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| Kawasaki Kawasaki Tech Forum - For Questions specific and of interest to Kawasaki riders only. Questions comparing which bike is best etc go in the "Which Bike" forum. |
We've had a code update on the HUBB that should fix any issues with the new right hand column. If the HUBB still "looks funny" please force a refresh to get the latest code update. (Hold down the shift OR ctrl key, and click the refresh button on your browser, OR Ctrl R, OR on Macs, Command R). If you still have a problem please post it here.
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#1
4 Mar 2010
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KLE500 Counter-Sprockets
Crikey those KLE counter sprockets are done up tight from the factory. I went to change my chain & sprockets tonight and needed a 5 foot piece of pipe to slip over my socket wrench to give me enough torque to undo the counter-sprocket nut once I opened up the locking washer. It let go with a massive crack, so much so I thought I had snapped my socket drive. Anyway I just wondered if any other KLE owners have experienced similar problems?
JQ 
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#2
4 Mar 2010
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cant say that I have but have read in the pages here somewhere that it is a little bit tight....
You dropping a tooth?
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#3
5 Mar 2010
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'ken oath they are tight - only need to do it the first time though, which is good...
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#4
5 Mar 2010
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Lone Star,
I've hit 40ks and the the counter sprocket is quite hook shaped in the teeth. Have had the new chain & sprockets on stand-by for a while now but was waiting to wear out my rear Michelin Sirac before I changed out the drive train. my new rear tyre is a Metzler Enduro 3 which is way chunkier in tread pattern than the Michelin. This KLE goes off-road regularly so it will be interesting to see how the Metzler performs? JQ
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#5
5 Mar 2010
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Pretty common to have that "crack" sound. I was afraid perhaps you were trying to remove the nut with the Lock tab washer still in place. Not good!
Be sure to buy a new lock washer for re-installation. You can use old one but new one is better. (and cheap) Next time you encounter a big nut or bolt like this try the following to make it break loose easier: 1. Soak with WD40 or other penetrating oil. Let sit a couple days. 2. Heat lightly and gradually. Not too hot as you have a rubber seal in there, but some heat is OK. 3. Strike sharply with hammer .... very carefully onto nut, not the shaft. Not too hard, just a few firm shots. All these things can ease the breaking of a stubborn high torque nut. Next time, keep an eye on your chain and sprockets for wear. To give much longer chain life to your new chain I recommend replacing your countershaft sprocket at about 10K to 12K miles irregardless of how you think it looks. Just change it. Do it sooner if doing a lot of mud riding. A worn countershaft sprocket wears the chain faster than anything else. Use stock Kawasaki OEM sprockets, not BS aftermarket crap. (JT and AFAM are not too bad, but stock is still better value) Keep chain clean and lightly oiled. No oil needed when in dirt. But after dirt riding, clean and re-oil for street riding. Good luck! 
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