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TT600RE-Loose valves and a white plug–pics and questions. TT600RE-Loose valves and a white plug–pics and questions.
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by George Guille, It's going to be a long 300km... Bolivian Amazon

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It's going to be a long 300km...
Bolivian Amazon



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Old 21 Jun 2009
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TT600RE-Loose valves and a white plug–pics and questions.
Hi all


I adjusted the valves on my 2005 TT600RE tonight and took a look at the spark plug. It now has 12.000 km on the clock. I just love to work on this bike, everything is sooo easy..


A few questions:


1.There are three unused connectors under the tank. Does anyone know what they are for?



2.The sparkplug looks pretty “white” (lean?) to me. I was hoping for a little more brownish color. Does this sparkplug look like it should?



3.The engine feels like it has a “flat spot” (lean?) in the powerband just before the second carburetor opens (I think). I did adjust the screw, to make the second carburetor open a little sooner. Has anyone played with this screw? Results?




4.Both of the intake valves and one of the exhaust valves were loose (too much gap). So three of the four valves had too much gap. Strange. Is this normal for this engine? (I expected the gap to tighten)
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Old 21 Jun 2009
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That plug looks OK to me. Perhaps a little lean (I think the ideal colour is 'biscuit brown'), but there's no sign of any overheating. If you get discoloration of the ceramic core, blistering and erosion of the tips, that's overheating.

Valve clearances getting bigger is normal. If they reduce, it is usually a sign of valve seat recession, and trouble. Just adjust them correctly and keep an eye on them, I think.
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Old 21 Jun 2009
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Yeah, looks a little too lean... it should be looking the same color as the thing you have the arrow pointing at...

Vando
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Old 21 Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G600 View Post
Hi all


I did adjust the screw, to make the second carburetor open a little sooner. Has anyone played with this screw? Results?
you can adjust it to make the butterfly in the cv carb open earlier.....but check that the butterfly is horizontal when the slide is at the top on first carb....

let us know how you get on, i think the butterfly should start opening when slide is 6mm (?) open, you can use a drill bit to measure
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Old 30 Aug 2009
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Nowadays (post 2000) bikes are much more efficient (with closer tolerances) and due to emmission restrictions are designed to run on a much leaner setup.

What used to be the 'norm' with light brown/tan plugs is NOT the 'norm' for the latest engines... using modern cr*p unleaded fuel.

As long as you keep to unleaded over 90 octane (RON) and the engine is NOT pinking (detonating due to pre-ignition) should be OK.
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Old 30 Aug 2009
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Doesn't look bad, keep riding, its not an issue.
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Old 30 Aug 2009
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Thanks guys. I have been riding the bike hard for the last few weeks, no pinging, runs great.

A little off topic - I fitted a knobby tire in the front, and fitted the rear wheel from my KTM400 to the TT. On real knobby’s the bike goes everywhere my light bikes go, and is a blast on fire roads. I like the bike more and more, I did not expect it to be this good off-road when I bought it. It is heavy and short-suspended after all. I even have even jumped a little, the bike handles some light jumping just fine. This motorcycle sure is a fine do-it-all bike
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Old 31 Aug 2009
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Hey G600, how easy was the front wheel swap into the TTR ? What was in volved....:confused1:
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Old 31 Aug 2009
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Pigford, after an evening of measuring I decided not to swap the front wheel from the KTM to the TT600. Too much work involved.

However I did fit the KTM rear wheel to the TT600. Easy to do, and after all replacing the rear tire is the real pain in the butt.

So now I have two rear wheels for the TT, one with a knobby and one with the street tire, but when I swap from knobbys to street (and vice versa) I must replace the tire on the front wheel.
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