I'm having problems with my XTZ660.

The bike is used every day (occasionally 1 day without use) for short journeys to work - about 10 miles each way - in the dark at the moment.

Each day the battery gets less powerful until today (1 day without use)it whirred to start for 3 or 4 turns of the engine and then didn't have enough power to continue.

I've used jump leads to start it, and fortunately took them with me as it stalled on the way to work. A nice biker stoppped to help me out and we jumped it off his battery.

Possible problems:

* The battery is not re-charging because of the short distances?
* The rectifier is not working properly?

Is the rectifier the black metal-finned device inside the right fairing - mounted on the sub frame?

Can I test it? What voltage should be coming out of what Terminals? Can I test the current without actually splitting a wire?

Any help would be much appreciated, many thanks in davance.

Tony R.

Yeah, thats your rectifier, i,m no technical guru but it really sounds like the battery is on the way out. If you take it for a good run and it doesnt charge sufficently its probably done for. How old is it?, do you use elecky clothing? Is it well topped up with distilled water?
with the cold spells comming on alot of peeps are finding themselves in this position...me included.... untill i replace it i keep jump leads on the bike.

I'm no expert (and I don't have an XTZ), but this is what I'd do:

Get a multimeter, and attach it to your battery terminals. Switch it to "20V" and watch the battery voltage while you start, run and rev the bike. Also test the charging current with the lights on. At the same time you can check the cells and water level in the battery.

I think it should be at 13-14V when the bike's running and the charging circuit is AOK. Do you have extra-wattage bulbs or any electrical accessories?

A marginal battery won't work when it's been frozen overnight - perhaps it's time for a new one? Be aware that the reg/rec is not a cheap part (~80-100 GBP?)

With 2x 55/60W bulbs in my XT it only charges at above 4000 rpm when the lights are on. This means that progressively, over a couple of weeks in town the battery drains and I end up bump starting (like this morning).

I also end up running on sidelights when really I should on headlights, to save the battery!

Many thanks folks for all the advice - I've not got any accessories on the bike (eleec ones) but the twin front lights must drain it quite a bit.

the battery iss only 11 months old (think?) but if it's like your XT then my tootling around in the 3000 to 4000 RPM on the way to ork won't be charging it..

Will attach a volt meter over the weekend and see what happens.

Hopefully my folks have got me an Optimate 3 for Christmas so I can attach it to that each night.

Many thanks once again. Any other suggestions welcome.

Tony.

Hi

Mmm... stalling because of a draining battery? It sounds more like a small shortcut to me! I´d try with the same voltage-meter, but I´d check for any current with the engine "off" too: Be sure to unplug the (head and tail)lights. It happened to me.

Bye

Tim

Hello Tony,

be careful because we have a very special battery and a very peculiar charging system that cannot be compared with 600's.
The battery has gel around the plates in cotton-wool. There is no liquid and we cannot fill it. If you charge it once with a common charger [that produces 14V or more] it's life is over. You should only use a drip-charger with max. 12,2V.
The rectifier/regulator needs feedback from a battery that has min. abt. 10,5V otherwise it will not charge.
The system has enough power, even at low revs, to keep things running and to charge. I/m using a single 100W headlight, without problems.
I assume you have model 96-98 from your twin headlights and the finned regulator. Model 91-95 uses a regulator that tends to melt down after about 1-1,5 year. Dont know about the new model but should be better.
This is what I would do : a) measure battery voltage, then start and b) measure again with engine running, then c) again at 3500 rpm. Should be : a) 11,8-12,2V b) 12,4-13V c) 14-15V.
Success and let us know.



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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.

Hi
There seems to be alot of confusion with this one.
A 12volt lead acid battery whether liquid or gel will, if in good condition, have a rest voltage of 12.8volts.
A battery will only charge if the charging voltage is above this figure(in normal use).
Any XT600/660/750 will just about manage this at fast tickover with all the usual lights etc switched on.
With a voltmeter attached to the battery and with a few thousand rpm you should see a figure of 13.5volts or more.
This test can only be done with a good battery as a faulty or flat one will upset the regulator, so connect a 12volt battery that you know is good and fully charged.
If you are getting this voltage ok but you are still having problems then suspect battery problems.
The only batterys I would use in an XT would be a genuine Yuasa..MADE IN JAPAN (not licenced by Yuasa and made elsewhere).A proper Jap Yuasa will last forever and give much better cranking current.
David Lambeth.

one easy way to test your rectifier is to start up, turn your headlight on and face up to a wall or something so you can see the light. blip the throttle from idle, your headlight should get a bit brighter.

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dave