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North Africa Topics specific to North Africa and the Sahara down to the 17th parallel (excludes Morocco)
Photo by Helmut Koch, Vivid sky with Northern Lights, Yukon, Canada

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by Helmut Koch,
Camping under Northern Lights,
Yukon, Canada



Trans Sahara Routes.

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  #1  
Old 28 Dec 2011
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WS & North Mauri

Hi, back from a 3 week trip to liberated WS and north Mauri.
I took roughly the following route: Bou Lanour - Inal - Douera - Zoug - Dougaj - Mijek - Tifariti (via north of Bir Mogrein) and back from Buer Tighisit (a border settlement 13 km from Tifariti) - Confluence Point 25N 10W - CP 24N 10W - CP 23N 13W - Dougaj - Zoug - Tmeimichat - Ahmeymim - Nkc. Route lenght 2.500 km - 200 km tarmac, the rest roughly 50/50 between pure off-road and piste driving. I travelled alone, except for the nervewrecking 45 km stretch from Zoug to Tmeimichat where I followed a Mauri nomad returning from cheap fuel shopping. Camped most of the time in the bush well away from any sight of human activity, twice with very forthcoming Mauri gendarmes and a few times with desert folks. Didn't experience any upsetting moments. I does get terribly lonely up in the northeast of Mauri though. Originally planned to follow Washingtons 9degW paralel proposal, but opted for a more leisurely approach (less driving, more lazing around). Luckily, as I returned with no clutch and brakes virtually gone. But all smiles. There were a few brief moments when I though of mr. Belaour et consortes but experiencing this immense expanse of arid land mostly reaffirmed the words of George Carlin: terorism is a minor risk, nothing more. (It is a fantastic bussiness to some of our noble compatriots though.) Didn't take any special precautions except for the usual secrecy about my real intentions, revealing just as much as I needed to reveal. My biggest worry were the many, not-exactly-by-the-book border crossings. All went well. Saharawi military appreciate an invitation, but it is doable without it. Mauri gendarmes are indeed very concerned. I avoided all checkpoints except for Douera (going out) and Tmeimichat (coming back in), which I approached at the time of the evening prayer, when even the surliest guys mellow out a bit. Spent the night with them and took off in the morning. Driving at night in Mauri is formally forbidden but there are always exceptions. The three words to fear most are "pour votre securite". You don't want those as they inevitably mean no "securite" and a lot of complications. Mauri gendarmes tend to be trigger happy these days (I witnessed a rather silly incident at Douera, with shots fired and a lot of shouting). There are rumours of yet another coup in the making. Mauri gendarmes DO communicate between . Sneaking off might not be the best possible attitude ...
The landscape north of Dougaj in WS is stunning. Same goes for the area W of Fderik. I visited the site of a SA 1994 plane crash (Avro Shackleton 1716 forever missing-in-action). The Ahmeymim and areas south of it are splendid too (very biblical - a very easy ride except for some 20-30 km's at the beginning and at the end.
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  #2  
Old 29 Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florence of arabia View Post
I visited the site of a SA 1994 plane crash (Avro Shackleton 1716 forever missing-in-action).

Hello, Florence.

Could you please tell me the directions you took to reach this crash site?
I just saw it should be very close to the Algerian border, close to the village of Aguenit.

Where were you coming from?

Is the road leading there easy for a newbie of dirt roads like me? (been riding Harleys for the last 12 years, now I bought a XT1200Z Super Téneré: I'm not experienced for example in riding on the sand and stuff like this, even though I rode my HD on the gravel roads of the Caucasus).
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Old 29 Dec 2011
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Inspiring stuff Florence, thank you for kindly sharing. Clearly there is no reason not to visit Pelican 16.
(Seems there may be occasion where my old green passport could be more useful than the red).
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Old 29 Dec 2011
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you mean mauri border
the crash site is some 70 north of Aghoueinit
I came from NNE
there is no road leading to the site
not even a piste worth mentioning
sounds like a heavy bike for this kind of terrain

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight of the Holy Graal View Post
Hello, Florence.

Could you please tell me the directions you took to reach this crash site?
I just saw it should be very close to the Algerian border, close to the village of Aguenit.

Where were you coming from?

Is the road leading there easy for a newbie of dirt roads like me? (been riding Harleys for the last 12 years, now I bought a XT1200Z Super Téneré: I'm not experienced for example in riding on the sand and stuff like this, even though I rode my HD on the gravel roads of the Caucasus).
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Old 29 Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by florence of arabia View Post
you mean mauri border
the crash site is some 70 north of Aghoueinit
I came from NNE
there is no road leading to the site
not even a piste worth mentioning
sounds like a heavy bike for this kind of terrain

Thanks for your reply, Florence!

I'll skip this, in this case, even though I'd have wished to visit it.
Next time!
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  #6  
Old 3 Jan 2012
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WPs and some pics

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  #7  
Old 3 Jan 2012
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Amazing trip florence, you're far far braver than me.
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  #8  
Old 3 Jan 2012
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Dear Florence, thanks for sharing info, photos and GDB

Amazing trip, quite brave route IMHO
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  #9  
Old 4 Feb 2012
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" My biggest worry were the many, not-exactly-by-the-book border crossings. All went well. Saharawi military appreciate an invitation, but it is doable without it. Mauri gendarmes are indeed very concerned. I avoided all checkpoints except for Douera (going out) and Tmeimichat (coming back in)"
Do you think that crossing this border anywhere you want is easy without any paperwork? Or you were lucky?
RR.
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  #10  
Old 4 Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roro View Post
Do you think that crossing this border anywhere you want is easy without any paperwork? Or you were lucky?
RR.
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