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Old 8 Feb 2011
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Setting the bead, how? With fire?

I have just realised that the "motorcycle" I want will come with tubeless tyres, and since I figure they'd be much harder to seat than tubed ones, what do you think of think of this method (notice that for the second tyre he has donned welder's gloves, which seems like the right thing to do from the get-go):



Do any of you use the method? Or have you found another method that works as well, albeit slower?

I'm asking because I fully expected the reverse trike I'm ordering would have had tubed tyres, but it turns out it doesn't. The rear wheel isn't even spoked, because it's much smaller than the front wheels.

Oh, and it'll be a year before I can get it delivered since there are 372 on the waiting list (with paid deposits) before me. So I might as well give these things some thought in the meantime.
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Old 8 Feb 2011
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Seen it done, but struck me as a party trick for the tourists rather than something I'd want to do.

For punctures use external plugs, they work well and you don't need to carry a bead breaker. On tyre change days either go to a shop with a big, fast compressor or use a bicycle inner tube pressed across the gap until it seals.

It's a PITA the Morgan having odd sized wheels, I'd want it to be able to carry a spare wheel. Far easier to change the wheel and sort the flat one away from the side of the road.

Andy
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Old 8 Feb 2011
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If you have a problem seating the tyre bead, put a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tyre and ratchet it up a couple of notches to seat the bead against the wheel. Remove the valve core before inflating the tyre to get the air in as quick as possible.

Once seated, remove strap, fit valve core and re-inflate.
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Old 9 Feb 2011
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Thank you both of you.

I guess it's doable with some practice without fire burning at explosive speeds. That eases my mind.

The rear wheel will be belt-driven and have a single side swing arm. That single side thing might make it easier to swap tires is the sidewall is screwed. I'm gathering there's a bigger risk of sidewall damage to this than a proper two-wheel motorcycle, simply because it doesn't lean into the corners.

I too am a bit miffed it doesn't have the same size wheel all around, but I'm currently wondering if that might be a plus in the end. I figure it's more likely that the rear wheel blows up than the front wheels because of weight and torsion, and since it has a boot above and around the wheel casing, there might be space for an extra tyre for the reduced-size rear wheel.

With regards to tyre fixing, I think I'll ask around and ask people if I can have a go at plugging tyres they are intending to throw away anyway, and while I'm at it, try the different non-fire methods of seating the bead as well as breaking the bead.

I hadn't thought of removing the valve core, that is one good advice, methinks.

A bit off-topic, but I thought it might interest some of you:
I asked if it came with seatbelts so one wasn't flung out in accident, even if it was to be registered as a motorcycle. They said that it does indeed come with seatbelts and that "soon after" the Geneva launch the 3rd of March they will have an options list with a bit more specs one can download.

I forgot to ask about the headlights - something I hadn't given much thought until I began reading this site, but I hope it comes with HID or at least that that is an option. If not, that is something that should be possible to get by a 3rd party. I want to be noticed in traffic. And that thing is low and dark from the front and rear.
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Old 9 Feb 2011
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Sidecars regularly run car tyres. There is no more or less risk of a puncture or sidewall damage they just last about 10 times longer when run without any lean over.

If it's a single sided swingarm with bolt on wheels, you have two options. Have an adapter made so you can fit a standard size wheel all round just like we do with BMW's. You might have to change the gearing and shock in the worst case. Plan B is to hope the bolt PCD is standard and buy a spacesaver spare. You won't be doing much over 40 mph with one corner at the wrong height by an inch or so, but you can at least pick your spot to fit it.

Andy
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Old 9 Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
Sidecars regularly run car tyres. There is no more or less risk of a puncture or sidewall damage they just last about 10 times longer when run without any lean over.
Nice! That's very good to know!


Quote:
If it's a single sided swingarm with bolt on wheels, you have two options. Have an adapter made so you can fit a standard size wheel all round just like we do with BMW's. You might have to change the gearing and shock in the worst case.
I can only assume it will be a single-bolt job like the front wheels, but then again, my assumptions on that vehicle has been pretty much wrong all the way up till now.

One thing, I doubt it will be possible to fit a much larger wheel without eliminating the boot/trunk and have to redo the wheel case, and with my thinking (by now), one would probably have to extend the swingarm.



Quote:
Plan B is to hope the bolt PCD is standard and buy a spacesaver spare. You won't be doing much over 40 mph with one corner at the wrong height by an inch or so, but you can at least pick your spot to fit it.
That sounds more like something up my alley, but maybe, just maybe (noone would know this yet, except the guys at Morgan), one could fit an extra rear tyre in the boot/trunk, and then have one of those emergency spares for the front. Or perhaps fit a regular tire flat under the bonnet/hood, if it has a space under there like the ACE cycle-car.

Sheesh, it would be so much easier if I could see it in real life or at least see some real life pictures of it.

Perhaps I'm overthinking it - I have that tendency.

It might solve itself when it comes to space, since I won't be using the passenger footwell for a passenger, so maybe that's the solution.
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