vando

Last edited by bacardi23; 15 Nov 2012 at 11:51.
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  #13  
Old 13 Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi23 View Post
I'll try to post a few pictures tomorrow to show this..


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Old 15 Nov 2012
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Dropped the soldering iron on the floor.. broke the tip ground it with the angle grinder with a special grinding disc I use for my TIG welding...but it's not that good..

Anyway, here are the pictures I promissed Mezo..

ImageShack Album - 7 images


Sorry for the pic quality.. old camera :S

Vando
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Old 15 Nov 2012
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Oh.. I prefer to use 1mm thick 60%Sn 40%Pb with 2% flux silver solder!

Vando
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