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  #1  
Old 27 Apr 2012
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12v power outlet installation

Ahoy

I made this post on the KORider (Hyosung) forum on how to install a 12v power outlet on your moto. I believe that the directions will work for most sports touring bikes and the principles should transfer to all motorbikes.

Here are the instructions, hopefully you find them simple and helpful.... BTW I have no affiliation with super cheap auto and am not intentionally plugging the KO forum.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have recently installed a 12v power outlet into the dash of my GT650s so I can charge my phone and camera while on tour.

The process will take a couple of hours but is relatively simple and I will make my best effort to explain it in a simple way.

Tools and supplies

-Cordless drill
-Whole-saw to fit
-Pliers with wire strippers (to strip the ends of all the wires)
-Phillips head screwdriver
-15amp mini blade fuse
-Waterproof mini blade fuse holder
-All weather 12v power outlet
-Cable ties
-One screw cable joiner
-30cm of waterproof wire

Here is the end result

http://i.imgur.com/1ifA1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/16Bil.jpg

Under the pillion seat

http://i.imgur.com/7Ghrn.jpg

and with the fuse cap off

http://i.imgur.com/wPoN9.jpg

Instructions

First you will need to unscrew the plastic dash with a Philips head screwdriver.

Secure the dash and drill a hole with the whole-saw attachment either to the far bottom left of far bottom right.

Place the power outlet into the freshly drilled hole and screw the dash back onto the bike.

Unscrew the two screws that hold the seat in place so you can access the bikes battery, disconnect the battery from the terminals,

Run the cables from the power outlet on the inside of the bikes frame and connect the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery. Run the red wire through to the glove compartment under the pillion seat.

Connect the red wire from the outlet to the waterproof fuse holder using the one screw wire connectors. Place a 15amp fuse in the fuse holder and secure the holder to the inside of the glove compartment using cable ties. Connect the other wire from the fuse holder to the 30cm of waterproof wire (using the connectors) and run that wire through to the positive terminal on the battery.

Make sure to arrange the cables in a tidy manner and use the cable ties to secure the wires to the frame of the bike wherever you see fit.

I am happy to answer any queries over IM or through this thread.


Last edited by Bertrand; 27 Apr 2012 at 16:54. Reason: ads
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  #2  
Old 17 May 2012
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It's good work but I placed the power outlet under the pillion seat so ı can leave the phone in the glove compartment while charging. It's also safer. Ypu know out of sight ...
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  #3  
Old 19 Sep 2012
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This is fantastic. Thankyou for taking the time.

The suggestion by ethemhakagencer is tops too.
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  #4  
Old 20 Sep 2012
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I use this

KFZ-EURO-BORDSTECKDOSE 12V/10A, 170 CM KABELBAUM - Louis - Motorrad & Freizeit

and have 12 Volt in one of my boxes to be able to charge stuff while its savely locked...

Tobi
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  #5  
Old 20 Sep 2012
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It's worthwhile considering a relay in between battery and socket, wired to something that only comes on when your ignition is on. I didn't and found water/damp managed to get into my "waterproof" socket which then shorted and flattened my battery overnight.

Relays sound more complicated with extra wires, and having to splice into your existing loom, and it's another box to squeeze into one if the crevices of our bikes, but having had that sickening dull clunk noise of a starter motor failing to turn over while the bike is parked on the flat on loose gravel (which is a pita to push start in), they're well worth installing.
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  #6  
Old 20 Sep 2012
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Well you could easily steel some electricity from the head light insted of taking it from the battery but i prefere to have electricity even if the key is not there...
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  #7  
Old 22 Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta-rider View Post
Well you could easily steel some electricity from the head light insted of taking it from the battery but i prefere to have electricity even if the key is not there...
Which is why, despite the fact I just spouted on about relays I have just uninstalled mine, and to get round having a live socket all the time, I've fitted a small (hopefully far more) waterproof switch instead, that way its only on when I want it, but it can be on without having to leave the keys in (useful the other day when I locked my flat,batteried phone under the seat to charge overnight while camping).
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  #8  
Old 22 Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexlebrit View Post
(useful the other day when I locked my flat,batteried phone under the seat to charge overnight while camping).
So that didn't drain your bike battery? I know almost nothing about this stuff but that surprises me!
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  #9  
Old 23 Sep 2012
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There is a lot in DC electrics that can be compared to plumbing if it helps you get your head round it. The bike battery is a bucket (usually at least 20 Ah), the phone a cup (10 mAh, or 0.01 Ah, or 200 times smaller), filling the cup from the bucket won't empty it even with some losses along the way. Now if the cup is leaking because facegooglepedia does 10 updates an hour you have a different problem. Most phones however will charge when switched off.

Easy way to fit a relay is to cut into or piggyback onto the rear light feed. The relay coil in series with an LED tail lamp is a very similar load to a standard lamp so no issues there. Most bikes will be fine even if you stick with normal lamps. I run both, a switched supply to a DIN socket and USB near the clocks for GPS/phone etc. and an unswitched DIN half under the tank for heated kit or the compressor.

I see three things that often concern me with electrical installations like this, the fuse ratings, use of household cable and connectors. For a compressor or heated jacket you can draw over 5 Amps (the equivalent of the water flow if we continue that line of thinking). This means you need a cable big enough (16/0.2mm), automotive grade so it doesn't vibrate to death and matched to the right fuse (11A cable needs a 10A fuse or smaller). These guys (I'm a customer only, not selling, other suppliers are available etc.) can sell you the right stuff and list the sizes:

VWP - thinwall cable

You also need the right connectors. You would not plumb your bathroom by hammering a nail into the mains water and then clamping a bit of garden hose over the hole, so why people use Scotchlocks is beyond me. These http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal...9ggxHRQATt8OC/

will ruin your day at somepoint as your loom got mashed as you installed it. Use crimp on connectors or solder.

This is my set up: https://b76f9f89-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....attredirects=0

The exception to all this is BMW's with CAN. The whole bike is a computer network so the relay needs to join that or you get a "computer sez no" moment.

Hope that helps

Andy
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  #10  
Old 24 Sep 2012
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You can stay right away from the bikes wiring (leaving it standard and avoiding any CAN Buss problems) by simply running a short wire directly off the battery to a fuse (well insulated), then on to your switch and socket.

Provided you keep that short run from the battery to the fuse extremely safe (the only bit not protected by the fuse) all should be well. When it comes time to sell simply remove it and things are back to standard.
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  #11  
Old 25 Sep 2012
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One point worth mentioning about the 'always-on' connector: if it gets wet inside, it can form a nice little electrical cell in there. I had an Optimate pigtail fitted directly to the battery of my XT, with the connector dangling down next to the battery (for ease of hooking up to charge). Despite the waterproof cover, it got water inside and when I went to look at it next, the terminals had dissolved into blue paste.

After that, I always pulled the fuse from the circuit (new connector, obviously) and only put it back in when I needed the connector. A bit of a hassle, but more durable. A waterproof switch would have been a better idea.
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Old 26 Sep 2012
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If you only want to charge phones and run a gps I think best way would be to tap from a parking light using an inline 2 amp fuse.
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  #13  
Old 13 Oct 2012
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i have one on the dash powered from the battery via a relay switched by the ignition so it goes on/off with the bike. thats for the GPS
i have another hidden under the side of the bike wired direct to the battery so a charger can be left in overnight. this also has a larger fuse so i can use my inflator and kettle in it. i have a small plug that can go in it with a wire that can reach into the topbox to charge up the phone if i need to
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  #14  
Old 20 Nov 2012
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When I installed mine, just got it directly from the battery, but obviously with a good fuse, I didn't wanted to intervene anything in the bike's electronics, worked out great.
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  #15  
Old 20 Dec 2012
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i can understand that magicMANX but if you fit a relay it really doesnt affect the bike.
the switching feed takes milliamps, the tail light +POS is a good place to take it from because it comes on/off with the ignition and its easy to get to.
the main side of the relay goes straight on the battery terminals so you dont disturb anything.

the only question is how to tap into the tail light wire, if you arent confident with a soldering iron and some shrink wrap or dont have the kit, there are many good off the shelf connectors these days.
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