Today I came into the south western end of the Cirque de Jaffar piste by tarmac from the N13 road near Timnay 4x4 Centre with the intention of riding north east along the cirque piste back to Midelt.

As I came to the junction (N32 31.780 W4 59.480) some guy tried to wave me down but I wanted to carry on a bit further on tarmac to take some pics of Jbel Ayachi which is currently snow covered. He started to run alongside me, so I accelerated and in my mirror I saw him go headlong on the ground. With what I now know I am guessing he made a lunge for the roll bag behind me just as I opened the throttle.

He was obviously still going to be around when I came back so I followed a truck to hide the sound of my engine, but the entrance to the piste has changed and I was slow to work it out, so he caught up with me. Before I knew it the zip to my tankbag side pocket was open and stuff fell on the ground. Slow on the uptake I thought it was a coincidence, stopped to pick the stuff up and he's on the other side of the bike opening the other side pocket, which was empty. I was incensed and told me to get away from the bike and as I started off he went for the roll bag behind me with such a violent movement that he pulled the bike over. I managed to get the Tenere upright, no mean feat with all the stuff I was carrying.

The guy was aged late twenties or early thirties with what I can only describe as a long face in a perpetual scowl. Then another guy appeared, better dressed in a black leather-look jacket. It was obvious they meant no good and demanded cigarettes. I said no, then they demanded "a dirham". There was no way these guys were going to be happy with a ciggy and a dirham, and giving them anything would make things worse, so I stood my ground.

One of the items that had been in my tank bag pocket that was now in my hand was my small canister of pepper spray. The second guy realised what it was and shouted a warning to the guy with the long face. The second guy then backed off for the remainder of the encounter which makes me wonder a bit--how did he know what it was?

Several times I tried to make a departure but I really needed three hands both start the bike and to stay protected by the spray can. The guy was expert at making quick darting movements to try to open the zip pockets on my trousers and jacket, and was constantly moving around trying to get into my blind spot (I was on the bike). When I started threatening with the spray can he picked up a big rock and made throwing gestures. So I picked up a rock and hit my knee, elbow and shoulder armour hard with it to demonstrate that I wasn't too fazed with rocks. I still had my helmet on otherwise it might have been a different story.

It was ending up as a mexican standoff. I got my camera out which really worried both of them as of course this would enable them to be tracked down by the Gendarmerie Royal, assuming of course, they didn't manage to nick the camera from me. But try as I might, I couldn't get a clear shot as they kept turning away.

Then the guy got too close to the bike again and I transfered the spray into my hand nearest him and gave him a blast. The effect was instantaneous, even though the stream of liquid was off target and I missed his eyes, just getting his lower face. The second guy seems to be getting worried by now and kept suggested they leave.

I'm now not at all worried. They can't touch me whilst I have the spray and this being Morocco someone will be along shortly. And sure enough, a few minutes later down the piste comes a logging truck. The two guys run off and I wave the truck to stop, shouting "voleurs", and pointing to where the villains went. The four guys in the truck gave chase and I decide this is the time to leave.

Riding along the piste, I did think of turning back on foot with some tyre irons and replaying the encounter, but decided leaving the bike was a bad idea.

What did I learn from this?
1. Getting the pepper spray was a damn good idea.
2. Don't let the villains know you have it, then you can get close
3. Have a practice squirt first so you know if it pulls to one side

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"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)