we're just arrived today in islamabad, coming down from the KKH. we entered in pakistan at khunjerab pass on sept. 1, so it took us 11 days to cross it. road conditions are bad as for reconstruction and continuous landslides and other hassles. going down after sost, by the way, we get our pakistan visa there, with no any LOI, just 5 minutes and 24 $ as italian, there was a broken bridge in husseini. we had to manage with some locals to built up a capable wooden catwalk to let the bikes pass through (10,000 rps for 7 bikes). then the lake; actually the north shore is few kms after passu. we upload the bikes on two boats (10,000 rps each boat), cross the lake and downloaded on the south shore, obiviously by hands. there we had to pay another 3,000 rps for the disembarkment, then we had to push the bikes up on a steepy track in the middle of a crowdy stuff area. after gilgit another landslide has blocked the KKH. 30/40 meters of a narrow & sharp rocky footpath where to get the bike through by hands. after this we took the babusar pass route to get into kaghan valley; beautiful landscapes but reverse thumb for the first 70 kms road coming from chilas.
now i'm waiting to get into india to do once again the manali-leh route.