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Does anyone have wheel load ratings for the following:
STL72148U45: Disco Steel Wheels
ANR5593 / ANR4583: Nato Steel (Wolf) Wheels - different P/N for tubed and tubeless.
By way of background, I'm wanting to slightly increase the track on my CT 110, and am already running the Disco steel wheels. I like the ZU rims with a 1400kg load rating, but I'm not sure of the other wheel ratings for comparison.
Google didn't help. I thought I had this info filed away somewhere, I probably do but I've no idea where it is...
Can't lay my hands on the load ratings, but disco rims are fairly low rating, and as far as I'm aware are not rated highly enough for use on a 110??.
Wolf rims are the strongest rims, made of very thick steel, but also quite (very!) heavy.
Not a very technical response, but hope it helps!
Hi. Yes, it's like eightpot says!
The Disco wheels are not very strong (for what you need to do). I think they weigh about 13kg each.
The wolf rims are VERY strong and weigh about 16 or 17 kg each.
... about to enjoy a nice cup of hot chocolate, as it's blinking freezing here today!
I had a feeling that the Disco steel wheels shouldn't be on the 110 - but I suppose as it's been in a warehouse for the last 3 years it's low risk!
The only issue I have with the Wolf wheels (I have a set each on my 2 90s) it that they are only 6.5" wide which limits my tyre selection a little. I prefer a wider tyre (which in turn means a wider wheel), as the roof tent makes it a bit top-heavy and it handles better with the wider tyres.
No, I'm not getting rid of the roof tent!
Maybe spacers? I've had no experience with them, but it yet another component. That's why I like the ZU Alloys (at least on paper), as they have a high load rating, are 7" wide and have a small off-set.
I put some modulars on mine not long ago, not my preferred choice as I really wanted Wolfs, but I got a bargain on a set of wheels/tyres.
They have a good offset and will take a 265 easily - I've heard bad things about thier strength but it seems it's also down to who manufactured them. They did just fine in Libya, and I gave them every opportunity to bend!
A mate of mine has put spacers on his 110 and he's very happy with it - I thought they might put too much strain on bearings etc but he also survived the Libyan battering with no probs - he was running two roof tents and carrying a LOT of weight. Dropped into a lot of hidden gullies at high speed sending jam, and children everywhere but no probs with the wheels or suspension (running modulars as well).
Next opportunity I get though I'll get some wolfs, modulars are a teeny bit chavy for me
Incidentally, my mate was a little unhappy with the handling on pistes etc, he's got a scrapiron HD suspension set up, anti roll bars and red polys etc, but still found it too wayward - he's just put a twin rear shock set up on the back and reckons it's made a massive difference and makes it handle a lot better.
Hi Guys my mate ran a disco with wheel spacers and he had a problem when one of them kept coming loose. (Very nasty knocking noise) Apparently he was using non-genuine wheel nuts to hold them in place, and the taper and actual size (across flats) was very slightly different to original equipment, and didn,t seat properly. They have been fine since we fitted genuine nuts.
I ran 265 BFG MT on Wolf Rims for a couple of years with zero problems. If anything it stops the vulnerable sidewall bulging out. Spacers I considered on my HZJ78 and even have a set knocking around, but decided I don't need any more stuff flung up the sides of the car by the tyres!
The ZU Rims (also maybe called Mach 5???) do look fantastic, but wait until some guy sets about them with a big hammer....?
This could be big. The tensile strength of the bolt that holds the window winder knob on is a known quantity, as is the part number of every exhaust valve Land Rover ever made. The source of the pigment for the paint on the volt meter of a S11a is common knowledge, but as yet, nobody knows how many bags of sugar it will take to fold a disco wheel in half.
DieselJim, thanks for the x-post, that's interesting. I've not hung-out on the lr4x4 forums before, I'll be sure to take a look around.
2200kg is far more than I expected, and way over the 1400kg load rating of the ZU Rims. That really does answer my original question as I wanted to be able to compare the ZU rims against the others.
While they certainly meet my load requirement they have the problem of not being off-set and only being 6.5" wide. I get your point about the spacers, but man, how can I take the advice of a man with no doors?
sv130, I'm resisting the temptation to make a joke about "genuine nuts".
Now eightpot, you're just being silly. It depends if the sugar is in a metric bag or not...
Of course, now I don't know whether to get Wolf rims with spacers or try the ZU rims... At least I know I have to ditch the Disco steelies.
Just as a point of personal choice, I would never choose an alloy wheel for overlanding across the sahara, regardless of the wheels load rating. Alloy wheels can get cracked and chipped from unplanned contact with rocks. A steel wheel (suitably rated) can suffer all manner of abuse and still be serviceable. If you did bend a steel rim (not likely with a Wolf), it can be beaten straight, welded etc.
An alloy wheel will be completely trashed if you have a blow out and the rim makes contact with the ground. A suitable steel wheel will survive fine.
Alloy wheels can have their bead seats badly damaged by ham fisted attempts at tyre changing too, which can result in an inability to hold air. It is also worth remembering that due to the internal shape of alloy wheels, they are not designed to take inner tubes - though it may be necessary in an emergency (most manufacturers state that tubes must NOT be fitted to alloy wheels).
All steel wheels, whether designed as 'tubeless' or 'tube type' are suitable for the use of innertubes.
You could always do what i did on my 90 (with disco steel wheels).... grind out the weld, knock out the center piece and the re-weld it at the offset of your desire.
You're in the US Nick? dont know how far you are from Craig & Shane at Rover Hybrids, but they did the offset job on some wolf rims, and damn fine they look too:
only trouble, if you're out in the cuds and sack one irrepairably, then you might be scuppered.... if you have a "standard" rim, you can usually pick up another "standard" rim to replace it, and still be able to drive in a straight line. if you damage a wheel spacer, you can always remove the other 3 and be back to factory spec again, maybe not as good looking, but at least still drivable.
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