23 Mar 2009
New on the HUBB
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NM, USA
Turn Signal Beeper Mod
This beeper modification is based on the original posts of
Phantom Rider and Dan Oaks
You’ll need a 12VDC Piezo buzzer (#273-060) and a Bridge Rectifier (#276-1152) from Radio Shack,
probably found in the electronics parts drawers next to LED bulbs, transistors, switches, etc.
The buzzer is about $5.00 and the B.R. is about $3.00
You’ll also need some wire to run to the blinker splices,
some electrical tape &/or shrink wrap, a solder gun and some solder,
and maybe 6” of metal mount and two small wire nuts.
The #273-060 buzzer is black and round, heat-rated to 140 degrees F. at 3.0 - 28VDC / 5mA.
It has two wires coming out of it- one black/negative & one red/positive.
The #276-1152 Bridge Rectifier is 100VDC / 1500mA.
It has four leads coming out of the bottom- one pos., one neg.,
and two other wires both signified as ‘AC’.
Refer to the back of the packaging when installing.
The BR will look similiar to this one:
Solder the black/neg. wire from the buzzer to the Neg. wire of the BR,
and solder the red/pos. wire from the buzzer to the Pos. wire coming from the BR.
Positive is marked with a ‘+’ on the top of the Bridge Rectifier-
negative is directly opposite/below Positive,
and the leads on either side of Pos. will go to each blinker.
Don’t get the BR too hot when soldering and shrink-wrapping on the leads.
Be sure to clip a heat sink (alligator clip) between the rectifier and the point of soldering to protect it from the heat.
Tape or shrink tube all leads and connections as you go.
I found the two buzzer wires long enough to connect directly to the BR-
you may choose to strip and tin the ends of two small pieces of wire
and add these between the buzzer and the BR.
Solder two long wires (about 2 or 3 feet each) to the remaining two wires of the BR-
these long wires will later be cut-to-length at the splice-in point of
the positive wires going to each blinker on the bike.
Shrink-wrap or carefully tape the four connections separately,
then wrap again over all together.
For the buzzer container I used a round plastic (‘IceBreakers’) mint case with a snap-on lid.
I removed the labels and sanded & painted the outside of it black.
Then I mounted the buzzer into it with two small bolts and nuts through the plastic mounts on the sides of the buzzer.
I laid the taped-up Bridge Rectifier & splices section along-side of the buzzer,
taped it all down inside the case, and routed the two long wires out through a pre-drilled hole.
I attached the case to the inside of the fairing,
using about 5 inches of that roll out metal mounting strip with holes in it.
I just removed the side fairing screw,
slipped the bracket in along the inside of the fairing,
and put the screw back in through one of the holes in the bracket.
This avoids drilling a hole in the fairing.
On a KLR, you may be able to locate your splices under the wiring cover behind the tach.
Splices there would be more weather resistant and not visible.
I already have two splices under there and it’s getting crowded,
so I went the obvious easy route and spliced-in near where
the turn signal wires enter the front two turn signals.
Splice the two long wires from the BR to each of the positive leads going to your signals.
On my 2007 KLR650 these wires are gray- I did not disturb the black/yellow negative wire.
It doesn’t matter which BR wires go to which blinker.
Each left and right splice will have three wire ends in it-
I put on a small wire nut, then taped the nut.
This setup is loud enough to hear at idle with a helmet on,
and puts out a good level of beeping for me- loud enough but not too loud.
You can insulate the buzzer further to bring down the volume.
Dan installs one of these on his XT225 and DR650 here:
dirtly.com: Bierdoâ€™s Motorcycle Web Pages
Last edited by ellsworth; 24 Mar 2009 at 19:31.