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Himalayan Holiday : New Delhi ( India ) to Leh.
The Himalayan Adventure
Driving across Manali-Keylong-Sarchu-Rumste-Upshi-Leh
“ Our passes are so high, terrain so harsh, that only the fiercest of enemies and best of friends would want to visit us “ - A Ladakhi Saying
True to the Ladakhi saying, and the many stories of valor, sacrifice, grit and determination I heard about the many wars we fought in the Leh & Ladakh region, a visit to this immensely beautiful and historical part of our country played on my mind ever since 1999. This on a Royal Enfield Motorcycle
As they say, some trips are just meant to be, over a dinner at the Golf Club, Saiba and me decided to do this trip by road on Royal Enfield Classic 500 CCs and prepared a list of friends & family we could take along for this trip. Invites were sent out, Royal Enfields Classic 500 CC – Desert Storm prepared…riding gear purchased and all necessary spares required to this trip were picked up, not to mention a crash course in changing of Royal Enfield Classic 500 clutch plates which was the only expertise lacking.
Sadly, one by one the “ Yes we will come “ for the ride were turning into “may be”, and as July approached, we were the only ones left ! to add to the disappointment, the Doc gave a thumbs down for a bike ride for Saiba owing to her slip disc. We had to take a call…” March on regardless “ as they say in the Army …TGIF..we loaded and left New Delhi for the Farm at Chandigarh ( Base station for Royal India Bikes ) 5 hours we were home, but…there were signs of discomfort on Saiba’s face, do I look up to Munni’s Zandu Balm for relief ??
To ride or not to ride was the thought all through out the night. We had been to Leh & Ladakh twice before, but this was the first time we were doing it by road. What happens if her back packs up ? What happens if the back packs up and the bike breaks down ? What happens if Bike & Saiba are fine and I loose it ? How much could we prepare for a worst case scenario. When you think of it…it happens. Unfortunately or fortunately, the back pain showed signs of reducing. Shall I risk it ?? shall I not ? Finally I had to give up the bike and load up the Scorpio and before any more negatives could hit us, belt up…0500 hrs we were road borne with a target to reach Raison ( home stay ) by lunch time. Parting gift – Our accommodation arranged at the Alfa Mess, reason - we are guests of the Corps Commander ! a surprise arranged for us by the family.
“ A well maintained vehicle never deceives the driver “ – I remembered this quote written at the Indian Naval Transport Pool – INS Kunjali. It was comforting as I knew, my vehicle wont let me down.
We reached Raison in time for the Himalayan Trout, a specialty of the Goan cook at the cottage, but before putting a cat to shame in fish eating, respects to Dr Vijay Malaya for Kingfisher Draft !!
Evening, we took a walk around the orchard, looking at the Kiwis, apples, peaches, plums and wild marijuana weed growing along. The sound of the river flowing 100 meters from the cottage was heavenly.
Here comes the hot stepper ! The house maid came to lay the dining table for dinner, she casually asked what we would like for lunch the next day..NEXT DAY ?? well we are leaving in the morning for Rohtang Pass…HOW was the question ? FYI – Rohtang Pass is shut every Tuesday !! Hallelujah…Blistering Barnacles… now what !
Scramble ! Cross Rohtang pass ( 3,980 Meters – 13,060 Feet ) before 0700 hrs as that’s when the work starts, or wait one whole day in Raison/Manali.
Dinner was packed up and in 20 minutes we were on our way to Rohtang 2030 being departure time, we expected to reach Rohtang pass by 2230 Hrs, sleep at Rohtang and then leave for Keeylong at 0500 hrs the next day…simble
Map my India – SUCKS !! as we crossed Manali, the sexy angle voice from GPS, guided us to an Army Camp which also was a dead end. After identifying ourselves, the sentry at the gate asked us to reverse and get going. The turn for Mari ( Maddi ) was 2 kms away.
We reversed and started the climb in mild fog which slowly began to intensify and get thicker. Ten minutes into the drive up…every fog light was on, as visibility was down to 1 meter. The next two hours were the test of my driving ability, my judgment, grit and composure as we couldn’t see the terrain around, just the white line along the roads which would disappear, reappear and disappear again. Saiba watching left and me right, we continued the climb till we saw a Bolero Pick up truck parked in the middle of the road with his blinkers on.
I stopped to ask him, why he has stopped, quick came the answer, I don’t have HELLA LAMPS like you…so if you lead, I shall follow…Maddi is just here !! His words were motivating as made me feel like a Platoon leader ! Foolishly, I lead only to know that he was leading me to even thicker fog and completely savaged roads. Maddi was no where in sight..for the first 40 minutes as we crawled at 10 kmph and suddenly from nowhere came a Tempo Traveler with lights flickering and as he passed us, we saw the fear on the face of the driver, not to mention the 20 heads that popped out to ask us if road is open. That when we realized that something was amiss.
Ahoy ! We saw the first milestone that read Maddi 12 kms and to add to the humor, BRO Boards – Be Gentle on my curves !!
The next 12 kms were the longest 12 kms of my life, passing through sludge, rock laden road, knee deep pot holes, roads that resembled chocolate pudding & pie…..All in the valley of death rode the 600 !! ( Rohtang Pass is incidentally known as the valley of death ) – Thank you Lord Tennyson
We managed to reach Maddi at 0130 Hrs, pulled over and jumped out or I would have peed in my pants. Maddi was like an abandoned village, not even a dog to bark at you. After securing the hand brakes, lugs at the wheels, pushed back the seats and decided to take a nap to leave Maddi in the morning.
We were being pelted by the rain and it seemed like a 1000 stones were falling on us, and yes it was hail. God, what if the hail breaks the windshield ! Fortunately after an hour the rail bashing stopped. Fatigued by the drive, we shut our eyes and tried to catch some needed sleep.
After a nap of an hour, was woken up by lights coming overhead which seemed like those of a Jet landing in fog, the sky would light up and lights would disappear and this would go on..about a few minutes later, had a convoy of vehicles passing us. I realized that what I assumed to be jet planes, were actually these vehicles coming down Rohtang pass. I realized at what height we were, and wondered from what height were these vehicles coming down from
I got off, flagged down a Tata Truck and asked if road to Rohtang was open and safe to drive. Sure said he, you will be the only vehicle to cross pass up. So be it, we took our biological breaks and set out to cover then next 30 kms to Rohtang Pass. Luckily, the fog had cleared out but rain had set in, splashing through the sludge and the slightly better roads, Rode the 600…passing parked trucks…through the valley of death.
Finally at around 0330 hrs we were pleased to see the Blue Board saying – Welcome to Rohtang Pass. More pleased to see stalls, huts, Cars & SUVs and the black dog I hadn’t heard since we left.
Pulled over and decided to nap it out till the break of dawn. A few minutes into the nap, we heard a knock on the window, are you going to Keeylong ? came the question. A Tata Sumo packed with people was standing next to us. On enquiring further, was told that the fella who boosted my ego, told the Sumo driver at the tea break in Rohtang that Hella of a lights !! Once again, I was asked to lead… promptly we agreed as we could reach Keeylong earlier and nap better.
The climb down started and we realized the need to shut Rohtang every Tuesday, I my books, they should shut it every alternate day to carry on repairs and clear the landslides. Slowly like a sure footed goat, we came down the road, through winding turns and steep descents, the sounds of water falls and occasionally a white stream of froth & foam along side us at Gramphu ( 3,200 Meters – 10,500 Feet )
0500 Hrs, we reached a small village called Kokhsar ( 3,200 Meters – 10,500 feet ) and stopped for some warm tea ( Chai ). The whole village was asleep but this little shop who was serving tea to many SUMOs that pass by loaded with people. While talking to the Sumo driver who gave the second boost to my ego, was told that he ferries labor for Border Roads Organization. Leaves Manali late night/early morning and reaches Leh by 1700 hrs the same day, non-stop. For my good deed of leading him down as his lights were not functional, he told us that tea was on the house as tea vendor was his friend. While we were touched by his gesture, we paid and filled up our flask with more tea.
As dawn set in, we got the first glimpse of the mighty Himalayas, their character, the terrain simply defying and to add to the excitement, convoys after convoys of Army trucks and Arty Guns parked along. Jawans doing their morning PT and drills, away from their homes and loved ones, in a hostile terrain, lonely surroundings yet so motivated, yet smiling and waving out to us, JCO Saab at the check post even offered us tea and some valuable advise to be driving safe and slowly, telling us that don’t worry, we stand guard, for your tomorrow we give our today !!
Hitler once asked Romell, what were the things he needed to win the war and capture the world. German weapons, brains of a British Officer and the Courage of an Indian Army Jawan was his answer !!
0700 Hrs, we reached Tandi ( 2,570 meters - 8,430 Feet ) which apparently had the last fuel station before Leh where we fueled up the tanks and the 20 Liter Jerry Can. On driving further, we found out that there is a make-shift fuel station 73 kms from Tandi.
PEEP PEEP DON’T SLEEP, how true as my eyes were closing due to fatigue and lack of sleep, somehow we reached Keeylong ( 3,080 meters – 10,100 Feet ), checked into Dekyid Hotel. The room was good for the price, and after devouring the breakfast, we popped the altitude sickness medicine – DIAMOX which we were to take last night and crashed out completely. Diamox is to be take 12 to 24 hours before departing for Rohtang, and a glass of warm water every 2 hours.
We had the option of driving additional 12 odd kms and staying at Jispa which was more happening and had a better choice of hotels and shops.
Technically, this was Day I of the trip, and Saiba’s back had held up well. The bumps and the occasional jump, did give her discomfort, but since the seat was padded with extra cushions and hot water bottle, she was fine.
Day II
We had planned to stay at Sarchu ( 4,300 Meters – 14,100 feet ) also known as the Puke point, but as we were passing Darcha ( 3,360 Meters – 11,020 Feet ) we got a whiff of “ altitude sickness “ and a mild headache.
Immediately we took a “ drag “ from the oxygen cans and were ready to take on ZingZingbar ( 4,270 Meters – 14,010 Feet ) After polishing off a can of baked beans and sardines, we drove on higher to Baralacha La ( 5,030 Meters – 16,500 feet ) surprisingly, we got no symptoms of Altitude sickness or AMS ( Acute Mountain Sickness ) Diamox had worked.
We made a pit stop at Sarchu where I re-fueled the Scorpio, checked belts, brakes, oil etc, it was 1110 Hrs, and we took a call to move on to Leh as the clouds were building up and it was getting cold with winds picking up. We drove barely 10 kms and the check post at Sarchu who were expecting us also advised us to move since the BRO was to under take some repair work which would stall traffic at the Gata Loops ( 4,166 Meters - 13,750 Feet ) for some time.
Gata loops were just amazing, we passed by many Royal Enfield bikes, and were happy to help out a Royal Enfield Classic 350 CC that had stalled as the air filter got chocked with dust & oil that had got into the chamber. Moral of the story, never over ride the oil level mark. Since we were carrying spares sufficient to make another bike, we lent the spare air filter to the biker.
We met a biker with a broken gear lever, something extremely unlucky and unfortunate.
After crossing the Nakeela Pass and Lachulung La Pass we reached Pang ( 4,600 meters – 15,100 feet ) A throbbing head ache was setting in, while Saiba sat there taking puffs of oxygen from the can and humming away. We are still 185 kms from Leh and the mother of all the passes is yet to come, Tanglang La Pass ( 5,360 meters – 17,585 feet ) 1430 Hrs on the clock.
I refueled once again, just to comfort myself of a full tank and re-confirm that all is well. We encountered the worst roads on this stretch actually no roads till we reached the More Plains ( 4,700 meters – 15,400 feet ) where roads like the F1 track greeted us. That was probably the first time in the day, I d rather say, from the time we left Manali, we hit the top gear and tons of dust got blown off from the vehicle. 20 odd kms later, we were in a desert where we had to either follow a trail of dust, or make our own road.
The vehicle was jamming and skidding in the sand, dust getting in despite the windows shut, and the scenario we were dreading…..light on the panel glowing, indicating that the vehicle has a problem, few minutes later, another light glows, this one familiar, water in the fuel !! Limping like a DC 3 – Dakota hit by anti-aircraft fire, we some how managed to cross the dirt track and start the climb to Tanglang La..i knew for a fact, once we cross this, we are home as its down hill after the pass.
The DC3-Dakota was gasping for air, a 2200 CC engine behaving like a Maruti 800, loss of power, brakes not functioning, lights on the panel glowing and to add to the scare, workers from the BRO, burnt and dark tanned skins, blood shot eyes ….stoping us for water.
I overtook every vehicle, too bad for them if they didn’t like me honking, but I just had to clear the pass, every turn and bend the vehicle would flutter….finally after about and hour of putting the Mighty Muscular Scorpio to its test, I almost made an announcement, we have commenced descent, passengers fasten your f $%^&* seat belts, cabin crew prepare for landing !! so steep was the descend that ears got blocked.
My Scorpio had passed the test to be re-named as the “ Bheeshma “ T-90, Indian Army’s main battle tank, it didn’t fail us even once.
As we passed Upshi ( 3541 meters – 11,617 feet ) a few kms down, we saw a board which said Tibet – Turn Right …Right !!
At Karu, we were greeted by a board, Welcome to the Hill Development Council of Leh ! my head with throbbing with a headache, I didn’t mind it as we were in Leh and Hotel Shambha La was 21 kms
Thus was accomplished the first leg of the Himalayan Tour
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