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| Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions. |
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#1
20 Sep 2011
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Oil leak from neutral switch assy on my 1990 XT600E
Hey guys.
My bike is leaking from the Neutral switch assy.. It's that piece that looks like a sparkplug and is located below the CS sprocket and a small cable attaches to it.. How does one replace it? Should I expect a lot of oil coming out from that crankcase hole? I was thinking to just clean it out as best as possible and put some JB Weld (Waterweld version). Would this work as a temporary fix? I really don't know how the neutral switch works.. If someone cared to explain? Thanks! Vando 
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#2
20 Sep 2011
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Not the most common of leak but it does happen.
This switch is threaded in like a spark plug and it 'Probably' has a crush washer or an o-ring. You will need to drain your oil, remove the switch and replace the ring/washer. Obviously, clean the threads and the mating surfaces. It will probably be TIGHT but maybe easy to come out if it's weeping oil. The switch is literally a switch. When the gear selector is in the neutral position, a contact will pass over the switch inside the bike and complete the circuit. It's so that little green light shows up on your dashboard and works in conjunction and works with your side stand/clutch lever switch on the starter circuit (so you can't start the bike in gear with the clutch out or with the side stand down) 
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Technician, BMW Chester Motorrad. www.TouringTed.com 1994 XR650L 2001 NX650 Dominator. Now that's more information than I care for interpol to know :/
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#3
20 Sep 2011
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Thanks Ted!
It's actually leaking from that black part on the picture right next to the "copper" tip.... Indeed, weird..Still, bike is 21yo.. I searched the microfiche and it is labled as a gasket but I think it's a copper washer.. (is that what you call as a crush washer?) I've taken all the plastics and fuel tank off the bike and I was thinking of leaning the bike on it's side, cleaning it up really nice where the switch is located and JB weld the black "rubberish" part and hopefully leak will temporary stop? Can I do this or does it need to be "loose" so the inside won't stick? It's just a temp fix because I "accidentally" bought a second pair of raptor 660 carbs for parts....and I'm saving up to pay taxes on my RK x-ring chainkit as it's currently at the Customs depot  Thanks again Ted! 
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#4
20 Sep 2011
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Well if it's from that part then I would do what you suggested with the JB weld.
Get it nice and rough though and REALLY REALLY get all the oil and moisture off it or the JB weld will just fall off after a few day/weeks.
__________________
Technician, BMW Chester Motorrad. www.TouringTed.com 1994 XR650L 2001 NX650 Dominator. Now that's more information than I care for interpol to know :/
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#5
22 Sep 2011
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Well... The leak is definitely from there..
I removed it and put in a bolted bolt with the same size and thread pitch and after 5 hours it still hasn't leaked one drop of oil.. The neutral switch assy was cleaned, degreased, rubbed with some thin grit water-sandpaper, cleaned and degreased again...The JB weld is currently curing so it should be ready tomorrow afternoon... Will let know how it turned out.. One thing... should I go with a pattern neutral switch assy or buy Original Yamaha part? It's about 20€ give or take... Thanks! Vando
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#6
22 Sep 2011
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I always use pattern. You don't think Yamaha make them themselves do you
 It's only a very simple switch. You could always just leave the bolt in wire the switch closed although you will have to say goodbye to your green light lol
__________________
Technician, BMW Chester Motorrad. www.TouringTed.com 1994 XR650L 2001 NX650 Dominator. Now that's more information than I care for interpol to know :/
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#7
22 Sep 2011
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uhmmm I don't think I can...
I don't have a clutch switch because the ASV levers for the YZ brackets bracket don't have slots for either the clutch nor the rear brake light switch. I managed to get a hydraulic rear brake light switch and crimped the cable ends so I could just plug them to the XT's wiring.. works perfectly! wemoto is selling the neutral switch for 12.5£ + shipping... I just might get one of those... Still, I'll see how the fix on mine holds up.... Thanks Ted!
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#8
22 Sep 2011
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Well.. I just contacted the Yamaha Dealer in the island "next door".. 23€ plus shipping....under 30€ and it should arrive here in just a few days..
damn.. one peace oh shi* 30€ F-ME!  Anyway... hope it should be all!
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#9
22 Sep 2011
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Well, at least the leak is gone! JB weld seems to be holding good for now..
Oh, my RK X-Ring chainkit and JT 15-47 sprockets have arrived! I just need to remember how does one remove the CS sprocket... (If I'm thinking of this it must be because it is the counterclockwise )Vando
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#10
9 May 2012
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Question on the same Part
My Neutral light is always on, no matter what gear I am in and my red "REV" light is now never on. Could it be that the switch just went out?
This is on my 90 xt600e 3UY
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#11
9 May 2012
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It could be bad, but it could also be a shorting wire "bypassing" the switch.
Lean the bikeover toward the right, and remove the switch, its pretty easy, and see if the switch sticks.
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#12
10 May 2012
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Thanks guys, actually it was a break in the wire that was grounding it out. Simple tape coating and presto works fine again. Thanks
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#13
10 May 2012
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Hey guys!
Coots: Which one wire color was it? Right now after bypassing the neutral switch my neutral light stays lit all the time... Jens.. You've bypassed your sidestand switch long ago, did the green light stay always lit after that? I think I've got a misplaced wire???? Vando 
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#14
10 May 2012
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Sidestandswitch has nothing to do with neutral light. The light will glow when in neutral, sidestandswitch or not (and enabled or disabled)
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#15
11 May 2012
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Yeah sorry, I was trying to say something else..
Anyway... problem solved...when I refitted the LHS engine cover, although I tried to avoid it, I found out a couple of hours ago, that I'd squashed the Blue neutral cable that goes to the Neutral switch between the engine and the LHS casing thus grounding it... One weird thing is.. The neutral light doesn't fully shut off It is just barely lit... I don't know how Vando 
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