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#1
24 May 2008
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1982 TS185 issues...
Hi all,
I've recently purchased an 82 ts185. Great bike, however I am having a few issues with it. It will rev out with little effort if given a small amount of throttle, however if given full throttle the bike boggs down (ie, 10000rpm to 8k, 6k, 5k and almost stalls). At the same time it blows a phenomenal amount of white smoke. The exhaust has quite a bit of black oil, and it seems to be getting worse. I have adjusted the oil pump correctly and the motor still has good compression (130psi). Spark plug is new and of a higher heat band (5 instead of 7). The carburettor has been rebuilt and the float level and needle/jets are all good. I suspect the r/h crank seal might have gone and so it's sucking oil (and probably a bit of air as well) into the cylinder. The bike is also not charging properly, and the headlight is quite dim but i think the stator plate is another issue in itself. The timing is correctly adjusted, and the woodruff key is also good. It's worth mentioning that the bike had been sitting for approximately 18 months prior to me purchasing it. Any ideas? Could it be that the r/h crank seal is the culprit? Any help would be greatly appreciated 
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#2
24 May 2008
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On the money mate!
Right crank seal blown, so it's sucking the gearbox oil out of the clutch housing. The revving is because it's running away lean with the extra air. The right oil seal is easy to replace with a seal pick, and pretty easy to do without. A seal pick looks a bit like a dentists probe, but a nail pointed and held in vice grips can work. Another good way is to screw a couple of short wood screws into the seal and use two grips to pull the seal straight out. It can easily be done without taking the engine out of the frame. Just lay the bike down on the left side, take off the clutch side cover, primary gear on the end of the crank, and seal retainer and there it is. If the right seal has gone, then the left one may be dicky too. That one is not as easy to diagnose as it won't pull in oil and show up as lotsa smoke. However, if it is leaking, fiddling with the choke will make it run better (but not properly!).
If the seals are starting to go hard, leaving the bike sitting can be the last straw as the lips go hard. It doesn't mean the seal went because it wasn't used, as 18 months more use could have been enough to bugger the seal anyway. Hope this helps. Feel free ask more. Regards Nigel in NZ
__________________
The mouth of a perfectly contented man is filled with  . -- 2200 BC Egyptian inscription
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#3
25 May 2008
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Thanks very much Nigel
 I'll take a look at the seal this weekend. Cheers!
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#4
5 Jun 2008
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Time to split the crankcase?
Hmm...I took off the clutch and primary gear and got behind the bearing retaining plate, but there is no seal - I can only see the bearing so I'd say the seal is on the other side. Time to split the crankcase? I managed to order a new seal too for $11.00 (AUD). I was astounded to find that suzuki still manufactured new parts for a 26 year old two-stroke !!!
 !!!
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#5
15 Jun 2008
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Quote:
http://www.globalsuzuki.com/motorcyc...-A1306-151.pdf It's available here in Mexico and in some other countries price about 2000 USD
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#6
27 Jun 2008
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Woohoo!!!
WOOHOO!!!
Replaced the right hand crank seal and put the bike back together. It ran VERY well and sounded beautiful. Unfortunately I had to write that last sentence in past tense because it died at the end of the street - electrics cut out entirely. Good news is the motor itself had a tonne of power and ran very nicely indeed. I'll take a look at the wiring tomorrow and make sure there is no obvious damage. Out of interest, has anyone ever had any trouble with their stator plate? Just curious because the light has always been very dim and the battery has never charged properly. Cheers guys!
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#7
27 Jun 2008
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Sorry!
Sorry about the duff advice regarding the seal replacement. Of course the bearing is on the outside on the right, because that bearing gets it oil from the gearbox, via the clutch outer gear.
The electrics on these bikes have a enviable reputation for reliability but I have heard of dud stators, and once a dud CDI. I would also check the kill switch and it's wiring. If the battery goes low resistance faulty, it can keep the system voltage very low and make the lights dim too. There is very little in the way of regulation in the electrical system, with the battery an important part to absorb extra current. The motor will start and run fine without a battery, but you run the risk of blowing bulbs without it. Kind regards Nigel in NZ
__________________
The mouth of a perfectly contented man is filled with . -- 2200 BC Egyptian inscription
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#8
28 Jun 2008
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No hard feelings Nigel. I know that you were only trying to help - I appreciate any advice right or wrong
. The bike's running again - turns out the fuel was cutting out because it was low. I'm still slightly suspicious of the stator plate or perhaps the rectifier, because the timing advances noticeably as the bike revs up. My mechanic said that there are very few two-strokes that have spark advance, and he was pretty sure the ts185 wasn't one of them. Does anybody know for sure if the ts185 has spark advance? I also replaced the rectifier with a diode a while back. Again, not sure whether this would be causing any issues? As I said in my last post the bike is running very well, especially when compared to its state before the seal replacement. But something's just not quite right. Feels as though it's running a bit lean, and it is very hard to start when warm. Hopefully it's something simple that I've missed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help guys!!!
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#9
1 Aug 2009
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New TS185
ENGMEX. I live in TX. Had a line on a new 185 (about $1900.00 US) last year but it wasn't timely. Now the site is gone - it was in Chihuahua. I'd be looking for a new one or maybe two of these bikes if available. - JJ
Nigel, thanks for the tips for parts in NZ for my 78. I got them and they work well. Can the TS 185 still be purchased new in NZ?? - JJ
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