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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 26 Oct 2011
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Exhausted !

Hi all ! Attempting to replace the exhaust studs on my xt (2003). One had snapped before I got anywhere near the bike and I managed to snap the other three all by myself ! (and I had soaked them in penetrating oil for weeks in readiness) It was suggested that I remove the head for better access, which Ive done. However before I start drilling the remnants of old studs out, Ive encountered an unexpected problem with the headers insomuch as they are rusted solid to the cylinder head. Because the old pipe was rusted through in a few places Ive cut it off thinking I would be able to get molegrips on the left over pieces and lever them out easily, Wrong! Anybody got any ideas or top tips to remove them ?

Ive yet to order a head gasket, any particular places I should buy one from ?

And finally......

Is there an alternative to "yamaha bond 1215" used for sealing the rocker cover to the head, assuming I ever get the studs and exhaust bits out ?

Many thanks for any help guys !
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Old 26 Oct 2011
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Ahhh been there myself.

I strongly strongly suggest that you remove the head of the bike. Saw the headers off is necessary. They sound like they are rotted through.

Anyway, Motad sell stainless steel header pipes for the XT600. Or they did !!

As for removing the studs, I would say drilling should be your last option. The alloy in the head is soft and the studs are quite thin.

Is there ANY stud still pertruding out of the head. If there is, weld on a nut, bolt, metal handle etc to remove it. Then SUPER heat the join to get them moving.

As for removing the headers, A LOT of heat and a hammer.
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Old 26 Oct 2011
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Hi Ted !

Thanks for the quick reply!

Three of the studs have enough thread showing to get a nut on. The

remaining one is flush with the head. i will try the heat option- never

thought the headers would be soooo rusty though !

Bill
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Old 26 Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awolxt View Post
Hi Ted !

Thanks for the quick reply!

Three of the studs have enough thread showing to get a nut on. The

remaining one is flush with the head. i will try the heat option- never

thought the headers would be soooo rusty though !

Bill
Seriously though... Remove the head. It is the only way to do a good job.

Ted
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Old 26 Oct 2011
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Yes mate - took your advice and removed the head. Wouldnt of liked to

try it in situ, hard enough as it is now phew!



Bill
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Old 27 Oct 2011
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The other stud you will have to weld some "drops" one over the other untill you get enough height to get grip with one of those "pressure pliers" (dunno the right name..mole grips?) And follow the rest as described!

And don't worry, you don't have to be worried of welding the bolt to the head alluminum and steel just don't match.


Easiest way to weld, you either scratch-start and do a few circles at a time, let it cool, clean the slag and scratch-start again and do a few more circles.
If you don't remove the slag it's gonna be too weak...

Harder way to do is: scratch-start and do a few circles, let it just barely cool off(it has to stay glow/red) and do some more circles. If it cools too much you need to remove the slag.


Vando
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Old 28 Oct 2011
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Plus one for the "weld a nut on" method. It worked for me and I left the head on and the engine in the bike. It also worked for getting the front brake disc screws out after I'd ground the heads off them all.

From the feel of how they unscrewed, I think the application of the extreme heat from the welder did the trick. The welded on nut allows decent grip from a hex socket - try not to use a 12-point one in the first place, I find that if they don't undo reasonably easily first time, a 12-point or bi-hex socket just rounds them off.

With the header pipes if you saw through them close to the head then use a hammer and chisel to fold what's left in towards the centre you should be able to get the remains out quite easily.

PS - The drilling method has only ever worked for me once, and that was a stud much bigger than the tiny M6 things here, if you drill it off centre then you're in for a world of trouble.

Regards - Alastair.
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Old 28 Oct 2011
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hi there i very much agree with the weld a nut on way , or even blobs of weld , i resently got a snaped off bleed nipple out of a caliper by knocking in a small allen key in to the hole welding it on to what was left of the nipple and simply unwinding it out with the allan key. as seid above if you screw up drilling it out you have got BIG problems good luck zigzag
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Old 29 Oct 2011
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Just bought a XT600 with two broken exhaust studs, not the sort of posts I wanted to read first up.

Last time I used the weld on trick was when I was trying to get the head off the slant four in a Triumph TR7 sports? car.

$4000- and six months latter it had a V8 in it - I hope the XT works out better.
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Old 29 Oct 2011
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Hi everyone ! The "head" is with a mechanic colleague who has done a quite a few bike studs with success and intends to use heat- scarily though, he said he said he has not seen one as bad as mine! Wished id got pictures now to show you all ! Thanks for all the advice I will keep you posted.

Bill
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Old 4 Nov 2011
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Hello All

Well ! what an ordeal that was ....... Mechanic got the remaining bits of header out, but no joy with the studs. I ended up drilling them and tapping new threads. Put stainless steel replacements in, so fingers crossed there will be no need to get them out again.......

Just waiting for head gasket to arrive and then the reassembly begins....

Thanks for all the advice and keep watching this space, cos im sure there will be a part I wont remember taking off or which way up it goes !

Bill
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Old 4 Nov 2011
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Copper grease those studs inn, is alway what I was taught.
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