BR163, Cuiabá to Santarem

[jkruys]

Anyone "done" this route, or know of any blogs out there (regardless of the mode of transport)? I'm aware of the Brazil gov't websites that list the road conditions (ESTADO DO MATO GROSSO and Condições das Rodovias - 11ª Unidade de Infra-Estrutura Terrestre), but I'm just wondering if this would be a worthwhile journey. I'm on a bicycle, currently in La Paz, and trying to work my way up to French Guyana and minimize boat travel (Santarem to Macapá by boat seems unavoidable though... btw, 4-year-old guidebooks say that there are direct boats for this route without going to Belem, can anyone confirm?).

My blog, North/Central/South America by bicycle, 2006-2010: crazyguyonabike.com: Bicycle Touring: A few years in North, Central & South America, by Jeff Kruys

[jkruys]

Okay, I'm on the BR163 now, near the end of the pavement at Guarantã do Norte. Based on what I've seen so far, just farms and cattle ranches, and heavy, heavy truck traffic, I wouldn't recommend this route to anyone. But the fun part starts here, from the Mato Grosso/Pará border up to Santarem. The cops tell me the road is totally open, but in bad shape. I'll let you know when I get through to the other side! (Could take a couple of weeks... I'm on a bicycle btw.) Blog is here: crazyguyonabike.com: Bicycle Touring: A few years in North, Central & South America, by Jeff Kruys

[Robson Jaborá/SC]

Great friend!
Welcome to Brazil, I'm following you...

Great Website, RR and Pics...

[jkruys]

Thanks Rob! Okay, I've made it through to Santarem. The heat, dust, millions of steep hills, trucks and cars spraying rocks at me, and the stinging ants were not enough to stop me. This was a good "survival test" ride, but I wouldn't highly recommend it to other travellers for any other reason. There just wasn't much interesting along the way. The people were all real friendly though, and there's really no lack of services and small towns. And I hardly saw any mosquitos, but I was careful to camp at the tops of the hills away from the swampy areas. The nicest place along the way is Alter do Chão, just 35km from Santarém. Well, I'm putting up the photos and stories now on the blog. Next I go on the boat to Macapá and then up to French Guiana.

[Vorteks]

Originally Posted by jkruys

Okay, I'm on the BR163 now, near the end of the pavement at Guarantã do Norte. Based on what I've seen so far, just farms and cattle ranches, and heavy, heavy truck traffic, I wouldn't recommend this route to anyone. But the fun part starts here, from the Mato Grosso/Pará border up to Santarem. The cops tell me the road is totally open, but in bad shape. I'll let you know when I get through to the other side! (Could take a couple of weeks... I'm on a bicycle btw.) Blog is here: crazyguyonabike.com: Bicycle Touring: A few years in North, Central & South America, by Jeff Kruys

Very interesting blog for anybody interested in preparing a trip to South America. I took the same road in Pantanal from Bonito to Caceres. It seems that we stopped at the same areas too ; for example, that river area behind the public campground in Bonito. That green transparent water was a true delight in the brazilian heat.

It seems that travelling without an engine can sometimes be a handicap to enjoy the landscape, ups and downs can become the main concern of your travelling day...